Fujifilm Instax mini Link 3: two-minute review

One could spend hours pondering why people might want to make small instant prints out of their smartphone snaps – photos they could easily share with each other via WhatsApp or post on Instagram. Personally, I think it’s all about the fun, tactility and immediacy that can be derived from occasionally ‘going analogue’ in this increasingly digital world in which we live. Vive la difference, and all that.

 Fujifilm’s Instax mini Link 3 is the latest in the company’s line of portable battery-powered printers which, after linking up with a smartphone or tablet via Bluetooth, can spit out fast-developing instant photos. These photos, which are roughly the size of a credit card, can be given to friends and family, pinned on your corkboard or stuck on your fridge door or slipped in your wallet to look at whenever you like. It’s a simple device that does what it’s supposed to and does it well.

I’ll talk about the prints themselves first. This won’t be news to anyone who’s used Instax mini film before, but these Polaroid-style photos look really impressive, with beautifully rich and vivid colours and an attractive glossy finish. That’s once they develop, of course: you’re looking at about three minutes in total from the time you starting printing until the finished photo is fully developed. Detail is pretty sharp, but the small print size puts a limit on that. The prints are hardy too: don’t expect them to fade quickly or fall to bits in your wallet.

They are also fairly expensive by portable printer standards however, with a standard 20-pack costing around $20/£15, which means about $1 or 75p a per print. Some rival printers using Zink or dye-sublimation methods offer a smaller per-print cost. I would say the Instax mini photos are better looking and more durable than Zink prints at least.

Part of the selling point with the mini Link 3 is the added functionality that comes from the mini Link companion app, and to be clear the printer is essentially useless without a smartphone to pair it with. The app offers light editing tools and a range of frames, effects and other adornments with which to customise and personalise your photos. These are all a bit cheesy and basic (I suspect few graphic design aficionados will be impressed) but if the point is to have fun, they hit the spot.

You can import photos from your camera roll or take new shots from within the app. In fact, the app’s Instax camera mode turns the printer itself into a Bluetooth remote control, allowing you to set your phone up and take a shot from afar by pressing the printer’s function button.

The app also features an augmented reality (AR) mode that lets you take photos on your phone complete with added-in objects, but to be honest I quickly gave up trying to use it due to the confusing setup and underwhelming effects. With the rest of the app functions being straightforward and easy to immediately grasp, this one feels out of place; I doubt it’ll prove popular with users.

The mini Link 3 printer itself is an attractive object with its curvy lines, ridged surfaces and three-LED lighting system, which pulses and glows different colours depending on what you’re doing; it usually functions as a battery life indicator. There are three colour finishes available, too: Sage Green, Rose Pink and the Clay White model I was sent to review.

The mini Link 3 is lightweight and compact enough to slip into a large jacket pocket. I wouldn’t have any qualms about tossing it into a backpack either. The plastic body is sturdy and there are few buttons or moving parts that could get damaged: just one button for power, one function button that fulfils a number of functions (such as initiating Bluetooth pairing), a small sliding button to open the rear door when you need to load in a new film cartridge and a tiny flap that opens up to reveal the USB-C port used for recharging the internal lithium ion battery.

Battery life is excellent. Fujifilm claims you can print around 100 shots from a full charge and while I haven’t personally tested that, being sent only three 10-shot cartridges of Instax mini film with my review sample, I didn’t need reach for the included USB-A to USB-C recharging cable once during my week with the printer (note that there’s no AC adapter in the box). If you do deplete the battery, you can fully recharge it in about two hours.

Fujifilm Instax mini Link 3: also consider

Should I buy the Fujifilm Instax mini Link 3?

Buy it if...

Don't buy it if...

How I tested the Fujifilm Instax mini Link 3

• One week of use
• Tested with iPhone 13

I spent a week using the mini Link 3 in conjunction with my iPhone 13, testing each mode of the mini Link companion app with both freshly taken photos and older images from the smartphone’s camera roll. I also took the printer out ‘in the field’ with me, taking advantage of its battery and compact size to use it on a night out with friends.

First reviewed September 2024

Two-minute review

I grew up being photographed with, and taking photographs with, Polaroid cameras, which were pretty much standard fare for family photography in the 1970s, 80s and 90s. The Polaroid Go 2 is based on the Polaroid 1000 Land Camera in terms of aesthetics, but with a modernized and miniaturized design. Due to its small size, basic-but-fun features and ease of use, it's a contender for one of the best film cameras you can buy.

The last Polaroid camera I used and reviewed before the Go 2 was the Polaroid z340, which was released back in 2011. This was a digital camera that used a Zink printing system to produce prints with a printed rebate alongside digital image files, and while it was innovative, it lacked the charm and the quality of traditional analog Polaroid prints. The Go 2 rectifies this, taking us back to what makes Polaroid cameras so appealing: true instant analog photography.

The Polaroid Go 2 is available in multiple kits alongside accessories, with the standalone camera costing $80 / £80 / AU$90. You ultimately need some film to get started, so the Starter Set that includes the camera and a Film Double Pack (16 exposures) is potentially a better starting point, and costs $100 / £95 / AU$110. A Film Double Pack X2 (32 exposures) will set you back $40 / £20 / AU$50, and this is available with traditional white or stylish black rebates.

Polaroid Go 2: design

The Go 2 is much smaller than the Polaroid 100 Land Camera it takes its design cues from, being palm-sized but with a much more rounded finish. It's also available in black, white, blue, and red, so you can select the color you prefer. For me, the black finish looks best, contrasting nicely with the red shutter button and the Polaroid rainbow.

The camera is made using 30% recycled polycarbonate and ABS plastics, and the build quality feels good. There is some movement of the film door against its lock on the bottom of the camera when you're holding it, but this doesn’t cause any issues. Loading the camera is incredibly easy, especially if you've used instant cameras in the past; if you haven't, labelled film packs and the quick-start guide will guide you through the process.

The viewfinder is surprisingly reliable despite parallax error, which is the difference between what you see through the viewfinder and what the adjacent lens captures. One useful feature of the viewfinder is that the front is mirrored, so you can use it to help compose selfies, which can be taken using either the shutter button or the self-timer.

The camera uses an internal rechargeable battery that's charged via USB-C. Battery life is good, and the remaining charge is indicated by green, orange and red on the LED that shows the camera is switched on. The only downside here is that the battery is built-in, so you can't change or replace it, although this is only likely to be an issue after years of use.

Polaroid Go 2: performance

The Go 2 couldn’t be easier to use; it's a point-and-shoot camera with automatic exposure and a fixed-focus lens. The lens is made of polycarbonate resin, and produces an equivalent focal length of 51.1mm, which is perfect for this type of camera. The minimum focusing distance is 1.5ft / 45cm, so the Go 2 isn’t at all suited to close-up photography, unfortunately.

The shutter speed is automatically set between 1/300 sec and 1 sec, while the aperture is adjusted between f/9 and f/42. Exposure overall isn’t bad, but I found that images erred slightly towards underexposure, and the camera performs much better in brighter conditions than in low light. There is a flash that helps in low light, but it's not powerful, so its effectiveness is limited. Still, it's better to have than not.

Image quality isn’t quite what I remember of Polaroid cameras, lacking the clarity and color balance I can recall. Sure, it was never perfect from point-and-shoot Polaroid cameras, but it was better. Development time is also advertised as 10-15 minutes, which does appear correct, and this is much longer than Polaroid film of old, which only took a few minutes to develop. I suspect that the chemicals have been changed since then, potentially using a more environmentally friendly and/or less costly formula.

This wait time takes away some of the magical immediacy of using an instant camera, but at the same time it's ultimately not a problem. Prints are 2.62 x 2.12 inches / 66.6 x 53.9mm with a 1.85 x 1.81-inch / 47 x 46mm image area; the small print size is comparable to that of Fujifilm's Instax Mini prints, albeit with Polaroid's square format rather than Fujifilm's rectangular image area.

Prints also typically exhibit more color casts and haziness than I remember, producing a more retro look and feel than Polaroid film from even as late as the early noughties. This isn’t a bad thing though; it certainly taps into the popularity of retro photography effects these days, and I like it.

Two features of the camera that stand out are the self-timer and the ability to capture double exposures. These are activated using specific presses of the flash button, and for double exposures, you're shown a 1 and 2 on the shot remaining screen so you know which shot you're taking. The flash is also activated by default, so if you don’t want or need flash you have to switch it off each time you switch the camera on.

Should I buy the Polaroid Go 2?

Buy it if...

Don't buy it if...

How I tested the Polaroid Go 2 instant camera

I tested the Polaroid Go 2 Instant Camera over several days, using it to capture a range of subjects in different lighting conditions. I also tested the few features that the camera has to offer, which are basic, but fun and useful nonetheless.

Since exposure is fully automatic, except for being able to switch the flash on or off, all testing was a point-and-shoot affair, but that's exactly what basic Polaroid cameras are used for – instantaneous simplicity. Having somewhere to safely store exposed prints was a necessity, however.

Having used both Polaroid and Fujifilm Instax cameras in the past, using the Go 2 was as intuitive as I'd hoped, and the small size and light weight of the camera made it much easier to carry around than full-size instant cameras.

First reviewed August 2024

Fujifilm Instax Wide 400: One-minute review

The Fujifilm Instax Wide 400 is one of the best instant cameras for casual photographers who like the appeal of wider prints. It's ideal for landscape photographers and camping trips especially, with the wider format able to capture much more in the frame than other popular Instax Mini cameras, although be prepared to compromise when it comes to portraits. 

Unlike other Instax cameras the Wide 400 doesn't have a built-in selfie mirror, and instead comes with a fiddly mirror attachment that doubles up as a macro lens. This can be clipped onto the Wide 400's lens when you want to take a selfie or portrait of a subject, or anything that's roughly 40-50cm away from the end of the lens. 

During testing, I found the focusing process takes a bit of getting used to, but once you grasp it, and with the help of the enhanced viewfinder and target marker, it can capture pretty sharp shots. The biggest pain points with the Instax Wide 400 are the design and lack of features. Not much has been tweaked from the Wide 300 model other than the addition of the self-timer (which is admittedly very handy) and enhanced viewfinder, but otherwise, it has no modern digital elements like the Instax EVO or Mini 99. 

As for the design, the Wide 400 can withstand a lot thanks to its rugged and textured build, and it's very grippy too. With that said, it does feel larger and heavier than necessary, and what was Instax thinking with that color? I think it's one of the worst-looking instant cameras on the market (sorry Instax), and frankly I felt a little embarrassed to shoot with it in public. However, if you can get past the basic features and 'army-green' finish, it could be a worthwhile addition to your analog camera collection, and the print quality is good. 

Fujifilm Instax Wide 400: Price and availability

The Fujifilm Instax Wide 400 is available for $149.99 / £129.99 / AU$229.99, which I think is a fair price compared with other Instax models. The Instax Square SQ40 retails at the same price, and other models are only marginally more affordable with similar features – you can check out more options in our best Instax Mini prices round-up .

However, a wide-format competitor such as the Lomography Lomo'Instant Wide (priced at $169 /£149) might offer more for your money in terms of creative control, with options for multiple exposure and optional flash – and it takes Instax Wide film too. There's also the retro Instax 500AF to consider if you can find one, which Redditers seem to be raving about lately. 

Fujifilm Instax Wide 400: design

• Better looking than the Wide 300
• Very rugged and sturdy build 
• What's with the green? 

The Instax Wide 400 might not be the prettiest Instax on the market, but the design has certainly improved since the Wide 300 model, with the sticky-out viewfinder ditched in favor of a more appealing and clean-cut build. The body is still made from a smooth plastic, which doesn't help it fit in very well among its more premium-looking Instax cousins, and while the textures around the lens barrel and battery compartment are great for grip, I think it makes the camera look a little juvenile. 

As for the general design, the Instax Wide 400 is rugged, heavy, and bulky. It's not until you get this camera in your hands and lay eyes on it that you realize just how big and wide it is. I would say that my hands are medium-sized, so I'm not sure if the hands-on images in this review are doing it justice. Or maybe it's because I'm used to handling my Instax Mini 40 and Mini 99 models that this camera feels so abnormally large to me. 

There's no built-in selfie mirror but, like the Instax Wide 300, the Instax Wide 400 comes with a clip-on macro lens attachment that has a mirror poking out of the side. With this camera being so large I don't think it would have taken much to include a built-in selfie mirror on the lens itself, but it's better to have one as an accessory than not at all. 

Speaking of accessories, there's also a new angle-adjustment accessory that comes with the Wide 400. This comprises two black plastic wedges of different sizes on a separate strap (i.e., not the main camera strap) which you can place under the camera to tilt it upwards when it’s placed on a surface for selfies or group shots.. This worked quite well when I tested it, and it's a clever method that saves you having to look for handy objects on which to prop the camera.

Possibly my biggest gripe with the design of the Instax Wide 400 is that it's only available in a single color option, at least for now – and what was Instax thinking with that awful green shade? It's worth mentioning that a lot of the promotional images make this camera appear more teal, but in reality it's green, and a slightly dull 'army green' at that. Yet, despite the green finish, the Instax Wide 400 could also pass as a kid's camera from a distance. 

I've never been self-conscious walking around with a camera before, but the Wide 400 is so large and unappealing that it draws a lot of attention to itself, and to whoever's holding it, and I felt a little embarrassed taking it out to my local seaside town during testing. I guess if you think of the Wide 400 as a camera that's intended for outdoorsy types, landscape photographers, and camping trips, then the green color choice makes a bit more sense than say, bright pink. 

Fujifilm Instax Wide 400: Performance

• Can capture very sharp shots when used correctly 
• Selfies are tricky (unless you have long arms)
• The self-timer is the perfect feature for group photos
• Lacks other modern features 

I thoroughly enjoyed my time testing the new Instax Wide 400 camera, and I certainly get the appeal of wider-format film (which is double the width of two Instax Mini prints) when it comes to landscape photography and capturing group selfies. The camera takes really nice-looking photos in normal mode, as well as in landscape mode, and you can expect the usual Instax quality in the prints produced. 

However, I found that using this camera for self-portraits and with close-up subjects is where its performance faltered. The included clip-on lens attachment shortens the focus range of the camera to 40-50cm, and is intended for taking photos of closer subjects as well as self-portraits at arm’s length. With this in mind, I used my dog Tilly as my test subject for a few shots, and found that it was very hit-and-miss with the focus (see the sample images below).

I tried to capture the same shot a few times by switching up the distance between me and Tilly, while using the upgraded viewfinder and target spot to keep her center frame. It was difficult to estimate the distance between myself and Tilly, and I took a photo in normal mode without the lens attachment for comparison, but all that was in focus was the background behind her. In short: when used correctly, the camera plus lens attachment can produce very sharp results, but it will take some experimentation, and a fair few failed prints, before you get the hang of it. 

As for selfies, these was again very tricky to master using the selfie mirror and close-up lens attachment. I also found during testing that my arms just weren't long enough to hold the camera in front of me and press the shutter while keeping my face in frame, which in hindsight, is probably why Instax chose to add the self-timer feature, and has heavily pitched the Wide 400 as a camera for group selfie shots using some kind of stable surface or tripod. 

The self-timer is definitely the most useful feature on the camera, and the only 'modern' upgrade. The one-button camera design with automatic exposure is great for beginners and very user-friendly, although it doesn't offer any real benefit for photographers who like to take control of the shot and make adjustments to manual exposure. This is a little disappointing, given that most new products from Instax allow for some creative control and experimentation. 

For example, the latest Instax mini 99 camera is the most advanced Instax to date, with fancy new exposure control dials, a double exposure feature, and unique light leak filters. The Instax mini EVO, meanwhile, is an excellent hybrid instant camera, blurring the lines between digital and analogue. 

I was hoping Instax might bring these new tools to formats other than the Instax Mini series, but that's not the case here. Even adding a bulb mode, or the option to toggle the flash without having to cover it with your finger, would have been useful. 

I also found that this camera didn't perform as well in darker conditions, even when subjects were well-lit and when using the flash. I shot a photo of some sunflowers in a vase in my conservatory when the room was still very light, and the print came out dark. I took the same image the following morning and it was much brighter. I didn't realize this would have such a big impact, as shown in the images below. 

Fujifilm Instax Wide 400: Sample images

It's important to recognize that this is not a camera for serious photographers, so if you're looking for high-res studio-quality images then look elsewhere. But if you're just after a bit of fun, and an affordable way to share physical memories and keepsakes with others, then the Instax Wide ticks a lot of boxes.

Should I buy the Fujifilm Instax Wide 400?

Buy it if...

Don't buy it if...

How I tested the Fujifilm Instax Wide 400:

• I used two packs of Instax Wide film (20 shots) and one pack of the black edition wide film (10 shots)
• I used the camera in a variety of indoor and outdoor locations, and in cloudy, overcast, and sunny conditions
• I experimented with self-portraits, group portraits, and closer subjects

I used the Fujifilm Instax Wide 400 for a few weeks, and I felt that I really put this camera through its paces. I aimed to test out the quality of the prints produced in a variety of conditions, including different lighting setups, alternating weather conditions, varied subject matter, with and without flash by covering it with my finger, and for both selfies and group photos. 

I mainly tested the performance of this camera by venturing around my local high street and seaside resort in the south-west of England, capturing a mix of landscape and portrait images. It wasn't all about the print quality though, as I also wanted to test the camera's handling and user-friendliness. 

Nons SL660 two-minute review

As TechRadar’s Cameras Editor I see all kinds of weird and wonderful devices for capturing stills and video, but just when I thought I’d seen it all, the Nons SL660 popped up in my YouTube feed and piqued my curiosity. It’s an instant camera, but not as we know it, being an angular hunk of metal – an SLR with passive Canon EF lens mount, that captures to readily available Fujifilm Instax Square film.

Nons makes two lenses that are directly compatible with the SL660’s Canon EF lens mount – a 35mm f/2.8 and a 50mm f/1.8 – plus a range lens adaptors for other popular SLR lens mounts, including Nikon F and Pentax K. When I requested a loan sample from Nons for this feature, I asked for the Canon EF to Nikon F adaptor because I own a few excellent Nikon lenses, including the full-frame Nikon 20mm f/2.8D AF.

There’s also a Nons SL645, camera, and the key difference between that model and the SL660 is that it records onto Instax Mini film instead. Personally, I much prefer the size of Instax Square prints (and the larger-still Polaroid film even more), so the SL660 was the obvious choice for review. 

Unlike most simple point-and-shoot instant cameras that only offer auto exposure, the Nons SL660 is SLR by design, and entirely manual in operation. You’ll need to select the shutter speed and lens aperture, with an exposure meter above the lens telling you what aperture to use with the selected shutter speed. Your frame is viewed through a pentaprism viewfinder, focus is manual, and you even have to manually eject the print when you’ve taken the shot – a feature that enables multi-exposure shooting. 

This is truly a photographer’s instant camera, and to that end you can swap lenses to mix up the type of shots you can make. It’s also one of, if not the most, expensive instant cameras available. It’s pricier because it’s made of tough metal and in smaller batches versus the standard plastic used in most other mass-produced instant cameras like the Fujifilm Instax SQ40; the Nons SL660 is an altogether different camera to those, and the high-end build quality goes some way towards justifying the significant outlay. 

The SL660 is a bulky and heavy instant camera, and the image quality it's capable of producing is ultimately limited by the Instax Square film it uses – you will, for example, need an ND filter in bright light. Despite its constraints, I'm charmed by it, and I suspect that of all the best instant cameras you can buy, the Nons SL660 is the one that photographer me will come back to again and again. 

Nons SL660: price and release date

The Nons SL660 camera alone costs $599 / £603 from the Nons website or from Amazon, and with its passive Canon EF lens mount it's best suited to manual-control Canon EF lenses. If you use modern Canon EF lenses you might sacrifice aperture control (if your lens doesn't have an aperture ring) and even manual focus control ('STM' lenses). You can also purchase the SL660 as a bundle with the 35mm f/2.8 lens for $709 / £717, with the 50mm f/1.8 lens for $649 / £660, or with any one of a number of lens adaptors for $609 / £615. This high-end pricing pits the SL660 firmly against the Polaroid I-2 – the two cameras are in a different league to point-and-shoot instant cameras. Pricing for the Nons SL645 starts at $539 / £541. We'll update this review if and when pricing and availability for Australia are confirmed.

Nons SL660: design

Images of the Nons SL660 online didn’t prepare me for what I set my eyes on when unboxing the gear – this looks like no other instant camera. It’s a love it or hate it brutalist block of aluminum with defined features: a genuine wooden grip, a crank to engage the viewfinder, a pronounced shutter button, and striking shutter speed dial. 

There’s an optical viewfinder with through-the-lens display, so the perspective is correct to the attached lens. The display is dim, but I like its grainy filmic quality. There’s a portion of your instant print that you don’t see through the viewfinder display – when shooting with the thick border at the bottom of your Instax Square print, the unseen section is to the left. It takes a couple of shots to get used to this, and thereafter you can factor this in to make the best possible composition.

To shoot the ‘correct’ way, with the thicker border positioned at the bottom of your print, you need to flip the camera 90 degrees with the grip at the top – vertical if you will – otherwise the thick border will be on the left-hand side of your print, which looks weird unless that’s your intention.

The Nons SL660 is powered by an internal battery topped up via USB-C (using the supplied USB-C to USB-A cable, not just any USB-C cable) and is rated for around 100 shots on a full charge. A tiny top LCD displays battery life along with the number of prints remaining in the inserted film pack (the shot counter failed in my review sample after a couple of packs of film), plus the aperture setting needed on your lens to get the correct exposure for the selected shutter speed, based on the camera's exposure metering.

If you're shooting in bright light you'll need an ND filter for your lens, or else your shots will be overexposed – a 3EV to 7EV variable ND is perfect. The Nons 35mm f/2.8 lens I had has a 52mm thread. Because the exposure meter is separate to the lens (ie., not TTL), you'll need to calculate the exposure settings based on the strength of the filter, or place it in front of the meter to get the reading first, and then attach it to the lens. The 'reflective' exposure meter calculates an evaluative reading for the whole frame.

By today’s standards the Nons SL660 is awkward to hold, and by heck is it chunky, primarily because it needs that extra depth for the Canon EF-mount flange focal distance. This is no pocket camera. It’s also a paradox – a custom-made one-of-a-kind feel, yet it captures onto the most popular and accessible instant film. I had several packs of regular Instax Square film for this review, and there are a few readily available alternatives, like a monochrome film, too.

Stylistically I like the pronounced shutter button. However, it’s all too easy to press it unintentionally, which results in a wasted print. I almost lost that screw-on button, too, as it unthreaded itself more than once. The reason that the button is detachable in the first place is to allow you to swap it out for a cable release for hands-free operation, which is neat, but a tighter thread is needed for a secure fix.

Nons SL660: performance

Long before I'd received the Nons SL660 or taken any shots with it, I had formed a certain expectation regarding the quality of instant prints it could make. After all, it comes with a proper Nons lens, plus, in my case, I can use it with some excellent Nikon lenses. Rival instant cameras like the Instax SQ40 are restricted to a built-in, low-cost lens. 

Surely, then, the instant photos made with the Nons SL660 would be superior to anything else before it? Well, yes and no. Despite the superior optics, we’re still shooting onto the same film type – an ISO800 stock with limited dynamic range. Also, the print area of Instax Square film only measures 62mm x 62mm, and so it’s hardly big enough to really show off lens quality. 

Rather than outright image quality, the real appeal of the SL660 over cheaper and simpler rivals, besides its unique design, is that you can swap out lenses and therefore mix up the focal length and perspective of your shots. Unfortunately, my telephoto macro lens for Nikon F-mount lacks an aperture ring, and I was unable to get a good shot with it. Get the right manual lens, however, and great fun can be had.  

Almost all the instant photos I took with the SL660 for this review were taken with the Nons 35mm f/2.8 lens. For full exposure control when adapting an alternative lens, like I did through the Nikon F-mount adaptor, you need a lens with aperture control. That counts out most modern DSLR lenses from Canon, Nikon and Pentax. When using a Nikon lens without an aperture ring, the aperture is automatically set to its smallest setting, while some Canon lenses are set to their widest aperture setting. (I also had a great struggle removing the adaptor ring from my Nikon lens after use.) Besides Nons' own lenses, an old Canon EF lens with aperture ring makes the most practical sense. 

To get prints with the correct brightness, I needed to experiment a little to understand the behaviour of the SL660’s auto-exposure metering. If you follow the suggested aperture settings to a tee, then prints tend to come out a little dark for my liking, but when I increased the exposure by around 1EV, by opening the aperture up or halving the shutter speed, the results were better. 

Apply this knowledge about the camera's exposure metering and most your shots will come out fine. However, alternatives like the Fujifilm Instax Square SQ40 shoot in auto-exposure only, with a built-in auto flash, and with those cameras you'll get fewer wasted prints. 

You also need to understand the limitations of Fujifilm Instax film. It has an ISO 800 sensitivity rating, which is bang on with the fastest possible 1/250 sec shutter speed and f/4 aperture (approx) when shooting in cloudy weather, but when the sun comes out you need to stop the aperture right down, to nearer f/22 or even beyond the limit of the lens.

I prefer the look when shooting with a wider aperture, not least to make subjects stand out better, but also in this case for a brighter and clearer view through the viewfinder (it gets dimmer as you reduce the aperture size), and so a ND filter is a must-have accessory – otherwise the SL660 is practically unusable in bright light. 

There’s also a hard limit on the dynamic range of the film – if you shoot scenes with high contrast, like a backlit portrait or a white overcast sky, you’ll need to choose between a brightness for highlights or shadows; you can’t have both. An ideal scenario is even lighting: soft sunlight on your subject and background, or at least a darker background so the subjects pops.

There's a standard hotshoe to attach an optional flash. Nons doesn't sell its own flash, nor did I use the SL660 with a flash for this review – that's a whole other creative technique I look forward to exploring with this camera. I’ve complained about certain Fujifilm Instax cameras with built-in flash in the past because some models auto-fire the flash for every photo you take, whether you need it or not. However, that’s a better option than the SL660, which has no built-in flash at all – at least you can cover an Instax camera's flash with your finger when it’s not needed. 

Once your shot is ready, you hard-press the eject button and out pops the print. This manual-eject control also enables a multi-exposure function. You’ll need to recalculate the correct exposure for each shot depending what’s in each frame, and the results can be excellent if you know what you’re doing, or at least be prepared to waste a print or two experimenting. For example, I shot a self-portrait silhouette against a bright sky in one exposure, and then another one of closeup details of flowers that visibly populates the silhouette –  a classic double-exposure effect. 

Overall, if you’re using the Nons SL660 with the 35mm f/2.8 lens without ND filter or flash, it’s fairly limited as to what scenes it's suitable for. But if you're equipped with accessories and willing to experiment, great results can be achieved. 

Should I buy the Nons SL660?

Buy it if...

Don't buy it if...

How I tested the Nons SL660

I had the Nons SL660 SLR instant camera for a couple of months, and I went through a fair few packs of regular Instax Square film. For the majority of the review I used the Nons 35mm f/2.8 lens, although I did adapt a couple of my Nikon F-mount lenses with mixed success. 

Testing the camera in a variety of lighting conditions that ranged from sunny weather to indoors, I experimented with various shutter speeds and lens apertures, and took both single-shot and multi-exposure photos. I've not used the Nons SL660 with a hotshoe mounted flash, nor used the bulb mode or attached a cable release. 

First reviewed April 2024

Polaroid I-2: One-minute review

Polaroid has a long and winding history. Founder Edwin Land launched the world's first instant camera (the Model 95) and film in 1948 at a Boston department store, and it was an instant success. The company managed to endure throughout the film era, but it filed for bankruptcy in 2001 and again in 2008 – when the production of its instant film stopped.

A whole host of bizarre products were then created under the Polaroid brand, from cheap DVD players to the Polaroid Snap Android smartphone. It wasn't until 2017 that Polaroid received backing from a shareholder of The Impossible Project, first becoming Polaroid Originals, then in 2020 going back to the original Polaroid name. Quite the tumultuous journey.

Polaroid has been making a steady comeback in the last few years, launching the Polaroid Now, Now+ and tiny Polaroid Go, which are some of the best instant cameras around today. By contrast, the latest Polaroid I-2 is more grown-up, more expensive and more advanced – in fact, it's the first instant camera to offer fully manual exposure controls. It’s also well connected, working with the Polaroid smartphone app via Bluetooth to enable remote shooting.

But that doesn't mean it's lost its retro charm. When Techradar's Lance Ulanoff tried out the Polaroid I-2 before me, he says he was instantly transported to a simpler, happier time. And I have to say that I agree. It's a well-crafted camera that Polaroid says is "designed for craft", but it won't suit everyone. 

Its price is enough to put off amateurs, but for true Polaroid fans, or those who want to take their instant photography more seriously, the I-2 is a joy to use – as long as you're prepared to experiment, and to shell out for Polaroid film.

Polaroid I-2: Price and release date

The Polaroid I-2 was launched on September 7, 2023, and is available now directly from the Polaroid website, as well as from photography retailers for $599 / £599 / AU$1,095 at the time of writing – a talking point in itself. 

For the same money as a single Polaroid I-2, you could pick up four Polaroid Now+ cameras, or eight Instax Mini 12s (with some cash to spare on film), or put the cash towards one of the best mirrorless cameras instead. It’s hard to see a justification for the I-2's price tag, and the price alone will put off many users, and that's not even factoring that each Polaroid print costs significantly more than Fujifilm Instax alternatives.

That said, the I-2 hasn't been designed for mass-market, Instagram-generation appeal. It's a more unique and refined proposition than its Instax rivals, and I don't say that with scorn, as I happily own the Instax Mini 40 and Mini 90 myself. I just believe there are enough photographers who are attracted to the history and craft of analog instant photography to splurge on the camera. And if money is no object, I'd say the Polaroid I-2 is the best instant camera you can buy.

Polaroid I-2: Specs

Polaroid I-2: Features

My experience of Polaroid comes mainly from my childhood in the 1990s, and a camera I bought off eBay while at university in the early 2010s. Even then, as an early hipster just starting to learn about film processing, I loved the analog aesthetic and tactile process, and the fact that I could peg the prints from my fairy lights; as a student, though, I didn't love the cost of the film. With the Polaroid I-2, all of these things still ring true, but now there's a real sense of control over how the prints turn out.

The main selling point of the I-2 is its manual exposure controls. It offers the choice of Auto, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, Manual, Multi-Exposure (up to four exposures in one shot), and Self Timer modes. The aperture ranges from f/8 to f/64, while the shutter speed range is 1/250 sec to 30 seconds. This isn't a camera for fast action, but the ability to toggle through settings does bring versatility to the subjects you can shoot. 

The I-2 has an exposure compensation dial that allows you to add plus or minus two stops to the camera meter's reading, in third-stop increments. The compensation, aperture and shutter speed are displayed in the viewfinder, while the latter two settings also show up on the camera's outer screen. You'll also see a hand icon in the bottom of the viewfinder if the camera thinks your shutter speed is slow enough to cause camera shake.

Autofocus is another standout feature of the I-2. Granted, it's center-weighted, and you only get one AF point located in the center of the frame, but the LiDAR (light detection and ranging) technology is surprisingly effective. It locks onto near and distant subjects – the range is approximately 0.4 meters to infinity – in lower light as well as in good light. In practice, you half press the shutter down to focus, then press it fully to take the shot. The stepping motor driving the focus can be noisy and high-pitched, but I found this oddly reassuring as someone who grew up with a dial-up modem. It's a three-lens autofocus system, and the focal length is fixed at 98mm.

The I-2's internal lithium-ion battery can be recharged via USB, and Polaroid says a full charge will last for up to 15 packs of film (that's 120 shots at eight photos per pack). I only got the chance to shoot through four packs of film when testing, and during that time the juice had drained by around 25%, which was impressive.

In terms of connectivity features, the I-2 features Bluetooth, meaning it can pair seamlessly with the Polaroid app (iOS and Android). I found this quick to download, quick to connect and pick up the camera, and intuitive when it came to changing settings. The app is also useful for remote operation with the camera on a tripod.

Before you start snapping, I’d recommend looking over the paper pullout that Polaroid supplies in the box, as it covers menu navigation and buttons. Given that i-Type film is upwards of $2/£2 a sheet (the camera also works with 600 film), you’ll want to know exactly what everything does so that you don’t waste any.

Polaroid I-2: Build and handling

The Polaroid I-2 is markedly bigger and heavier than its cheaper siblings. It's made mostly from a matte-gray impact-resistant plastic and some metal elements, and it feels premium and durable. However, I wouldn't want to drop it from any great height, or use it outside in anything other than light rain.

There’s nothing too complicated about the body itself. On the front you'll find the pronounced red shutter button, the flash, the viewfinder front, and a slot for the film to eject out of. Looking at the I-2 top-down, there's an outer display, a thin button to toggle through the different modes, a power button and a flash button, all of which are nicely responsive to touch.

You can connect an external flash via the 2.5mm flash sync port at the back, which is next to the USB-C charging port. The large viewfinder is also at the back, while underneath there's a tripod mount. On the lens itself, you get the exposure compensation switch, plus the selection dial for settings. Again, both of these are responsively clicky, although once or twice I did nudge the exposure compensation switch by accident.

Subjectively, the I-2 looks suave, but I generally found it too big and cumbersome to use with one hand; with two hands and the included wrist strap, shooting was a more comfortable and secure experience. Polaroid also gives you a plush cloth pouch to protect the I-2 when it's stowed away, but if I were to frequently chuck the camera in a bag I'd want to invest in a hard case to save it from knocks.

Polaroid I-2: Image quality and performance

The Polaroid I-2 is aimed at a pro-grade audience, or at least those who know their way around the exposure settings of a camera. So how is the image quality? What of the manual exposure controls? It's a slightly mixed bag, in my opinion.

The camera takes the newer I-Type Polaroid film – which matches the original Polaroid square format with the iconic white frame – as well as 600 film for vintage-era cameras. The prints take around 15 minutes to develop, and it's vital that they're stored in a dark place (the film box works well here) or face down as they do.

When I was shooting in automatic exposure mode and flat, overcast lighting or soft sunshine, the color reproduction of prints was pretty much as I expected from the Color I-Type film. The tones were even, desaturated and subtle (calling them washed-out sounds too negative), with that characteristic 'vintage' look that lovers of instant cameras tend to enjoy. My Instax prints are generally a little more punchy, but it's a close contest between the two, and largely subjective.

When I added the flash into the mix for auto-exposure shots, the I-2 handled a mix of flash and ambient light capably, but it didn't always get the metering right. I know that Polaroid suggests shooting away from direct light, and that makes sense – its metering isn't advanced enough to cope with backlighting. But even in softer autumn light in the UK, I found that a lot of my pictures were overexposed. With the film being as expensive as it is, you don't really want to fire off several prints with exposure compensation to find out which one is best, and at times I struggled to trust the I-2's built-in meter.

I'm someone who shoots almost constantly in Aperture Priority or Manual mode with my mirrorless camera, and so I took to these modes on the I-2 more easily than a beginner might do. I learned to boost the exposure when photographing my black dog, for example, or dial it down in bright sun. A certain level of trial and error was still required, although I think over time you'll learn exactly what works with the I-2 – albeit after spending a large amount on film to get there.

The autofocus is pretty much spot-on, as I've already alluded to. When composing the frame through the viewfinder – which can be susceptible to some glare – you just need to make sure your subject is bang in the center of the frame. It helps that when  focus is achieved, the distance is shown in both the viewfinder and the display. In any instances where my photo wasn't sharp, it was due to a too-slow exposure.

I'm also pleased to report that the multiple exposure mode works brilliantly, with the Polaroid I-2 calculating the correct exposure depending on how many frames you choose. The self-timer option also went without a hitch, which makes it easy to shoot selfies and group shots.

I also tested the Polaroid I-2 with B&W i-type and Blue 600 film. The monochrome prints were low-grain and quite gentle, yet (when exposed correctly) had a surprisingly full range of tones. I'll be spending more time refining my results in black and white, but I'm pleased overall, and I think photographers who want low-noise prints will be too.

The Blue 600 film is made from reclaimed material from Polaroid's manufacturing process, and as the name suggests it gives striking blue colors. Again, this won't be to everyone's tastes, but it's totally wacky, experimental and great fun, and I can see it being popular for urban scenes and out-there portraits.

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Polaroid I-2: How I tested

I tested the Polaroid I-2 camera over a period of two weeks, and used it to capture a range of real-life scenarios. I took photos in a formal garden, in coffee shops, on dog walks, and in the busy city where I live, as well as in a range of varied lighting conditions, from low light to bright sunshine. I experimented with different three film types: Color I-type, B&W I-type and Reclaimed Blue 600. 

Given that the I-2 is distinguished by its full manual controls, I took test shots with the camera in Manual exposure mode, as well as using the other exposure modes and the multiple exposure feature. I also turned the flash on and off to see how the camera handled the balance of flash and ambient light. For several shots, I paired the I-2 with the Polaroid smartphone app to test the Bluetooth connectivity and effectiveness of the app, also using this app to digitize my photos.

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First tested October 2023.