Organizer
Gadget news
I flew the DJI Neo 2 for a week, and this affordable selfie drone feels like a big upgrade over its predecessor
3:00 pm | November 13, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Cameras Computers Drones Gadgets | Tags: , | Comments: Off

DJI Neo 2: one-minute review

The DJI Neo was a cheap beginner drone that represented a push in a new direction for the brand: it was designed primarily for shooting very short clips and photos for social media, and its size and simplicity (it could be flown without a controller) made it a carry-anywhere device.

A year on, the DJI Neo 2 is here, and I'm happy to report that it retains the core appeal of the original model – affordable, simple and small – while also packing some meaningful improvements.

DJI Neo 2

(Image credit: Future | Sam Kieldsen)

For me, the headline upgrade is the addition of an omnidirectional obstacle avoidance system. One of the Neo's weaknesses was a tendency to crash, particularly when you were using one of its automated flight modes, but the new setup, with combined vision and LiDAR sensors, makes collisions a lot less likely.

The camera has also been improved, with better image stabilization thanks to a new two-axis gimbal, higher frame-rate options for 4K video, and slightly improved sensitivity. And there's now almost 50GB of onboard storage, up from 22GB on the original model.

For automated flight modes I liked the new onboard screen, which is much more informative and useful than the icon-based indicators on the Neo.

Aside from these tweaks, things are much the same as on the Neo, for better or worse. Flight time is still a little on the short side, so investing in multiple batteries is recommended, while on the control front, the option to supplement autonomous flight with manual control from a smartphone running the DJI Fly app or a full-blooded twin-stick controller makes the Neo 2 far more than a simple selfie drone.

DJI Neo 2: release date and price

  • Released November 13 2025
  • Base kit costs £209 / AU$409, Fly More Bundle costs £349 / AU$709
  • Not officially available in US

DJI announced the Neo 2 on November 13 2025, a little over a year after the launch of the original Neo. It's available to order immediately in most of the world, in the following options:

DJI Neo 2 (drone only) from £209 / AU$409; DJI Neo 2 Fly More Combo, which includes the drone plus three batteries and a charging hub, from £289 / AU$549; DJI Neo 2 Fly More Combo, which includes the above plus an RC-N3 controller, from £349 / AU$709; and DJI Neo 2 Motion Fly More Combo, which includes the batteries and hub plus a motion controller and FPV headset.

When the original Neo arrived last year, it was priced from £169 / AU$299, so the Neo 2 is a slightly pricier prospect. However, given its extra features and functionality, I think the extra cost is justified, and it's still one of the cheapest non-toy drones on the market.

As with all recent DJI products, the Neo 2 is not coming to the US market. DJI has released the following statement: "The DJI Neo 2 will not be officially available in the US market through official websites following the global launch on November 13. DJI remains committed to the U.S. market and is optimizing our strategy to best serve our customers amidst evolving local conditions."

DJI Neo 2

(Image credit: Future | Sam Kieldsen)

DJI Neo 2: specs

DJI Neo 2 specs

Camera:

12MP 1/2-inch CMOS sensor

Video resolution:

4K

Frame rates:

4K up to 60fps (100fps when using remote control)

Video transmission range:

04 for 10km (FCC), 6km (CE/SRRC/MIC)

Flight modes:

Manual Control, Follow, Skiing Follow, Cycling Follow, SelfieShot, Dronie, Helix, Rocket, Circle, Boomerang, Dolly Zoom, Spotlight

Storage:

49GB on-board

Battery:

1606mAh / up to 19 minutes flight time.

Charger type:

USB-C / Battery charging hub

Weight:

5.6oz / 160g (inc. transceiver)

Dimensions:

167 x 171 x 54mm (inc. transceiver)

DJI Neo 2: design and handling

  • Non-folding design with enclosed propellers
  • 160g weight with Digital Transceiver fitted (151g without)
  • 49GB of built-in storage

The overall look of the Neo 2 is similar to last year's original – this is a small, non-folding 'whoop'-style quadcopter with integrated propeller guards and a nose-mounted camera. But on closer inspection there are some key differences.

One major departure is an extra pod on the back, complete with rabbit-ear antennas. This is a Digital Transceiver, which comes pre-installed on certain versions of the drone and allows it to connect to DJI accessories like controllers and headsets. Without it, the Neo 2 can only be flown with a smartphone or completely controller-free.

For me, the most welcome change is the inclusion of a small display on the front, which indicates which flight mode the drone is in. It's a big improvement on the Neo's light-up icons, which I always found confusing. This display, along with the three buttons arranged along one side of the drone, makes controller-free flight much simpler this time around, and meant I didn't feel the need to pull out my phone and connect to the DJI Fly app so often.

These changes haven't greatly affected the shape or weight of the drone compared to the original, and at around 160g with the transceiver or 151g without, it falls well under the key 250g threshold. In the EU, it's a Class 0 model, and with these classifications coming to the UK soon it means the Neo 2 can be flown in most locations, closer than 50m to uninvolved people and over people (but not over crowds).

The build quality is what you'd expect from a DJI drone: despite the lightweight plastic, it feels solid and well built. An included plastic cover fits on to protect the camera when it's not in use, and extra prop guards come pre-installed to protect both the propellers and the fingers of users from harm. These can be removed, should you need to replace the propellers.

I had no fears about tossing the Neo 2 into my backpack when travelling, although I was a little surprised that the Fly More Combo DJI sent me to review didn't come with some kind of carrying bag or case.

The Neo 2's batteries pop in and out easily, and can be charged either inside the drone or using the optional three-battery hub. The drone has its own USB-C port for both charging and data transfer, and like the original model there's no microSD card slot for storage expansion. The built-in storage has been upgraded though, from the Neo's 22GB to 49GB. That's enough for about 105 minutes of 4K 60fps footage or 175 minutes of 4K 30fps footage.

DJI Neo 2: features and performance

  • Range of built-in flight modes and QuickShots
  • Also compatible with DJI controllers
  • 49GB of built-in storage space

The Neo 2 is first and foremost a selfie drone, designed for capturing quick shots of you and yours for your holiday album or social media. To that end, it comes with a range of built-in automated flight modes, plus QuickShots, which is designed to record a video or take a photo while flying in a preset and predictable manner. To see some of these in action, check out the video embedded in the next section of this review.

The Neo 2 also features pretty impressive tracking capabilities, allowing it to follow the user using just its camera, filming as it does so. It can do this while you're on foot, on a bike or even skiing, and having tested the first two methods I can say it's very adept at doing this.

You can set it to follow you at various angles and distances, and I found it easiest to set these using the DJI Fly app, connected to the Neo 2 via Wi-Fi. The drone's own screen and buttons can be used for this too, but it's just simpler and more reliable to do it using your phone in my experience.

DJI Neo 2

The Fly More Combo comes with a DJI RC-N3 controller, which allows you to fly the Neo 2 like a 'standard' DJI camera drone (Image credit: Future | Sam Kieldsen)

I also flew the Neo 2 using touchscreen controls and the DJI Fly app on a smartphone, and the RC-N3 controller. The app flight controls are quite rudimentary, but the drone responded well to them, and I think they're fine for getting it into a particular position for a photo or video.

With the controller, the flight experience becomes much more like a traditional DJI camera drone, and the drone flies nimbly and responsively here – albeit with less wind resistance and speed than a fully-fledged Mini, Air or Mavic drone.

As with the Neo, the Neo 2 is also suitable for FPV flying, if you have a set of compatible DJI Goggles and RC Motion Controller. I wasn't able to test this out personally, unfortunately.

DJI Neo 2

The Neo 2 can stay airborne for around 18 minutes in ideal conditions, but in real-world use, this tends to be closer to 10 minutes (Image credit: Future | Sam Kieldsen)

Perhaps the biggest flight upgrade on the Neo 2 is the addition of omnidirectional object sensing, which prevents the drone from crashing into trees, fences and the like during its automated flights. It even uses LiDAR for the forward-facing sensor.

Given that the original had essentially no object avoidance at all, it's a game-changer, and in my tests it worked well. For example, rather than flying into tree branches behind it, I noticed it dropped in altitude to get underneath them – impressive stuff from such a small, affordable drone.

Battery life is about the same as the original Neo: 18 or so minutes in ideal conditions. In real-world use, I found it to be closer to 10 minutes, so if you're planning on flying for extended periods then the Fly More Combo, with its extra batteries and charging cradle, feels like a sensible option.

DJI Neo 2: image and video quality

  • 1/2-inch image sensor
  • 4K video capture up to 100fps
  • 12MP JPEG photography

DJI Neo 2

The camera is mounted on a two-axis gimbal and includes electronic image stabilization. (Image credit: Future | Sam Kieldsen)

The Neo 2 offers a modest image quality upgrade, but uses what appears to be the same 12MP 1/2-inch sensor as its predecessor. The camera is now mounted on a new two-axis gimbal which, partnered with the RockSteady electronic image stabilization brought over from the original Neo, manages to keep the horizon level while shooting.

In higher winds, there's a little less stability to the camera than I'd expect from a full-blooded DJI camera drone – but then this isn't one of those, and it performs excellently for a drone in this price bracket.

The camera provides a 119.8-degree field of view, with a full-frame equivalent focal length of 16.5mm, which is wide without adding too much corner distortion. The aperture is fixed at f/2.2, making the camera slightly faster than the Neo's f/2.8 lens. ISO range has been improved too, and now runs from 100 to 12800 in most shooting modes.

The Neo 2 isn't a "serious" camera drone in the same way as many of its DJI stablemates, but can still manage 4K capture at up to 60fps (or 100fps when using a controller). I think the footage and 12MP photos look more than acceptable straight from the camera, but if you're expecting pro-level quality you're going to be disappointed. There are no options to shoot in anything other than the Standard color profile for video, and no RAW option for photos. There's no way to fit ND filters on the camera either.

If you can live with these limitations and take the Neo 2 for what it is, you should be more than happy with its camera performance. I know I was – for such a small and simple drone, it delivers results that are ideal for social media sharing.

DJI Neo 2: testing scorecard

DJI Neo 2

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Price

Not quite as cheap as its predecessor, but still superb value

5/5

Design

Small, lightweight and well constructed

4/5

Performance

Lots of control options, now with obstacle avoidance

5/5

Image and video quality

Simple stuff, but gets the job done

4/5

Should I buy the DJI Neo 2?

DJI Neo 2

(Image credit: Future | Sam Kieldsen)

Buy it if...

You want a simple, small drone
With the option to fly controller-free, the Neo 2 keeps things beautifully simple – and its obstacle avoidance makes crashing much less likely than was the case with the original Neo.

You’re on a limited budget
The Neo 2 is affordable compared with some of DJI's more advanced drones, especially if you buy the base kit. It's a great way to get into drone flying.

You already own DJI FPV accessories
If you already own a DJI FPV controller (Motion 3 or FPV 3) and DJI Goggles N3 or 3, the Neo 2 gives you a lightweight, restriction-free alternative to the Avata.

Don't buy it if...

You want advanced photo and video capabilities
The Neo 2 is designed with capturing quick shots and clips in mind. Despite its 4K resolution it's not a 'serious' camera drone – you'll need to move further up DJI's range for those.

You want a 'real' FPV drone
While FPV flight is possible by adding a headset and controller, the prohibitive combined cost means you're better off buying a DJI Avata 2 instead. It's better suited to the job too.View Deal

DJI Neo 2: also consider

How I tested the DJI Neo 2

  • All main features and functions tested
  • Flown with the DJI RC-N3 Controller, direct app control and without app
  • Flown outside in dry but breezy conditions

I tested the DJI Neo 2 outdoors during the autumn of 2025 in the UK, in dry but fairly blustery weather conditions. The aim was to test all the functions, features and flight modes of the drone in real-world situations, in order to properly assess its capabilities and limitations.

Of the control options available on the drone I tested voice control, palm take-off without the use of the DJI Fly app, app control, and the DJI RC-N3 Controller. I was not able to test its FPV abilities, lacking the necessary gear to do so.

First reviewed November 2025

I tested the Kodak Ektar H35N half-frame film camera – it’s cheap, it’s crude… and I loved it
8:00 am | November 11, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Cameras Compact Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

Half-frame cameras have garnered a bit of a cult following – enough for Pentax to make the Pentax 17 half-frame film camera (which we love) and for Fujifilm to make the X half, which is more of a digital ‘tribute’ to half-frame cameras than a faithful replica.

Film cameras have become a big thing among photographers trying to recapture the feel and mood of analog media, and the camera designs that went with it. Check out our guide to the best film cameras to see a long list of all the new film cameras on the market, and some classic oldies that are definitely worth seeking out on the used market. If you're new to all this, we also have a guide to camera film sizes and types.

The basic principle of a half-frame analog camera is that it uses regular 35mm film, but instead of capturing images horizontally using the 24mm height of the film and a horizontal width of 36mm, it captures images vertically, so they're 24mm high and 18mm wide (or 17mm if you allow for the extra gap between the half frames).

You get twice as many shots on the roll as they're roughly half the size – and the camera takes vertical rather than horizontal photos (of course, you can rotate the camera to swap from vertical to horizontal if you need to).

Kodak Extar H35N

Looks like a regular 35mm film camera inside, right? Not quite – usual horizontal 35mm film gate is replaced with a vertical 'half-frame' format. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

You do get twice as many exposures on a roll of film, which sounds like a cost saving, but then you have to find a lab that will do half -frame prints, and printing will cost more because there are more prints.

But by a strange twist of fate, half-frame cameras are particularly well suited to social sharing because they match the vertical orientation of mobile devices in a way that camera makers of old could never have anticipated.

Back, then, to the Kodak Ektar H35N. This is an improved version of the Ektar H35 we reviewed in 2024, replacing that camera's plastic lens with a glass one. We weren't over-impressed with the Ektar H35 at the time, but since then we've been swept along by a huge surge of interest in analog photography, so maybe this improved point and shoot Kodak deserves a second look.

Where half-frame cameras have so far been a somewhat expensive hipster fad, the Kodak is about as cheap as it’s possible for a camera to get. It’s also extremely crude, and is essentially no more sophisticated then a disposable single-use film camera.

Kodak Extar H35N

The Kodak H35N takes a single AAA battery, but this is solely to power the flash – the camera doesn't need it to operate. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

The difference is that you can open the back to load and unload film, and you can swap out the single AAA battery for the flash. If you don’t use the flash, you don’t need the battery.

And in case you’re wondering what kind of exposure system it has and how the focusing works, it doesn’t really have either. It relies on the huge latitude of analog negative films to capture images in daylight ranging from bright sun to heavy overcast, and indoors you simply have to use the flash and stick to close-range subjects. The harsh flash look is really trending right now for its retro vibes, and this little Kodak does it brilliantly.

The focus is fixed. The lens has an aperture of f/11, so it has enough depth of field for distance of 1m and beyond, depending on how much sharpness you expect. This camera is all about the look, not technical precision.

Kodak Extar H35N

The lens has a fixed aperture of f/11 and there are no exposure or focus controls. The ring around the lens is just to switch the flash on and off (if you can budge it). (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

This may not sound like the kind of camera you could be even remotely interested in, but hold on. You do have to shoot in the right kind of light (daylight or with flash), and you do have to trust your film to deal with degrees of overexposure and underexposure which would send a digital sensor into a tailspin. But you adapt surprisingly quickly. It’s a simple camera designed to do a simple job, and it does it brilliantly. If you could even contemplate using an Instax, this is cheaper and gives you much bigger and better prints with all the same character and more.

Bottom line? I started out in film photography and I know the limitations of analog film and its particular charm. The Kodak H35N took me straight back to simpler times and simpler cameras. I thought I would hate it, but I loved it.

Kodak Ektar H35N: price

  • $64.99 / £67 (around AU$98)
  • Factor in the cost of developing and printing – half-frame is more specialized and expensive

The Kodak Ektar H35N is a cheap camera! Its price is a million miles from the (expensive) sophistication of the Pentax 17 half-frame camera. The Kodak is also very basic. In fact, you can think of it as a bit like a disposable camera that you can re-use. It's available in a variety of colors and styles, and at a typical price of $64.99 / £67 (around AU$100), it’s a cute, inexpensive buy.

It’s crude, but at this price you probably won’t care. Do factor in the cost of developing and printing, though. You’ll need to find a lab that will process film from half-frame cameras, and the cost of prints will double – after all, there are twice as many per roll of film!

Kodak Ektar H35N: specs

Format:

35mm half-frame

Lens:

22mm f/11 (approx. 30mm effective)

ISO:

ISO 200 or 400 film recommended

Focus:

Fixed at approx. 1m-infinity

Flash:

Built in

Exposure:

Auto plus bulb

Battery:

1x AAA (for flash)

Viewfinder:

Optical, direct vision

Size:

110mm x 62mm x 39mm, 110g

Kodak Ektar H35N: design

  • Plastic build but looks smart
  • Simple controls (well, no controls really)
  • No issues with film loading, shooting and rewinding
  • Small but effective optical viewfinder

Kodak Extar H35N

The metal-look front panel gives the H35N a touch of class, but it really is a very basic camera. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Extar H35N

There's a catch on the side for opening the film back, but it's not easy to move by accident, thankfully. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Extar H35N

The film leader slides into a slit in the take-up spool. I usually pull a bit more out to make sure it's gripped properly (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Extar H35N

There's a tiny frame counter on the top which shows you how many frames you've taken (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Extar H35N

The film is finished when you can't wind on any more. You then hold down the transport release button, fold out the rewind crank and rewind the whole film back into the canister (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

The Ektar H35N might be lightweight plastic, but the front panel has an attractive metallic finish that looks rather smart. Kodak has a knack for making cheap cameras look rather better than they are.

The lens is surrounded by a switch to activate the flash mode. This was extremely stiff on my review sample, so not exactly as convenient as it should be. To one side of the lens there’s another switch for the built in ‘star filter’. Is this useful? Possibly.

On the top, there’s not much to see at all. There’s a big shutter release, a cable release socket for bulb exposures – so you can actually do night shots if you don’t mind estimating how long you need to hold the shutter open for – and there’s also a frame counter to let you know how many shots you’ve taken.

Round the back it’s all semi-matte black plastic. There’s a somewhat stiff and vague switch at the side for opening the back to load and unload film, but you do not want to open the back accidentally, so it’s no bad thing if it is a little fiddly.

Once the film is loaded you use a thumbwheel at the bottom left to advance the film. In standard film camera style, you can’t take a shot until the film is wound on and the shutter is cocked – and once you’ve taken the shot, you have to wind on again to re-cock the shutter. It’s foolproof. And, plastic or not, the film advance and shutter release worked perfectly.

Kodak Extar H35N

A second little switch alongside the lens activates the Star Filter. Useful? Hmm, maybe (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Even film loading is straightforward. I had to pull out just a little more of the film leader to engage properly with the take-up spool, and then I did my usual thing after the back was closed, which is to take up the tension on the rewind crank and check it’s turning as I advance to the first frame. It worked fine.

You know when the film is at the end because you can’t wind on any further, so you press a button in the base to disengage the film transport mechanism, and wind it all back into the film canister with the crank handle.

The Ektar H35N might be cheap, but mine worked fine, with no film jams, no accidental double exposures, and no dramas at all.

Kodak Ektar H35N: performance

  • Good picture quality
  • Surprisingly tolerant to changing light
  • Nice vintage flash look
  • Good colors and contrast (I used a good lab)

Kodak Ektar H35N sample image

If you fancy Lomography style images without Lomography prices, this is your camera! (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Ektar H35N sample image

The in-built flash gives a harsh, short-range light, but this look is really on-trend right now (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Ektar H35N sample image

This trip to a pumpkin patch in late-October gloom worked out really well, despite me using ISO 200 film (ISO 400 would have been better) (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Ektar H35N sample image

The resolution is limited so the fixed-focus lens isn't much of a disadvantage, and you can shoot objects quite close up (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

I started out in film photography before switching to digital right when digital cameras first came in – and there are a few things I'd forgotten about shooting with film.

First, there's nothing quite like opening a pack of prints from the photo lab and looking through them. It doesn’t matter what kind of monitor you have on your desktop – I have a 27-inch 4K BenQ – or what kind of phone or tablet; a digital display is simply not the same as holding a stack of prints in your hand and going through them one by one. Maybe you don’t care – that’s fine – but for me it was a reminder of just how much value simple physical objects can have.

Of course, you can get your digital camera or smartphone images printed too. But they don’t look like this. Digitally-captured images are so technically superior that there’s almost no comparison. By contrast, my images from the Ektar H35N were softer, with crushed shadows and a faint ethereal glow characteristic of analog color negative films. I review photo-editing software as well as cameras, and I haven't yet found a film simulation or plug-in that can give quite the same look.

Kodak Ektar H35N sample image

In good light the colors are very good and details look crisp in 6 x 4-inch prints – though you wouldn't want to blow these pictures up any larger (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak Ektar H35N sample image

This was shot with the Star Filter engaged. It does seem a bit of a gimmick, to be honest (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

And here’s the thing. Imperfect and murky as they sometimes are, the photographs from this camera are just like the ones in the photo albums of your mum and dad, your aunts and uncles. The Kodak's images have a kind of connection with these old photos.

Have you noticed that we’ve all got pictures separated by a great digital divide, when digital cameras took over from film? Your digital photos have a clinical ’now-ness’ that separates them from these older analog photos. Does that make sense? The Kodak H35N, for all is cheapness, crudeness and its limitations, shoots in that older style, and fits right in with your analog family archives.

No, I’m not going to shoot with it every day. My photography is digital now. But that doesn’t stop me from appreciating just what this cheap little Kodak does, and what it brings back that perhaps we'd forgotten.

Should you buy the Kodak Ektar H35N?

Kodak Extar H35N

(Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Buy it if…

You want to get a taste of the analog look

The Kodak Ektar H35N is so cheap there’s nothing to lose. Film, developing and printing can be expensive, but you can still just try it once to see if it’s your thing.

You want a break from digital overload

Once you’ve got the film loaded, the Ektar H35N is incredibly simple to use. There are literally no controls – you wind it on, look through the viewfinder, press the shutter button.

You want album- or frame-ready prints

This is the beauty of analog negative film – prints come as standard. There's nothing like the anticipation and satisfaction of opening a packet of prints fresh from the photo lab.

Don’t buy it if…

You’re expecting high-quality art

The Ektar is a snapshot camera, pure and simple. The prints you’ll get back have that classic lo-fi snapshot look. You could scan the negatives, but you won’t be printing them big.

You want to learn about analog photography

You won’t learn anything from this camera. It’s as basic as a camera can get, with no shutter speed, aperture or focus control. You might, however, learn how amazingly tolerant film can be.

You’re looking for a classy classic camera

The Ektar H35N looks cute enough, but this is not a camera you’ll want to show guests at a dinner party or flash around at photo meets (unless you like winding people up).

Also consider

The Pentax 17 is a ‘proper’ half-frame camera; in other words it has a good lens, proper focusing and exposure controls, and is built to last. If the Ektar H35N inspires you, the Pentax is the obvious step up.

If you like your photography truly hands-on, get the Lomography Konstruktor F (best film cameras), a plastic 35mm camera you have to make yourself. It’s cheap to buy, though a little challenging to make (yes, I’ve made one).

The Olympus Trip 35 (in our best film cameras round-up) is an all-time classic 35mm compact with auto exposure, zone focusing and a selenium metering cell around the lens that requires no batteries. A good used one won’t cost the earth and will give you great results.

How I tested the Kodak Ektar H35N

  • I tested it in different lighting conditions, inside and out
  • I checked the flash illumination in low light
  • I assessed how well it coped with subjects near the camera
  • I also checked that the film transport/rewind worked properly

I took the Kodak H35N on a series of days out and family outings, as well as testing it out in different lighting conditions at home. I used it on bright sunny days, overcast days, the gloom of late afternoon in October and even at dusk with flash.

It’s not like a digital camera where you can check to see what’s worked straight away. Instead, you have to trust in the inherent latitude of color negative film, and a big part of this test was to find out just how many prints I would lose, which makes a difference when you’re paying for developing and printing.

I tested how easy it was to load and unload films – a key point for novice analog users – and the reliability of the film advance/shutter release mechanism. I also tested the in-built flash and even the ‘star filter’, choosing shots with the sun in the frame or showing through trees.

I chose typical ‘snapshot’ subjects that families might shoot, but also the kind of compositions made popular by Lomography and its legions of analog fans. Could you really use a cheap camera like this for this kind of anti-mainstream retro-graphy?

I took the awesome Dwarf III smart telescope on vacation and captured some of my favorite space photos ever
1:00 pm | November 8, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Two-minute review

The Dwarflabs Dwarf III smart telescope is a mini marvel. My first astrophotography set-up 10 years ago weighed more than 20kg / 44lbs – but this excellent little self-contained device comes in at a mere 1.3kg / 2.8lbs and is small enough to fit in airline carry-on luggage.

In fact, that's exactly what I did with it a few months ago, taking it with me on vacation to Greece. I've also used it extensively in my garden in the UK and compared it thoroughly to another smart telescope, the ZWO Seestar S50. And as you can see from my verdict and score above, I love it.

But I'm getting ahead of myself, so let's start with the basics.

The Dwarf III is one of the new breed of smart telescopes which simplify and automate the process of astrophotography to bring it to within easy reach of those without the time or money needed for a 'proper' set-up of mount, telescope and camera.

As with smart telescopes from rivals ZWO, Vaonis and Unistellar, the Dwarf III doesn't have an eyepiece you look through, and doesn't in any way resemble a classic telescope such as a reflector or refractor. Instead, it tracks objects in the night sky then takes photos of them and 'stacks' them.

This process increases the faint signal being captured in order to bring out details – because if you just looked at a single shot, you'd see very little beyond a few stars. The resulting image can be viewed in real-time as it develops on your phone's screen, which is essentially your eyepiece.

You can see it in action below, with the fuzzy object that's barely visible after five frames eventually becoming the recognizable Crescent Nebula after about 60 frames:

A gif showing the Dwarf III smart telescope's app during shooting, as the Crescent Nebula gradually appears

The Crescent nebula appearing in real time on my phone (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The Dwarf III has two lenses to capture its targets, one 35mm telephoto and one 3.4mm wide-angle – although the latter is mainly used for finding objects rather than shooting them.

The telephoto has a 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, which can fit the moon in it about six times and which has space for almost every galaxy and nebula you might want to capture. I go into this in more detail below, but this wide FOV is one of my favorite things about it.

Inside, there's a 4K IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor, which is on the budget end compared to that found within dedicated cooled astronomy cameras but which delivers excellent results, helped also by the fast f/4.3 f-ratio; this captures light more quickly than some rival smart scopes.

It's all controlled by the DwarfLab app, which gives you everything you need to take photos of the night skies without the need for you to do much more than choose your target and set it going. Even if you've never used a smart telescope – or any kind of telescope – before, you should be up and running within a few minutes.

In fact, roughly 20 minutes after taking it out of the box you could be viewing your first shot of wonderfully named objects such as the Elephant's Trunk nebula or Sombrero galaxy – the Dwarf III really is that easy to set up and use.

And when you do so, I'm pretty sure you'll be impressed, because the Dwarf III takes excellent photos given its small stature and low-ish price. It's truly one of the best ways into this fascinating hobby.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: price and availability

The Dwarf III smart telescope photographed in a garden, showing the front of the device

The Dwarf III is competitively priced for what it does – note you'll need to buy a tripod separately (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The DwarfLabs Dwarf III was released in May 2025 and is competitively priced, coming in at $549 / £459 / AU$849. Depending on where you are in the world, that's either slightly cheaper or the same price as one of its main rivals, the ZWO Seestar S50, which costs $549 / £539 / AU$949. Compared to the Seestar S30, which is a comparable size to the Dwarf III, it's more expensive though; that model comes in at $399 / £419 / AU$699.

It's also worth noting that unlike the two Seestar models, the Dwarf III doesn't come with a tripod. Many keen photographers and stargazers will already own one, but if not you can buy one with the telescope for an additional $89 / £73 / AU$149. Or, of course, you can add your own; we have plenty of good options in our list of the best travel tripods. Either way, that might bump up the price a little.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Specs

Aperture (tele)

35mm

Focal length (tele)

150 mm (737mm equivalent)

Aperture (wide)

3.4mm

Focal length (wide)

6.7mm (45mm equivalent)

Sensor

Sony IMX678 STARVIS 2

Resolution (stills)

Telephoto: 3840x2160 (4K); wide-angle: 1920x1080 (FHD)

Resolution (video)

Telephoto: 4K @ 30fps; wide-angle: 1080p @ 30fps

Filters (built in)

VIS, Astro, Dual-band

Mount type

Alt-azimuth and EQ mode

Accessories

USB-C cable, carry case, solar filter

Battery life

10,000mAh / 4 hours

Charging

USB-C

Storage

128GB

Dimensions

222x142x65mm

Weight

1.3 kg / 2.87 lbs

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Design

Looks-wise, the Dwarf III is about as far from a traditional telescope as you could get. Powered off, it resembles a beefy external hard drive from about 2010, but turn it on to reveal the twin lenses and it's more like some kind of futuristic security-camera-robot hybrid.

It's actually pretty cute, with a certain Wall-E charm about it (or maybe that's just me). Either way, it's well built: solid, with a smooth plastic finish and an IP54 rating that keeps it safe from dust, moisture and dew.

It's also impressively small – like, how-did-they-fit-all-that-in-there small, a feeling that only grows after you see what it's capable of. It's relatively light, too, at 1.3kg / 2.87lbs; that's almost half the 2.5kg of the Seestar S50 and a little less than the S30.

There's not a lot to look at, externally. Beyond those two lenses and the DwarfLab logo, there's the main power button – a big circular affair that's very easy to find in the dark and which has a glowing green ring around it – plus a battery status indicator of four green dots, and a single USB-C charging port. On the bottom, meanwhile, there's a 1/4-inch tripod thread.

It comes with an excellent carrying case, plus a couple of accessories: a USB-C charging cable, lens wipe cloth, plus a solar filter. The latter snaps on magnetically in a pleasing fashion, and comes with a pouch to keep it safe.

Design is all very well thought out and though it's a shame it doesn't come with a tripod, that's the only minus point in this regard. It's not a massive problem, either, because many of the telescope's intended customers will already have one, and it helps keep the price low.

I've been using either the Seestar S50's tripod or a K&F Concept 64in/163cm model which costs $49 in the US, £45 in the UK and AU$150 in Australia. This is light, sturdy and has a 360-degree ballhead which makes it very easy to angle the Dwarf III for EQ mode (of which more later).

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Features and performance

The Dwarf III smart telescope photographed in a garden, showing the front of the device with the solar filter attached

The included solar filter snaps on magnetically (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The Dwarf III is a feature-rich device, with a multitude of abilities and use cases.

Obviously the first of those is to take photos of the night skies, and it does that very well thanks to its 4K Sony IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor – the same type as used in some of the best dash cams, including the Thinkware U3000 Pro. Starvis 2 is particularly strong in low light, while the IMX678's 4K resolution gives you more pixels to work with when cropping in on small and distant objects.

The twin lenses are very helpful. The telephoto is what you'll take most of your images with, while the wide-angle one is mainly for locating objects in the first place; you can take photos with it too, but it has a much lower resolution.

I've got a full gallery of astro images taken with the telescope below, but for now here's just one, my favorite that I've shot with the device. It shows the Eagle Nebula, Messier 16, and if you zoom in on the middle you'll see the famous 'Pillars of Creation', the swirling clouds of dust and gas that wowed the world when the Hubble telescope shot them two decades ago.

The Eagle Nebula, processed in Pixinsight, and showing the Eagles of Creation in the center (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The Dwarf III has three internal filters. The most important is the dual-band filter, which targets the OIII (sulphur) and H⍺ (hydrogen) wavelengths – in layman's terms, this means it can capture more of the faint details in nebulae and reduce the impact of light pollution. There's also an astro filter, which extends into the infra-red range and which works best on galaxies and star clusters, and a 'VIS' filter which is used for daytime photography. All are easily selected within the Dwarf III's app; you don't need to physically attach anything.

Speaking of daytime photography, DwarfLabs make a big pitch around the telescope's usefulness around bird watching, and theoretically you could use it instead of a mirrorless camera and telephoto lens for any subject – just don't expect it to rival an expensive chunk of glass from Canon, Nikon or Sony.

The daytime photography ('General') mode includes burst and timelapse options, plus object tracking which I found to be a little hit and miss. 4K video can be recorded at up to 30fps, or 60fps if you switch to 1080p.

There's also a solar system mode for snapping the sun, moon and (theoretically) planets, plus a panorama mode. In Astro mode, meanwhile, you can shoot in either alt-azimuth or equatorial mode.

Performance-wise, the Dwarf III is pretty snappy to turn on and off, and slews to targets quickly and reasonably quietly; it makes less noise than the Seestar S50, for instance, although neither would be likely to wake even the lightest of sleepers next door.

In use, it's unerringly accurate in finding targets, zipping about the sky when you tell it where to go via the built-in star atlas.

It's also incredibly reliable when shooting. If the tracking on a motorized telescope is even a tiny bit off, you'll get star trails and the individual frame will be rejected and not included in the 'stack', potentially reducing detail in the final stacked image. With the Dwarf III, this almost never happened – I generally got around an 80-90% success rate, so if I shot a target for an hour, I'd get around 50 minutes' worth of photos. This is way better than my experience than shooting with the Seestar S50, where it can be more like 50% at times.

Plus, that's when shooting with 15-second exposures in alt-az mode; put it in EQ mode and you can get 30s shots with a similar success rate. This all makes it very easy to capture a lot of data on a target in a short time.

One of the few downsides is that the battery is not the biggest – only 10,000mAh, which is good for about 5 hours in astro mode when tracking and shooting a target, according to DwarfLab, and which was about right in my experience. You almost certainly won't get through a full night's shooting with it.

That said, I didn't put it to the test often, preferring instead to leave a much bigger power bank connected to it to ensure I got a full night's shooting. I tend to use Iniu power banks, which I've found to be very reliable and extremely well priced; the model below is well worth checking out and will triple the Dwarf III's capacity.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Software

Three screenshots from the Dwarf III's app showing various stages of the scheduling process

Scheduling on the Dwarf III is very simple (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The nature of a smart telescope means that all of your interactions with it will be via an app – it's not like you can look through as you can with an old-school reflector or refractor.

That puts a lot of pressure on the device's software to be slick and simple to use, and fortunately the Dwarf III's is just that – with a few caveats.

I began using the Dwarf III several months ago, and on my first few nights shooting with it found the interface to be a little confusing. It wasn't a horror show by any means, but it wasn't as intuitive as ZWO's Seestar app. For instance, I'd click on the big 'Photo' button front and center to start shooting a galaxy or nebula, then would realize that I'd have to go back in and select the 'Atlas' option to actually choose my target.

Settings for options such as exposure time, meanwhile, were hidden within a menu called 'Function' – which really didn't (to me) suggest 'Settings'. I got used to it all after a few nights, but it was a little more confusing than it could have been.

The good news is that DwarfLabs is continually updating the platform, and a recent update has massively improved the experience. Those settings are now within a menu named 'Parameter, which is far more sensible, and the Atlas is available from within the shooting screen. There's a simple toggle between the wide and telephoto cameras, whereas before you tapped the small one to change between them, but again without labelling. It's all much more slick and easy to use.

(Note that most of my images in this review are using the old version of the software, because there's not been a clear night in the UK for me to take further screenshots for what feels like about 15 years now. I'll update them soon.)

There's a scheduling feature within the app, which works as you'd want it to and which is better than the one in ZWO's app. This is a vital inclusion, because most people won't want to stay up all night – they'll want to set the Dwarf III running with a list of targets, then wake refreshed in the morning to a lovely collection of images.

A screenshot from the Dwarf III's app showing alignment achieved in EQ mode

It's very easy to get polar alignment in EQ mode via the Dwarf III app (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

Switching to EQ mode is also pretty trouble-free. For the uninitiated, this lets the Dwarf III rotate fully in sync with the skies, meaning you can take longer exposures than in standard alt-az mode. Anything longer than 30 seconds will need to be in EQ mode (the maximum exposure is two minutes) and in my experience it's best for 30 seconds too; alt-az mode is fine for 15s exposures.

The Dwarf III app guides you through the process of setting the telescope into EQ mode, telling you exactly which direction and what amount to adjust the tripod head by, and the whole thing only takes about five minutes, less if you haven't moved the tripod since the previous session.

Three screenshots from the Dwarf III's app showing the Stellar Studio processing suite

The Stellar Studio processing suite can get great results with very little effort (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The included Stellar Studio software is also great. This lets you carry out basic processing actions on photos via the cloud, rather than needing to download them to your computer.

It's not exactly stacked with options, but does a really good job of reducing noise, sharpening stars and bringing out details. You can also remove stars entirely if you want that lovely clean view of a galaxy or nebula.

A screenshot showing the Dwarf III's photo mode using the wide-angle and telephoto cameras

The Dwarf III's wide-angle and telephoto cameras work well in General/Daytime mode (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

Finally, in 'General' mode the app works pretty well to let you zoom in on a target. You can use the wide-angle view to get an overall view of your surroundings, then click on the screen to adjust where the telephoto lens is pointing. Another click switches to the telephoto view and you can start snapping away.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Image quality

There's one very important thing that anyone using a smart telescope for the first time needs to understand: you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images straight out of the camera. Well, obviously, you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images at all; this is a $500 smart telescope, not a rig that costs 10 times that.

But even with that in mind, there's a big difference between the photos that the Dwarf III creates for you, and the results that you can achieve with some proper processing.

The easiest way to demonstrate that is with some before and after photos – so check out the gallery above. In every case, you'll see the unprocessed image produced by the Dwarf III first, followed by the version I processed in Pixinsight, the specialist astrophotography software I use.

Now, let's get one thing straight: I'm not an expert when it comes to astro image processing. It's an incredibly complex hobby, with sometimes arcane software to master and a surprisingly large amount of technical knowledge needed to really get the best results. In fact, I think I prefer some of the Dwarf III's images, at least when it comes to color – which is one of the toughest things to get right.

Regardless of what you think of my images (I won't be offended, promise), you can see that processing reduces noise and brings out more detail and color. To really get the best from the Dwarf III, you will still want to do some processing.

Fortunately, as mentioned above, it's pretty easy to considerably improve things within the Dwarf III's Stellar Studio on your phone, with no need to shell out for or learn anything more complicated.

For instance, try the above image of the glorious East Veil nebula – the original, unprocessed image is pretty good, but Stellar Studio turns it into something epic, and my Pixinsight version is only a slight improvement (if anything).

The Dwarf III's wide field of view really shines with this shot of the awesome Bubble Nebula (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

One of the things I really love about the Dwarf III is its wide 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, even when using the telephoto camera. The Seestar S50 has a much narrower 0.7x1.2-degree FOV, while the S30 is close to the Dwarf at 1.22x2.13-degree.

The net effect of this is that you get a real sense of drama with the Dwarf III. I love the Seestar S50, but with many targets you end up with a close-up of the object. You can get around this by using mosaic mode (the Dwarf also has one of these), but in my experience mosaics take longer to shoot and are harder to process.

The Dwarf, meanwhile, almost always captures the object and its surroundings. Its field of view is wide enough to cover the whole of Andromeda, for instance, whereas the S50 gets only the central section.

Of course you may prefer a closer view of targets, but the Dwarf's 4K resolution means you can crop in anyway and still have a decent-sized image. It's possible that the Seestar S30 will give me the FOV I love from the Dwarf with some of ZWO's advantages too, but I've not used that device yet, so that comparison will have to wait.

In general mode, image quality is fine. That's a pretty nice shot of a pigeon on my lawn above, but view the full-size image and you'll see the feathers lack definition. My Fujifilm X-T5 mirrorless camera would do a better job with a good zoom lens.

Solar photography, meanwhile, is easy to do – you simply snap on the filter then move to the target. Admittedly, for some reason the Dwarf finds it much harder to locate the sun than it does a tiny object many millions of light years away, but the Seestar S50 is no different in this regard.

I've only taken a few solar shots with the Dwarf III and was relatively impressed by them, but it's not an area of photography I'm particularly interested in.

Should I buy the DwarfLabs Dwarf III?

Buy it if…

You're a beginner
The Dwarf III is one of the easiest, most hassle-free ways to give astrophotography a whirl. Beginners will be taking photos of galaxies in no time.View Deal

You don't have much time
You can pick up the Dwarf III and have it shooting within minutes – which is great if you either have a busy life or are afflicted by cloudy skies. View Deal

You want to travel light
The Dwarf III is small enough to chuck in a bag and take away for a trip – and light enough that it won't break your back.View Deal

Don't buy it if…

You're an upgrader
The Dwarf III is unashamedly a beginner scope. Sure, it can take amazing photos, but after a year or two you may find yourself wanting to upgrade – and as this is an all-in-one device, that means buying a new model. View Deal

You want a tighter field of view
The Dwarf III's wide view is great for big targets, but you'll get a closer vision of small objects such as planetary nebulae with the Seestar S50.View Deal

You want to take photos of planets
As above, the Dwarf III's field of view makes it entirely unsuited to imaging Mars, Jupiter and the rest of the gang. You might see a small Saturn-shaped dot, but not much more. View Deal

Also consider

ZWO Seestar S50

The S50 has a longer focal length and bigger aperture than the Dwarf III, meaning you get a much closer view and a bit more detail. I own the S50 and have taken some wonderful photos with it – choosing between them is tough. Really it depends on which field of view you prefer. View Deal

ZWO Seestar S30

The S30 has the same focal length and a similar field of view to the Dwarf, but a smaller aperture. I've not used it, but I expect it to deliver similar – but probably slightly inferior – results to the Dwarf.View Deal

Unistellar Odyssey Pro

The Unistellar Odyssey Pro is in a different class of smart telescope entirely, with a price tag of $4,500 / £3,500 and far better specs in almost every regard. At this price you could get an impressive mount+telescope+camera set-up, though – so it's probably best suited to those who have more money than time.View Deal

How I tested the DwarfLabs Dwarf III

The Dwarf III smart telescope photographed on a rooftop terrace at night

The Dwarf III smart telescope on a roof terrace in Crete (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

I took the Dwarf III with me on vacation to Crete, Greece, where I was lucky enough to be staying in an apartment with a roof terrace – and in a country with clear skies every night. I used the smart telescope extensively over the next week or so, taking photos of multiple targets including the Eagle nebula, Omega nebula and Andromeda galaxy.

When I returned to the UK, I used it whenever I could, which unfortunately was not that often due to the clouds which blanket the nation for about three-quarters of every month. Here, I set it up alongside my ZWO Seestar S50, taking photos of the same subjects for the same amount of time so I could directly compare results.

I also tried it in EQ mode, in Solar mode, in General mode for a bit of nature photography and spent many hours processing the photos it produced in all modes.

I took the awesome Dwarf III smart telescope on vacation and captured some of my favorite space photos ever
1:00 pm |

Author: admin | Category: Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Two-minute review

The Dwarflabs Dwarf III smart telescope is a mini marvel. My first astrophotography set-up 10 years ago weighed more than 20kg / 44lbs – but this excellent little self-contained device comes in at a mere 1.3kg / 2.8lbs and is small enough to fit in airline carry-on luggage.

In fact, that's exactly what I did with it a few months ago, taking it with me on vacation to Greece. I've also used it extensively in my garden in the UK and compared it thoroughly to another smart telescope, the ZWO Seestar S50. And as you can see from my verdict and score above, I love it.

But I'm getting ahead of myself, so let's start with the basics.

The Dwarf III is one of the new breed of smart telescopes which simplify and automate the process of astrophotography to bring it to within easy reach of those without the time or money needed for a 'proper' set-up of mount, telescope and camera.

As with smart telescopes from rivals ZWO, Vaonis and Unistellar, the Dwarf III doesn't have an eyepiece you look through, and doesn't in any way resemble a classic telescope such as a reflector or refractor. Instead, it tracks objects in the night sky then takes photos of them and 'stacks' them.

This process increases the faint signal being captured in order to bring out details – because if you just looked at a single shot, you'd see very little beyond a few stars. The resulting image can be viewed in real-time as it develops on your phone's screen, which is essentially your eyepiece.

You can see it in action below, with the fuzzy object that's barely visible after five frames eventually becoming the recognizable Crescent Nebula after about 60 frames:

A gif showing the Dwarf III smart telescope's app during shooting, as the Crescent Nebula gradually appears

The Crescent nebula appearing in real time on my phone (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The Dwarf III has two lenses to capture its targets, one 35mm telephoto and one 3.4mm wide-angle – although the latter is mainly used for finding objects rather than shooting them.

The telephoto has a 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, which can fit the moon in it about six times and which has space for almost every galaxy and nebula you might want to capture. I go into this in more detail below, but this wide FOV is one of my favorite things about it.

Inside, there's a 4K IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor, which is on the budget end compared to that found within dedicated cooled astronomy cameras but which delivers excellent results, helped also by the fast f/4.3 f-ratio; this captures light more quickly than some rival smart scopes.

It's all controlled by the DwarfLab app, which gives you everything you need to take photos of the night skies without the need for you to do much more than choose your target and set it going. Even if you've never used a smart telescope – or any kind of telescope – before, you should be up and running within a few minutes.

In fact, roughly 20 minutes after taking it out of the box you could be viewing your first shot of wonderfully named objects such as the Elephant's Trunk nebula or Sombrero galaxy – the Dwarf III really is that easy to set up and use.

And when you do so, I'm pretty sure you'll be impressed, because the Dwarf III takes excellent photos given its small stature and low-ish price. It's truly one of the best ways into this fascinating hobby.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: price and availability

The Dwarf III smart telescope photographed in a garden, showing the front of the device

The Dwarf III is competitively priced for what it does – note you'll need to buy a tripod separately (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The DwarfLabs Dwarf III was released in May 2025 and is competitively priced, coming in at $549 / £459 / AU$849. Depending on where you are in the world, that's either slightly cheaper or the same price as one of its main rivals, the ZWO Seestar S50, which costs $549 / £539 / AU$949. Compared to the Seestar S30, which is a comparable size to the Dwarf III, it's more expensive though; that model comes in at $399 / £419 / AU$699.

It's also worth noting that unlike the two Seestar models, the Dwarf III doesn't come with a tripod. Many keen photographers and stargazers will already own one, but if not you can buy one with the telescope for an additional $89 / £73 / AU$149. Or, of course, you can add your own; we have plenty of good options in our list of the best travel tripods. Either way, that might bump up the price a little.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Specs

Aperture (tele)

35mm

Focal length (tele)

150 mm (737mm equivalent)

Aperture (wide)

3.4mm

Focal length (wide)

6.7mm (45mm equivalent)

Sensor

Sony IMX678 STARVIS 2

Resolution (stills)

Telephoto: 3840x2160 (4K); wide-angle: 1920x1080 (FHD)

Resolution (video)

Telephoto: 4K @ 30fps; wide-angle: 1080p @ 30fps

Filters (built in)

VIS, Astro, Dual-band

Mount type

Alt-azimuth and EQ mode

Accessories

USB-C cable, carry case, solar filter

Battery life

10,000mAh / 4 hours

Charging

USB-C

Storage

128GB

Dimensions

222x142x65mm

Weight

1.3 kg / 2.87 lbs

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Design

Looks-wise, the Dwarf III is about as far from a traditional telescope as you could get. Powered off, it resembles a beefy external hard drive from about 2010, but turn it on to reveal the twin lenses and it's more like some kind of futuristic security-camera-robot hybrid.

It's actually pretty cute, with a certain Wall-E charm about it (or maybe that's just me). Either way, it's well built: solid, with a smooth plastic finish and an IP54 rating that keeps it safe from dust, moisture and dew.

It's also impressively small – like, how-did-they-fit-all-that-in-there small, a feeling that only grows after you see what it's capable of. It's relatively light, too, at 1.3kg / 2.87lbs; that's almost half the 2.5kg of the Seestar S50 and a little less than the S30.

There's not a lot to look at, externally. Beyond those two lenses and the DwarfLab logo, there's the main power button – a big circular affair that's very easy to find in the dark and which has a glowing green ring around it – plus a battery status indicator of four green dots, and a single USB-C charging port. On the bottom, meanwhile, there's a 1/4-inch tripod thread.

It comes with an excellent carrying case, plus a couple of accessories: a USB-C charging cable, lens wipe cloth, plus a solar filter. The latter snaps on magnetically in a pleasing fashion, and comes with a pouch to keep it safe.

Design is all very well thought out and though it's a shame it doesn't come with a tripod, that's the only minus point in this regard. It's not a massive problem, either, because many of the telescope's intended customers will already have one, and it helps keep the price low.

I've been using either the Seestar S50's tripod or a K&F Concept 64in/163cm model which costs $49 in the US, £45 in the UK and AU$150 in Australia. This is light, sturdy and has a 360-degree ballhead which makes it very easy to angle the Dwarf III for EQ mode (of which more later).

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Features and performance

The Dwarf III smart telescope photographed in a garden, showing the front of the device with the solar filter attached

The included solar filter snaps on magnetically (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The Dwarf III is a feature-rich device, with a multitude of abilities and use cases.

Obviously the first of those is to take photos of the night skies, and it does that very well thanks to its 4K Sony IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor – the same type as used in some of the best dash cams, including the Thinkware U3000 Pro. Starvis 2 is particularly strong in low light, while the IMX678's 4K resolution gives you more pixels to work with when cropping in on small and distant objects.

The twin lenses are very helpful. The telephoto is what you'll take most of your images with, while the wide-angle one is mainly for locating objects in the first place; you can take photos with it too, but it has a much lower resolution.

I've got a full gallery of astro images taken with the telescope below, but for now here's just one, my favorite that I've shot with the device. It shows the Eagle Nebula, Messier 16, and if you zoom in on the middle you'll see the famous 'Pillars of Creation', the swirling clouds of dust and gas that wowed the world when the Hubble telescope shot them two decades ago.

The Eagle Nebula, processed in Pixinsight, and showing the Eagles of Creation in the center (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The Dwarf III has three internal filters. The most important is the dual-band filter, which targets the OIII (sulphur) and H⍺ (hydrogen) wavelengths – in layman's terms, this means it can capture more of the faint details in nebulae and reduce the impact of light pollution. There's also an astro filter, which extends into the infra-red range and which works best on galaxies and star clusters, and a 'VIS' filter which is used for daytime photography. All are easily selected within the Dwarf III's app; you don't need to physically attach anything.

Speaking of daytime photography, DwarfLabs make a big pitch around the telescope's usefulness around bird watching, and theoretically you could use it instead of a mirrorless camera and telephoto lens for any subject – just don't expect it to rival an expensive chunk of glass from Canon, Nikon or Sony.

The daytime photography ('General') mode includes burst and timelapse options, plus object tracking which I found to be a little hit and miss. 4K video can be recorded at up to 30fps, or 60fps if you switch to 1080p.

There's also a solar system mode for snapping the sun, moon and (theoretically) planets, plus a panorama mode. In Astro mode, meanwhile, you can shoot in either alt-azimuth or equatorial mode.

Performance-wise, the Dwarf III is pretty snappy to turn on and off, and slews to targets quickly and reasonably quietly; it makes less noise than the Seestar S50, for instance, although neither would be likely to wake even the lightest of sleepers next door.

In use, it's unerringly accurate in finding targets, zipping about the sky when you tell it where to go via the built-in star atlas.

It's also incredibly reliable when shooting. If the tracking on a motorized telescope is even a tiny bit off, you'll get star trails and the individual frame will be rejected and not included in the 'stack', potentially reducing detail in the final stacked image. With the Dwarf III, this almost never happened – I generally got around an 80-90% success rate, so if I shot a target for an hour, I'd get around 50 minutes' worth of photos. This is way better than my experience than shooting with the Seestar S50, where it can be more like 50% at times.

Plus, that's when shooting with 15-second exposures in alt-az mode; put it in EQ mode and you can get 30s shots with a similar success rate. This all makes it very easy to capture a lot of data on a target in a short time.

One of the few downsides is that the battery is not the biggest – only 10,000mAh, which is good for about 5 hours in astro mode when tracking and shooting a target, according to DwarfLab, and which was about right in my experience. You almost certainly won't get through a full night's shooting with it.

That said, I didn't put it to the test often, preferring instead to leave a much bigger power bank connected to it to ensure I got a full night's shooting. I tend to use Iniu power banks, which I've found to be very reliable and extremely well priced; the model below is well worth checking out and will triple the Dwarf III's capacity.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Software

Three screenshots from the Dwarf III's app showing various stages of the scheduling process

Scheduling on the Dwarf III is very simple (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The nature of a smart telescope means that all of your interactions with it will be via an app – it's not like you can look through as you can with an old-school reflector or refractor.

That puts a lot of pressure on the device's software to be slick and simple to use, and fortunately the Dwarf III's is just that – with a few caveats.

I began using the Dwarf III several months ago, and on my first few nights shooting with it found the interface to be a little confusing. It wasn't a horror show by any means, but it wasn't as intuitive as ZWO's Seestar app. For instance, I'd click on the big 'Photo' button front and center to start shooting a galaxy or nebula, then would realize that I'd have to go back in and select the 'Atlas' option to actually choose my target.

Settings for options such as exposure time, meanwhile, were hidden within a menu called 'Function' – which really didn't (to me) suggest 'Settings'. I got used to it all after a few nights, but it was a little more confusing than it could have been.

The good news is that DwarfLabs is continually updating the platform, and a recent update has massively improved the experience. Those settings are now within a menu named 'Parameter, which is far more sensible, and the Atlas is available from within the shooting screen. There's a simple toggle between the wide and telephoto cameras, whereas before you tapped the small one to change between them, but again without labelling. It's all much more slick and easy to use.

(Note that most of my images in this review are using the old version of the software, because there's not been a clear night in the UK for me to take further screenshots for what feels like about 15 years now. I'll update them soon.)

There's a scheduling feature within the app, which works as you'd want it to and which is better than the one in ZWO's app. This is a vital inclusion, because most people won't want to stay up all night – they'll want to set the Dwarf III running with a list of targets, then wake refreshed in the morning to a lovely collection of images.

A screenshot from the Dwarf III's app showing alignment achieved in EQ mode

It's very easy to get polar alignment in EQ mode via the Dwarf III app (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

Switching to EQ mode is also pretty trouble-free. For the uninitiated, this lets the Dwarf III rotate fully in sync with the skies, meaning you can take longer exposures than in standard alt-az mode. Anything longer than 30 seconds will need to be in EQ mode (the maximum exposure is two minutes) and in my experience it's best for 30 seconds too; alt-az mode is fine for 15s exposures.

The Dwarf III app guides you through the process of setting the telescope into EQ mode, telling you exactly which direction and what amount to adjust the tripod head by, and the whole thing only takes about five minutes, less if you haven't moved the tripod since the previous session.

Three screenshots from the Dwarf III's app showing the Stellar Studio processing suite

The Stellar Studio processing suite can get great results with very little effort (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

The included Stellar Studio software is also great. This lets you carry out basic processing actions on photos via the cloud, rather than needing to download them to your computer.

It's not exactly stacked with options, but does a really good job of reducing noise, sharpening stars and bringing out details. You can also remove stars entirely if you want that lovely clean view of a galaxy or nebula.

A screenshot showing the Dwarf III's photo mode using the wide-angle and telephoto cameras

The Dwarf III's wide-angle and telephoto cameras work well in General/Daytime mode (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

Finally, in 'General' mode the app works pretty well to let you zoom in on a target. You can use the wide-angle view to get an overall view of your surroundings, then click on the screen to adjust where the telephoto lens is pointing. Another click switches to the telephoto view and you can start snapping away.

DwarfLab Dwarf III: Image quality

There's one very important thing that anyone using a smart telescope for the first time needs to understand: you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images straight out of the camera. Well, obviously, you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images at all; this is a $500 smart telescope, not a rig that costs 10 times that.

But even with that in mind, there's a big difference between the photos that the Dwarf III creates for you, and the results that you can achieve with some proper processing.

The easiest way to demonstrate that is with some before and after photos – so check out the gallery above. In every case, you'll see the unprocessed image produced by the Dwarf III first, followed by the version I processed in Pixinsight, the specialist astrophotography software I use.

Now, let's get one thing straight: I'm not an expert when it comes to astro image processing. It's an incredibly complex hobby, with sometimes arcane software to master and a surprisingly large amount of technical knowledge needed to really get the best results. In fact, I think I prefer some of the Dwarf III's images, at least when it comes to color – which is one of the toughest things to get right.

Regardless of what you think of my images (I won't be offended, promise), you can see that processing reduces noise and brings out more detail and color. To really get the best from the Dwarf III, you will still want to do some processing.

Fortunately, as mentioned above, it's pretty easy to considerably improve things within the Dwarf III's Stellar Studio on your phone, with no need to shell out for or learn anything more complicated.

For instance, try the above image of the glorious East Veil nebula – the original, unprocessed image is pretty good, but Stellar Studio turns it into something epic, and my Pixinsight version is only a slight improvement (if anything).

The Dwarf III's wide field of view really shines with this shot of the awesome Bubble Nebula (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

One of the things I really love about the Dwarf III is its wide 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, even when using the telephoto camera. The Seestar S50 has a much narrower 0.7x1.2-degree FOV, while the S30 is close to the Dwarf at 1.22x2.13-degree.

The net effect of this is that you get a real sense of drama with the Dwarf III. I love the Seestar S50, but with many targets you end up with a close-up of the object. You can get around this by using mosaic mode (the Dwarf also has one of these), but in my experience mosaics take longer to shoot and are harder to process.

The Dwarf, meanwhile, almost always captures the object and its surroundings. Its field of view is wide enough to cover the whole of Andromeda, for instance, whereas the S50 gets only the central section.

Of course you may prefer a closer view of targets, but the Dwarf's 4K resolution means you can crop in anyway and still have a decent-sized image. It's possible that the Seestar S30 will give me the FOV I love from the Dwarf with some of ZWO's advantages too, but I've not used that device yet, so that comparison will have to wait.

In general mode, image quality is fine. That's a pretty nice shot of a pigeon on my lawn above, but view the full-size image and you'll see the feathers lack definition. My Fujifilm X-T5 mirrorless camera would do a better job with a good zoom lens.

Solar photography, meanwhile, is easy to do – you simply snap on the filter then move to the target. Admittedly, for some reason the Dwarf finds it much harder to locate the sun than it does a tiny object many millions of light years away, but the Seestar S50 is no different in this regard.

I've only taken a few solar shots with the Dwarf III and was relatively impressed by them, but it's not an area of photography I'm particularly interested in.

Should I buy the DwarfLabs Dwarf III?

Buy it if…

You're a beginner
The Dwarf III is one of the easiest, most hassle-free ways to give astrophotography a whirl. Beginners will be taking photos of galaxies in no time.View Deal

You don't have much time
You can pick up the Dwarf III and have it shooting within minutes – which is great if you either have a busy life or are afflicted by cloudy skies. View Deal

You want to travel light
The Dwarf III is small enough to chuck in a bag and take away for a trip – and light enough that it won't break your back.View Deal

Don't buy it if…

You're an upgrader
The Dwarf III is unashamedly a beginner scope. Sure, it can take amazing photos, but after a year or two you may find yourself wanting to upgrade – and as this is an all-in-one device, that means buying a new model. View Deal

You want a tighter field of view
The Dwarf III's wide view is great for big targets, but you'll get a closer vision of small objects such as planetary nebulae with the Seestar S50.View Deal

You want to take photos of planets
As above, the Dwarf III's field of view makes it entirely unsuited to imaging Mars, Jupiter and the rest of the gang. You might see a small Saturn-shaped dot, but not much more. View Deal

Also consider

ZWO Seestar S50

The S50 has a longer focal length and bigger aperture than the Dwarf III, meaning you get a much closer view and a bit more detail. I own the S50 and have taken some wonderful photos with it – choosing between them is tough. Really it depends on which field of view you prefer. View Deal

ZWO Seestar S30

The S30 has the same focal length and a similar field of view to the Dwarf, but a smaller aperture. I've not used it, but I expect it to deliver similar – but probably slightly inferior – results to the Dwarf.View Deal

Unistellar Odyssey Pro

The Unistellar Odyssey Pro is in a different class of smart telescope entirely, with a price tag of $4,500 / £3,500 and far better specs in almost every regard. At this price you could get an impressive mount+telescope+camera set-up, though – so it's probably best suited to those who have more money than time.View Deal

How I tested the DwarfLabs Dwarf III

The Dwarf III smart telescope photographed on a rooftop terrace at night

The Dwarf III smart telescope on a roof terrace in Crete (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)

I took the Dwarf III with me on vacation to Crete, Greece, where I was lucky enough to be staying in an apartment with a roof terrace – and in a country with clear skies every night. I used the smart telescope extensively over the next week or so, taking photos of multiple targets including the Eagle nebula, Omega nebula and Andromeda galaxy.

When I returned to the UK, I used it whenever I could, which unfortunately was not that often due to the clouds which blanket the nation for about three-quarters of every month. Here, I set it up alongside my ZWO Seestar S50, taking photos of the same subjects for the same amount of time so I could directly compare results.

I also tried it in EQ mode, in Solar mode, in General mode for a bit of nature photography and spent many hours processing the photos it produced in all modes.

Monopods have come a long way, and the Sirui SVM-145P takes this simple camera support to new heights
4:00 pm | November 7, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Camera Accessories Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

Sirui SVM-145P: two-minute review

Monopods are useful camera supports in a range of situations, and many tripods come with a detachable leg that can be converted into a monopod, a system that works extremely well. With this in mind, you might wonder why you'd need to buy a dedicated monopod. In a nutshell, the answer is that monopods like the Sirui SVM-145P bring something much more versatile and robust to the table.

Monopods are essentially a single tripod leg that can be used to provide stability, enabling you to shoot at slower shutter speeds than you could handheld. Plus, the SVM-145P has three metal feet to provide additional stability, making it perfect for video capture when you only need a simple camera support rather than the greater stability of a slower-to-use full-size video tripod.

As the name suggests, this is a monopod with a maximum height of 145cm, or 57.1 inches, while the P signifies ‘pedal’. The pedal is used to quickly release the lock at the bottom of the monopod to allow for 20 degrees of tilt and 360 degrees of rotation, providing the movement you need when the three metal feet are being used for stability.

An interesting feature is that there’s a friction control, which allows you to control how loose or restricted these two movements are. This is useful when shooting video because it allows for smoother pans and tilts.

You can, of course, attach a fluid tripod head for video and use this for panning rather than the monopod itself. My only criticism of the friction control is that the dial at the top of the feet section is itself stiff to turn. Stiff is good to avoid movements caused by accidental knocks, but it’s arguably too stiff.

You can, of course, keep the feet folded up, in which configuration the SVM-145P performs like a standard monopod with a rubber foot at the bottom that can also be rotated to reveal a spike. The feet can also be removed from the monopod, which reduces size and weight when you require only basic functionality.

Moving on to the minimum height of the SVM-145P, the minimum in monopod mode is 77cm / 30.3 inches, which isn’t particularly low. The SVM-145P, however, has another trick up its sleeve: quick-release feet and the mounting plate where a tripod head can be attached.

These can then be put together to create a desktop / mini tripod, which is roughly 20cm / 7.87 inches. The mounting plate also features a 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch self-adaptive thread to allow tripod heads with either thread size to be attached.

The desktop tripod's minimum height isn’t listed in the specs, only the minimum heights of the basic monopod and monopod-plus-feet configuration. Adding a tripod head to the feet with the base attached will inevitably increase the minimum height, but it remains low to the ground, or not too high when positioned on a desk or table. There’s no denying that it’s a useful and interesting feature for a monopod.

Operation of the SVM-145P is quick and easy, with a simple twist lock at the top for extending and retracting the monopod. Plus, there’s the quick-release mounting plate for switching between monopod and desktop modes.

The aim of this design is speed of operation, and it certainly achieves this. The ability to move the SVM-145P quickly and to easily set it up in seconds also makes it suitable for fast-paced shooting situations. It’s undoubtedly much quicker to set up than a tripod, for instance.

As far as monopods go, this one is pretty chunky, with the thickest tube having a 36mm / 1.42-inch diameter. The weight of the SVM-145P without a head is 1.49kg / 3.3lbs, so once a head is attached, it’s going to weigh as much as many travel tripods.

When you remove the metal feet, the overall weight is reduced by 720g / 1.6lbs. The maximum payload of the monopod is 10kg / 22lbs, which will include the tripod head if you attach one, but leaves plenty of room for many camera and lens combinations.

The SVM-145P doesn’t come with a head included. This frees you to choose your own head, as well as providing the ability to use different heads depending on what and how you’re shooting. This is standard in the world of mid-to-higher-end tripods and monopods, but more and more travel tripods come with a ball head included, which does reduce overall cost.

My biggest issues with the SVM-145P are that it weighs as much as some travel tripods that have multi-functionality, including monopod and desktop tripod modes, and the cost. The build quality and functionality are fantastic for a monopod, but it also costs the same as many travel tripods, which also come with a head included.

Sirui SVM-145P: key specs

Head

Purchased separately

Leg sections

Three

Height

770mm – 1450mm / 30.3 inches – 57.1 inches

Weight

1.53kg / 3.4lbs

Max Payload

10kg / 22.04lbs

Material

Carbon fiber

Sirui SVM-145P: Price and availability

The Sirui SVM-145P is available now and costs $274 / £239, which puts it in a similar price range to many travel tripods, and the SVM-145P doesn’t even include a tripod head. You can use the monopod without a head, which is ideal when using it to support larger telephoto lenses, but for general photo and video capture a tripod head does improve handling and control.

With this in mind, the SVM-145P is quite expensive. On the other hand, it’s much more feature-packed than a basic monopod or one that’s just a converted tripod leg. If you’re looking for a high-quality monopod and will get plenty of use from it, this could be a fantastic option to consider. If, however, you only need to use a monopod occasionally, you might be better off with a cheaper alternative.

There are also several other monopods available in the SVM range, with different heights, with and without the foot pedal that allows you to switch between a locked monopod and pan and tilt movements when the feet are in use. This means you can choose the height and functionality that works best for you, but as the model that loosely sits in the middle, the SVM-145P is likely to be one of the more popular options in the range.

Sirui SVM-145P: Also consider

Peak Design Pro Tripod

There are three Peak Design Pro Tripod models available, and this excellent travel tripod doesn't come cheap. Its design allows for a compact folded size, while optional ‘mods’ allow you to increase video functionality if required.

Read our Peak Design Pro Tripod review

Heipi 3-in-1 Travel Tripod

The Heipi 3-in-1 Travel Tripod is a small and lightweight travel tripod featuring an innovative design, and the ability to support multiple camera types, including smartphones. The tripod also incorporates a mini tripod into the overall design, adding to its usefulness when traveling.

Read our Heipi 3-in-1 Travel Tripod review

Should I buy the Sirui SVM-145P?

Sirui SVM-145P monopod

(Image credit: James Abbott)

Buy it if...

You need speed

This monopod can be operated quickly and provides the support you need in a range of shooting situations.

You need portability

If you don’t need the full support of a tripod, monopods are often more compact, although this one is as heavy as travel tripods.

Don't buy it if...

You need greater support

If you need full camera support for capturing long exposures, for example, you’ll need a tripod rather than a monopod.

You’re on a budget

If you’re on a budget, you can buy cheaper and more basic monopods. Plus, many tripods have a convertible leg for monopod use.

How I tested the Sirui SVM-145P

  • I tested it in all configurations
  • I used it with different camera and lens combinations
  • I tested it with and without a tripod head

I tested the Sirui SVM-145P for more than a week in situations when a monopod is the most appropriate solution, using it to capture both a range of photographic subjects and video. I also tested it alongside a travel tripod, so that I could directly compare the pros and cons of each system.

First reviewed October 2025

I tested Nikon’s updated 24-70mm f/2.8 pro zoom for a month, and it’s a 5-star lens by every metric
6:30 pm | November 6, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Camera Lenses Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II: one-minute review

Nikon's Z-mount mirrorless cameras system has come of age – seven years since its first Z-mount cameras, we now have its first second-generation lens, the Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II, which is designed to replace the original Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S.

I have a particular personal interest in this new lens, because I've relied on the original for personal and professional work for several years, and I'm still completely happy with it today.

So the question I had going into this review was not whether this lens would be any good – I knew it was going to be a five-star performer. Rather, it's whether it gives users of the original like me enough of a reason to upgrade, and whether it's worth the extra outlay.

I'll cut to the chase and say I don't think it is... depending on the price difference. I've reviewed enough second-generation Sony lenses where I've seen genuine improvement – new lenses that are optically sharper, plus much smaller and lighter. Nikon's new 24-70mm boasts similar improvements, but for me Nikon hasn't quite gone far enough with the upgrades, given the big difference in price at launch and the already excellent quality of the original.

Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II lens in user's hand, with autumnal lake background

(Image credit: Tim Coleman)

Still, the Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II is a five-star lens by every metric. Its optical and build quality are top drawer, with edge-to-edge pin sharpness at any focal length, impressive control over lens distortion, and smooth rendering of bokeh.

Build quality impresses, too. Its weather-resistant design betters the original in one key way – zoom is internal, which is one less potential weak spot for dust and water to enter the lens internals.

The original lens is in fact slightly smaller in length, but it extends past the new lens as you zoom up to 70mm. For me, the internal zoom, snappier autofocus, lighter weight and moderately sharper detail are the biggest upgrades, but not enough of a reason to spend so much extra now, rather than waiting for potential price cuts or until the original is phased out.

Price considerations aside, you'll struggle to find a better-quality professional lens, with a versatile 24-70mm zoom and consistent f/2.8 aperture across that range – this is a five-star performer all the way, and key new addition to the Nikon Z lens range.

Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II: price and availability

  • Priced at $2,799 / £2,599 / AU$4,599
  • Lens hood included
  • Announced in August 2025

Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II lens mounted to a tripod with autumnal lake background

(Image credit: Tim Coleman)

Nikon's Nikkor Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II lens was announced in August 2025, costing $2,799 / £2,599 / AU$4,599, lens hood included. At the time of writing the lens has already got its first price cuts in the US and UK where it's now $2,599 / £2,299.

At the time of the mark II's launch, the original 24-70mm lens was already on sale for $2,099 / £1,999, while you can also buy that lens secondhand from trustworthy retailers for much, much less, with prices depending on the condition.

Personally, I'd buy the original secondhand in excellent condition for around 30% less than the mark II new at its current sale price. However, if money is no object for you, then the new lens is of course the better choice of the two.

Nikkor Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II specs

Nikkor Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II specs

Type:

Standard zoom

Mount:

Z-mount

Sensor:

Full-frame

Focal length:

24-70mm

Max aperture:

f/2.8

Minimum focus:

0.79ft / 0.24 m at 24mm, 1.09ft / 0.33 m at 70mm with a 0.32x max magnification

Filter size:

77mm

Dimensions:

3.4in x 5.6 inches / 84mm x 142mm

Weight:

1.49lbs / 675g

Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II: Design

  • Lightest lens of its kind, just 675g
  • Weather-resistant design, internal zoom
  • Multiple control rings, including a clicked / de-clicked

The 24-70mm f/2.8 is a classic standard zoom and essential offering in a professional mirrorless camera system, historically sitting in the middle of a trio of professional f/2.8 zooms – the other two usually being a 14-24mm f/2.8 and 70-200mm f/2.8.

When I bought my first mirrorless camera, the Nikon Z6 II, I chose the original Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S as my first lens. Such is its quality and versatility that it ended up being the only lens I owned for years, until I splurged on a fast-aperture telephoto prime.

I didn't think the original 24-70mm needed updating – it's such a good lens already. However, the mark II is the first second-generation Z-mount lens, and it does indeed upgrade the original in several ways.

In terms of design, the Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II is the lightest of its kind, just 675g – that's approximately 16% lighter than the 805g original. I used both lenses together and I can't say I noticed the difference particularly, even over a long day of event photography. However, that is a decent drop in weight.

The new lens's diameter is slimmer than before, too, with a 77mm filter thread to the original's 82mm. However, the new lens is longer than the original – that is when both lenses are set to the 24mm focal length.

Zoom each lens to 70mm, and that's where the difference kicks in – the new lens has an internal zoom, meaning its dimensions are unchanged as you move through the zoom range (see above), whereas the original lens extends past its successor as you zoom in.

For me, the internal zoom is the single biggest upgrade in the new lens, not only for better balance, but improved ruggedness – it's one less potential point of weakness in terms of dust and dirt ingress. Also, being shorter at 70mm, it's less likely to knock against your surroundings, which is helpful for hectic environments like weddings and events. You can see how the two lenses differ in length below.

We lose the basic top LED, which on the original could display key lens settings, including focus distance. In practice, it's not a feature that I particularly missed. Instead, we gain a control ring which can be set to clicked or de-clicked – I suspect most users will set this ring to control aperture. There's three rings in all; zoom, focus and that custom ring.

There's a reassuring quality to the lens, despite its lightweight design – each ring, button and switch handles well. And it balances perfectly with the Nikon Z6 III, which is the camera I was testing the lens with. By extension, it'll be a decent fit with the Z8 and Z9 cameras, too.

A lens hood is supplied with the lens, and it features a hatch. The idea is that when the hatch is open, it's much easier to make on the go adjustments to a filter, say a variable ND for video recording.

On that note, there is a general sense that the mark II version of the lens is better designed for video work. Autofocus is speedier – more on that shortly – focus breathing is suppressed, and there's that de-clicked aperture control ring for smooth adjustments while recording.

Close focusing is also improved – the minimum focus distance depends on the focal length, but the maximum magnification is 0.32x – that's an improvement from the original's 0.22x, and suitable for close up details such as wedding rings, without being a proper macro lens.

Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II: Performance

  • Incredibly sharp edge to edge
  • Smooth bokeh and impressive control of all lens distortions
  • Versatile maximum f/2.8 aperture and snappy autofocus

I've taken a wide range of photos in various scenarios with the lens attached to a Nikon Z6 III (with all in-camera lens corrections turned off), using the various aperture settings and focal lengths. Put simply, the Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II is optically flawless, save for a light fall-off at f/2.8 (vignetting, which I rather like).

Detail is pin-sharp from center to edges. For reference, I compared like-for-like images shot with the original, and the new lens has the edge (I'm also working on a versus piece between the two lenses where I will share comparison images, coming soon). You'll need to zoom in to 100% to appreciate the difference, but it is there. I wouldn't feel the need to apply any sharpness corrections when editing the images, whereas with the original I tend to apply a little.

Bokeh quality is similar between both lenses. Sure, you'll want a f/1.4 prime or faster for bigger bokeh, but bokeh rendering at f/2.8 is pleasantly smooth and free of any distortion.

What's all the more impressive is that optical quality is better despite what is a simpler optical design – the new lens has 14 elements in 10 groups, compared to the original's 17 elements in 15 groups (this also partly explains the lighter weight of the new lens).

Photos I took in woodland with strong backlighting at f/2.8 are free from chromatic aberration – a distortion I'd expect to see in such a scenario with lesser-quality lenses. In the same scenario with the lens aperture stopped down to f/16, the lens rendered a crisp sunstar (you can see those two photos in the gallery, above).

Only when I pointed the camera straight towards the sun for a backlit selfie could I get any kind of lens flare – that's not a lens drawback, just an impossible situation I presented the lens with, and better lighting required!

Focus breathing is really well controlled, while autofocus performance is superb too. There's no sense of laboring – the lens snappily latches onto subjects, especially when paired with the Z6 III and making use of that camera's subject-detection tracking autofocus skills.

Combine that optical quality, decent close-focusing skills and speedy autofocus, and the Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II is an impressive performer on all fronts.

Should you buy the Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II?

Buy it if...

You want a versatile professional zoom lens

The 24-70mm zoom range and maximum f/2.8 aperture cover off a huge range of scenarios.

You shoot events and weddings

That maximum f/2.8 aperture, fast autofocus skills and robust build are a dream combo for the rigors of event and wedding photography.

Don't buy it if...

You own the original 24-70mm f/2.8

Yes, there are a few improvements, but I don't think this new mark II version merits the financial hit of an upgrade at full price; it'll be a different story when its price drops.

You don't mind a secondhand saving

The original 24-70mm f/2.8 can be purchased secondhand for around 30% less than its successor's list price – that feels like the better deal.

Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II lens in user's hand, with another Nikon lens mounted to a tripod with autumnal lake background

(Image credit: Tim Coleman)

How I tested the Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II

  • I tested it for one month
  • I paired it with the Nikon Z6 III and Nikon ZR cameras
  • I used it for photography and video, both indoors and out

Nikon loaned me the Nikkor Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II lens for a month, and during this time I've used it for event, portraiture and landscape photography, and as an everyday lens. I've also shot video with it.

I've made direct comparisons with my own 24-70mm f/2.8 S lens to see to what degree Nikon has improved on the original.

I've made sure to take images using various aperture settings and focal lengths, with all in-camera lens corrections switched off, and compared those images to check for any lens distortions and assess bokeh quality.

  • First reviewed November 2025
I tested Kodak’s cheap and cheerful PixPro C1 compact camera – it was like going back in time, and not in a good way
4:00 pm | November 5, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Cameras Compact Cameras Computers Gadgets | Tags: | Comments: Off

Kodak PixPro C1: Two-minute review

Compact cameras are suddenly trending, including simple pocket-sized point and shoot cameras, and Kodak is riding the wave with the PixPro C1. It’s pretty, it’s cheap and it looks like the perfect antidote to complex mirrorless cameras or expensive smartphones. But can a camera this cheap be any good?

Sadly, it doesn’t take long to answer that question. The PixPro C1 is pretty plasticky, as you would expect at this price, but it looks the part and it has a flip-up selfie screen and a basic but effective set of controls that makes it easy to use. It’s what’s inside that’s the problem.

The C1 uses a very small 13MP 1/1.3-inch sensor of unknown vintage that exhibits all the characteristics of old point and shoot cameras that we’ve conveniently forgotten, with image quality that’s OK in good light but rapidly disintegrates if you need to use a higher ISO in low light or if you use the digital zoom.

Kodak PixPro C1

The PixPro C1 looks smart, but inside is a tiny 13MP sensor and a digital, not optical zoom. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Yes, it’s a digital zoom not an optical one. The tiny sensor’s image quality is already stretched to the limit in perfect conditions, so the digital zoom just magnifies its limitations. At the maximum 4x zoom setting you get photos that might look OK on a phone screen, but not so much on a tablet and definitely not in a print. You really are better off sticking to the native focal length, and at 26mm equivalent, this is pretty wide, much like the main camera on a phone.

This camera’s other major issue is its slow response. The single (center) point autofocus can take half a second or a second to lock on, and when you press the shutter release there’s a further delay of a second while the screen goes black… and then you get the shutter sound. It’s very difficult to time your exposures with moving subjects, and the Kodak’s slim, slippery shape makes it difficult to keep it steady – there’s no image stabilization.

So from the outside the Kodak PixPro C1 is quite smart, but inside it uses tech that could have come straight from an old phone or a very cheap point and shoot compact from ten years ago. It’s very disappointing.

Kodak PixPro C1: price

  • Priced at $99 / £79 / AU$154
  • USB cable and wrist strap included
  • Available now

The Kodak PixPro C1 sells for around $99 / £79 (about AU$154). That doesn’t sound much for a fully-functioning pocket-sized digital camera, but it’s quite a lot to spend on something that you end up not using because your smartphone is so much better. That price doesn’t include a memory card, though our sample included a microSD card and card reader, so bundles may vary.

Kodak PixPro C1: specs

Kodak PixPro C1 specs

Type:

Pocket sized compact camera

Sensor:

13MP 1/1.3-in CMOS

Lens:

3.57mm (26mm equivalent) f/2, up to 4x digital zoom

Focus range:

0.6m-infinity, 0.08m macro

ISO:

100-1600

Video

1920x1080 up to 60fps

Storage:

microSD, up to 32GB

EVF:

No

Stabilization:

No

Flash/light:

Built in

Screen:

180-degree tilting, 2.8-in, 230k-dot

Battery:

Built in, non-removable, 200 shots approx.

Size:

103 x 60 x 20.3mm, 115g

Kodak PixPro C1: design

  • Slim, light, smart styling
  • Plasticky feel but solid enough at the price
  • Memory card slot exposed in the base – no door
  • Phone-style LED ‘flash’

Kodak PixPro C1

The Kodak's rear screen flips upwards to face the front, so it's ideal for selfies. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak PixPro C1

The menu system has only a few basic options, but that's ideal for a beginner audience. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak PixPro C1

The battery is good for around 200 shots. It's non-removable, so you charge it via the USB-C port on the side. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak PixPro C1

The PixPro C1 takes micro SD cards up to 32GB. Unusually, they just slot into the base, with no door or cover. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

We forget how small point and shoot cameras used to be! The Kodak PixPro C1 will easily slip into a shirt pocket or a trouser pocket, and because it weighs just 115g, you’ll hardly know it’s there. It’s available in a black or tan or brown finish – mine came in brown, and it does look pretty classy.

It does feel plasticky when you pick it up, however, especially round the back where the screen and the controls are. The top edge of the screen has a hinge so that you can flip it up to face forward for selfies, and to the right you’ve got a four-way controller, menu, playback, mode and record buttons, plus a rocker for the zoom.

You can shoot in full auto mode, switch to program mode for a little more control, or use a small selection of ‘scene’ modes. The menu button displays options for picture styles, metering pattern, resolution (just in case you want less than 13 megapixels!), white balance and continuous versus single shot mode. The menus are basic but clear.

There is a built in flash – well, sort of, as it’s actually a phone-style LED, but that’s fine. Underneath, in the base of the camera, you’ll find the memory card slot, which takes microSD cards. There’s no door or cover of any sort – the card just pushes into the slot, where it’s flush with the base so you can still stand the camera on a flat surface.

It’s all very basic but effective, and exactly what you would expect from a cheap camera. It’s not too daunting for beginners, either.

Kodak PixPro C1: performance

  • Sluggish shutter action
  • Poor image quality at higher ISOs
  • Digital zoom not worth using
  • Autofocus struggles/fails in low light

The Kodak PixPro C1 delivers decent enough image quality in good light, but not really on a par with a modern smartphone. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

The metering system did a good job with the tricky lighting in this shot. The brightest parts of the sky might be a little blown out, but you can see all the detail in the foreground. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

The sensor can go up to ISO 1600, but by this point any fine detail in the image has been swallowed up by heavy noise reduction. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Physically, the PixPro C1 is pretty decent at this price. It’s the performance that’s disappointing. You could argue that you shouldn’t expect much for this money, but there comes a point where a product just isn’t good enough to use, regardless of how cheap it is, and the PixPro C1 sails pretty close to the wind here.

Before you even get to look at its images, its operation feels very vague and sluggish. The AF is not particularly quick, but the worst part is the shutter action, which takes about a second to complete and only makes a shutter sound at the end. This is not a camera for fast action or grabbed shots. Not only that, the rear screen gets quite hard to see in bright light.

It's best to use the PixPro at its native 26mm equivalent zoom setting, which is pretty wide and a bit like the main camera on a smartphone. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

With smaller subjects like this, you can switch to the macro mode to get a whole lot closer. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

As for the pictures… well, it depends on what you are expecting. The resolution, dynamic range and noise are just what you would expect from a small sensor of the old days, and not a patch on what a modern smartphone camera array would produce. In good outdoor light where you don’t need a higher ISO and there’s little risk of camera shake, the images are OK. But in poor light at higher ISOs the detail smudges and object edges become hyper-processed and things aren’t good at all.

Just so that you can get an idea of what the digital zoom does, here is a shot taken without the zoom. Sorry about the weather, by the way. I live in the seaside tow Weston-super-Mare in the UK. This is what it looks like between October and March... (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Kodak PixPro C1 sample image

Here is the same subject captured with the 4x digital zoom. Click the gadget, bottom left of the photo, to see the full size version if you dare. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

If you do use the zoom, you quickly realize that the 13MP sensor really can’t stand a lot of cropping. Or any cropping, to be honest.

I did try the ‘flash’ indoors. There’s nothing wrong with the illumination it provides, but it only comes on when the camera has focused, and in my tests the autofocus struggled if it was too dark, and without sharp focus the flash wasn’t much help.

Kodak PixPro C1 sample image

The inbuilt lamp does a good job of illuminating indoor scenes. Unfortunately, it was too dark for the AF system to focus, so the shot isn't sharp. (Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Should you buy the Kodak PixPro C1?

Kodak PixPro C1

(Image credit: Rod Lawton)

Buy it if...

You just need a cheap camera

The PixPro C1 makes a certain amount of sense as a basic camera you don’t need to worry about for school trips, as a gift, or as a ‘just in case’ camera to keep in your vehicle’s glovebox or your coat pocket

You want a lightweight pocket camera

The Kodak is lighter than a smartphone, probably won’t fall out of your pocket as easily and has a simple clarity of purpose that a lot of people like in their gadgets

You want to relive those retro point-and-shoot years

This is a big thing at the moment, as modern photographers yearn for the simplicity of the old days and the flawed but characterful look of old digital cameras. If character is the word

Don't buy it if...

You’re expecting modern digital quality

The PixPro C1 uses very old, very basic sensor technology that would have earned it a bit of a roasting even ten years ago

You want a cheap and effective ‘street snapper’

The Kodak’s responses are way too slow for any kind of ‘snap reaction’ photography. It’s actually quite difficult to time your shots, and you have to hope your subjects will wait

You need the versatility of a zoom

I’ve seen the PixPro C1 advertised (mistakenly) in some places as having a 4x ‘optical’ zoom. It doesn’t. It’s digital, and the sensor really doesn’t have the resolution or quality to make the digital zoom feature useful.

Also consider

Akaso Brave Lite

Yes, the Akaso Brave Lite is an action, camera, but hear me out. It’s small, it’s rugged, it takes 20MP stills and shoots 4K video. An action camera is like a point and shoot but with added versatility. The Brave Lite doesn’t even cost a whole lot more than the PixPro C1.

Read our Akaso Brave Lite review

CampSnap camera

Think the Kodak PixPro C1 is cheap? How about the cheaper-still CampSnap camera? It's essentially a digital reimagining of the single-use disposable film cameras, with a memory card already inside that can hold up to 2,000 pictures.

Read our CampSnap camera review

Fujifilm X Half

The Fujifilm X Half is perfect if you’re serious about re-living those retro shooting vibes and you don’t want to take a big drop in image quality and responsiveness. Yes, it costs a LOT more than the PixPro C1, but it will take far better pictures and probably give you a lot more pleasure.

Read our Fujifilm X Half review

How I tested the Kodak PixPro C1

Kodak PixPro C1

(Image credit: Rod Lawton)
  • I tested it over a period of two weeks
  • I tried it with a variety of subjects and lighting conditions
  • I also assessed its responsiveness and ease of use

I’ve had the Kodak PixPro C1 for a couple of weeks, which has given me the chance to try it out in all kinds of situations where a camera like this might be used, including outdoor shots, close-ups, indoor scenes and pet pictures. I wanted to give it every chance to show what it could do and how it would react to typical point and shoot situations.

Obviously I wasn’t expecting top image quality, just pictures that were good enough for the purpose. I did feel the Kodak needed to prove it was better than a smartphone or at least as good. Most poeple already have a smartphone with a decent camera, so the Kodak did need to bring something else to the table.

It’s not just the image quality that’s important, but overall handling, usability and responsiveness, and that’s how I approached the PixPro C1.

  • First reviewed November 2025
It’s far from perfect, but Lomography’s cheap Lomourette compact camera is packed with grainy lo-fi analog charm
3:16 pm | November 3, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Cameras Compact Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

Two-minute review

The Lomography Lomourette is a compact half-frame camera built for the fun of film photography. Lightweight, inexpensive and simple, it strips the analog shooting experience down to its creative essentials. With a fixed f/8 plastic lens, manual focus dial and two-position shutter speed lever, it’s all about finding the joy and beauty in imperfection.

In the hand, it feels every bit a toy camera. The build borders on cheap and there’s little in the way of refinement, with no aperture control or metering. What you’re getting here is a cheerful camera that embraces experimentation. The film advance wheel, for example, is independent of the shutter release, which allows for intentional or accidental double exposures.

Then you’ve got the half-frame format itself. Doubling the image count from 36 to 72, it allows you to squeeze twice the entertainment from a single roll of 35mm film, by shooting two vertical stills that sit side-by-side in the same area as a standard photo.

In use, the Lomourette can be both delightful and unpredictable. When you nail the exposure and focus distance for a given scene, it produces pleasantly grainy stills with realistic colors and surprisingly good contrast. Shot on Kodak Ultramax 400, images benefited from natural skin tones and the genuine haze of analog nostalgia, rather than a stylized recreation. The 24mm lens isn’t the sharpest, but it’s still capable of rendering impressively crisp detail and edges.

But shooting with the Lomourette also requires patience and a sense of humor. Loading film is fiddly, the focus adjustment dial is crude and the viewfinder doesn’t exactly match what the lens sees. Framing errors, light leaks and accidental overlaps are all part of the creative ride. You’re guaranteed to lose exposures along the way, usually due to under- or over-exposure. The pay-off is that the good ones capture memories with a rich, attractive look, while the happy accidents have a distinct charm of their own.

That’s not to say there aren’t frustrations. The detachable Diana+ flash is inconsistent, sometimes refusing to fire even when the ready light glows. Exposure control is entirely manual, so you’ll need to choose film that suits your shooting conditions: ISO 200 or 400 is best for bright daylight, while the Bulb mode can be used for long exposures if you’ve got a steady hand.

Ultimately, the Lomourette isn’t for perfectionists. It’s aimed at those who value spontaneity over total control. This is a budget plaything for film newcomers, experimental shooters and anyone who wants to rediscover the joy of photography without the pressure of technical mastery. It’s a low-stakes way to play with film and embrace the magic of analog unpredictability.

If you’re after a dependable film camera that delivers consistently sharp, perfectly exposed images, you’ll want to look elsewhere. But if you like the idea of a pocketable, characterful camera that makes every frame a small surprise, the Lomography Lomourette is a refreshingly care-free reminder of what makes film photography fun.

Lomography Lourette: price and availability

The Lomography Lourette costs $69 / £65 and is available now, in multiple colorways, through the Lomography website and other retailers. The Diana+ flash is bundled with the camera, as are colored gel filters.

Lomography Lomourette: specs

Lens:

24mm plastic lens

Focus:

0.6m, 1–2m, 2–4m, ∞ (infinity)

Lens Aperture:

f/8

Shutter Speed:

1/60sec, Bulb (B)

Film Format:

half-frame (using 35mm film)

Flash:

Yes, with Diana F+ attachment

Power source:

1x AA battery

Weight:

3.9oz / 110g

Lomography Lomourette: design

Compact, bright and light, the Lomography Lomourette feels more like a toy than a serious photography tool. That’s entirely the point: this is a playful analog camera that comes in on a tight budget. Like the original Diana camera of the Sixties, the Lomourette’s body and lens are made of plastic, with no frills to sweeten the deal.

There’s some rounded detailing up top and a textured effect on the main body, but little about the Lomourette feels premium. It weighs next to nothing and there’s a sense of bargain basement about the assembly. That said, it also somehow feels robust enough to survive at the bottom of a family backpack. And if it doesn’t, the low cost means you’re unlikely to lose sleep over it.

Controls here are kept deliberately simple. There’s a shutter speed lever to toggle between normal (1/60sec) and bulb for long exposures, alongside a shutter release lever to the photographer’s right. On the front of the lens is a rotating dial which can switch focus between four subject distances: 0.6m, 1-2m, 2-4m and infinity. What you don’t get is any control over the aperture. Unlike other Lomography cameras, the lens here is fixed at f/8.

On the top plate, you’ll find a mount for the Diana+ flash attachment, as well as a film advance wheel. The latter operates independently from the shutter. That means you can fire off multiple exposures on the same frame, intentionally or otherwise. It’s a creative feature, but also one of several quirks that can trip up beginners. If you don’t want fully or partially overlayed exposures, you’ll need to make sure you’ve fully wound on between shots.

The flash itself is a detachable unit powered by a single AA battery, its two prongs slotting neatly into their dedicated holes. In keeping with the camera’s pared-back personality, the flash doesn’t feature any kind of exposure or intensity control. It’s either on or off, although you do at least get a ready indicator and the option to test-fire first.

Everything is easy enough to find your way around with your fingers, even if the amount of play in the controls is testament to the cost cap. Bigger digits may also find it difficult to rotate the focus distance dial: rather than gripping the outer edge of the lens, you need to get your tips into the inner section and twist, which is easier said than done.

Loading film can also be tricky. Due to the small size of the teeth on the take-up spool, getting the film leader to catch can take a few tries. Likewise, the rewind lever needs to be perfectly aligned with the canister before the back panel and main body can be latched back together using the door switch. It all becomes a bit easier once you’re familiar with the process, but it’s a reminder that loving the Lomourette requires a little patience.

As you’d expect from a budget film camera, the viewfinder isn’t linked to the lens. This makes it easy to accidentally shoot with the lens cap still on. Even when it’s off, the viewfinder only gives a modest window for your eye to work with, and what it shows doesn’t perfectly reflect what’s being framed by the lens.

These are just some of the facets which increase the margin for error when using the Lomourette. They arguably add to its character: you can’t use it expecting the precision of a digital camera or the sophistication of a more advanced film compact. Instead, the Lomourette rewards a relaxed approach, where missed exposures and happy accidents are part of the creative process.

The half-frame format is a perfect fit for this fun-first ethos. It doubles your exposures from 36 to 72 on a standard roll of 35mm film, splitting each frame into two portrait shots. That makes it great for storytelling in pairs or simply getting more value from your film. It also makes the resulting images half the size, which helps to hide any shortcomings in the optical quality.

Lomography Lomourette: performance

Like many of Lomography’s cameras, the Lomourette is more about feel than fidelity. Yet despite its plastic lens, many of the stills it produces are real keepers. While its image quality was never going to rival that of a more serious film camera, I was pleasantly surprised by how much contrast and clarity it captured.

Shoot in bright daylight and you’ll find that the Lomourette often delivers an attractive balance of realism tinged with nostalgia. Shadows and highlights are rendered with more depth than expected, while colors come through with a surprisingly natural hue, particularly skin tones.

Shooting on Kodak Ultramax 400, I found that stills have the quality of real memories from the mind’s eye: not too tinted, just an honest – if slightly warm and fuzzy – record of the scene. It stops short of the rose-tinted romanticism you encounter with some of the best instant cameras, leaning instead into the honest, grainy character of film.

The Lomourette’s 24mm lens doesn’t resolve a huge amount of detail, but it’s not as soft as you might expect. Nail the focus distance and you can get clean, defined edges. I shot stills sharp enough that text on clothing or the rim of a coffee cup stood out clearly, even through the haze of film grain. Zoom in and there’s enough detail to crop a single half-frame for sharing or use as a phone wallpaper.

That said, consistency isn’t the Lomourette’s strong suit. Exposure can vary wildly between frames, especially when lighting conditions change. Some shots are washed out, others underexposed. That’s just part of the deal. Without a light meter, it’s down to you to read the scene and shoot according to your film and the available light. ISO 200 or 400 is a good starting point. The ‘normal’ shutter speed of 1/60sec is just about fast enough for handheld shooting in daylight. Indoors, you’ll either need to use the flash or shoot a long exposure with the bulb mode.

My hit rate was probably 60%, with the rest affected by errors. Many of these were simply too dark or blown-out to be usable. But other shots with technical issues proved to be unexpectedly artistic. For example, overlapping frames produced layered compositions that felt intentional even when they weren’t, with shadows and light streaks crossing the border between stills.

Focus adjustment is fiddly but functional. The four-step dial is imprecise and tricky to twist, but it works well enough. Even when the focus isn’t perfect, gentle blurring adds to the lo-fi aesthetic. Soft fuzz provides a patina that complements the richness of the results, with slight barrel distortion adding further character. This is a camera that celebrates imperfection.

The only real frustration was the flash. When it fired, the detachable Diana+ flashgun produced a burst of light that gave life to low-light stills, particularly close-up indoor portraits. But despite testing its functionality and ensuring the ready indicator light was lit, there were several occasions where it simply didn’t fire, resulting in wasted exposures.

For such a simple camera, the Lomourette gets you thinking about film speed and shooting conditions. It would be easy to feel frustrated by the shots lost to errors. Yet playing with it isn’t meant to be about technical perfection. If you’re willing to surrender to the process and celebrate the attractive analog shots it does yield, the Lomourette is a lot of fun to shoot with.

Should I buy the Lomography Lomourette?

Lomography Lomourette half-frame film camera on a park bench

(Image credit: Chris Rowlands)

Buy it if...

You want grainy retro stills
Results from the Lomourette are packed with analog charm. Lovely rich colors, hazy focus and lashings of grain give images the attractive vintage quality many associate with film nostalgia.

You want to maximise every roll
The half-frame setup lets you squeeze 72 stills from a standard roll of 35mm film, while the option of multiple exposures means you can stack even more on top.

You want a cheap film camera
With a basic interface and bargain build, the Lomourette is an affordable film camera that’s ideal for everyday use. Stick it in a backpack and you shouldn’t be too worried about what happens to it.

Don't buy it if...

You want a premium film camera
The Lomourette comes cheap and that’s reflected in the build quality. The lightweight camera body feels plasticky in the hand, as does the shutter release lever and film advance wheel.

You need foolproof performance
Its controls are relatively simple, but it’s still quite easy to shoot with the Lomourette in the wrong shutter setting or accidentally overlay exposures. Loading film can be fiddly, too.

You want the best image quality
Distortion, grain and soft focus are all part of the appeal here. If you want to try analog photography that consistently yields pin-sharp results, the Lomourette isn’t the answer.

How I tested the Lomography Lomourette

Lomography Lomourette half-frame film camera on a park bench

(Image credit: Chris Rowlands)
  • Tested over two months
  • Shot 1.5 rolls of film
  • Used in different lighting

I used the Lomography Lomourette for two months to get a proper feel for its quirks and creative potential. During that time, I shot a full roll of ISO 400 and a partial roll of ISO 200 film. To mirror how most people are likely to use the Lomourette, I tried it both indoors and outdoors, in a variety of lighting and weather conditions.

I threw the Lomourette in a backpack for several family outings, to see how its build stacks up in everyday use. I also handed it to a six-year-old for a true test of how intuitive it is for anyone to pick up and shoot with.

I made sure to work my way through every one of the camera’s controls and settings. That meant loading it up with film and winding it on, then doing the reverse when the roll was finished. It also meant experimenting with the Diana+ flash attachment, using the camera’s bulb setting for long exposures and exploring its four-step focus to see how accurately the distance measurement affected subject sharpness in the resulting exposure.

After having the negatives developed and scanned, I reviewed every frame to evaluate color accuracy, exposure consistency and overall image quality. This approach – both analytical and holistic – gave me a genuine picture of how the Lomourette performs in the real world.

First reviewed October 2025

I’ve been using the Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1 for several weeks, and it’s everything I’ve ever wanted in a travel tripod and more
2:00 pm | November 2, 2025

Author: admin | Category: Camera Accessories Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1: two-minute review

We photographers often obsess over gear, even if we may try to deny it. Despite this uncomfortable truth, it’s always great when you find something that reduces the amount of kit you need, which is exactly what the Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1 does.

With Tripod, Desktop, Monopod and Trekking Pole Modes, plus the Smartphone Clip for attaching your phone to the tripod, the Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1 is one of the best travel tripods available. This level of versatility means you can have one tripod to provide a range of solutions, which can be unbelievably useful when traveling.

It’s a well-built tripod and looks and feels more expensive than it is. The ball head is also excellent quality and offers dual panning controls. The tripod plate is on the long side, extending beyond the edges of the head. This is because the Arca-Swiss compatible plate transforms into a smartphone holder for attaching your smartphone to the tripod.

Knobs and dials are finished in a pleasing red that contrasts with the chrome and black finishes elsewhere and match the leg angle release buttons and center column locking knob on the legs. However, I didn't find the chrome or chrome-look finish at the top of the three legs to be the most visually attractive.

The four-section legs are made of carbon fiber and feature twist locks. What I really like here is that the thinnest bottom leg sections are still chunkier than the middle sections of many other travel tripods. This makes the legs satisfyingly rigid when fully extended and improves stability as a result. The leg release buttons for changing the leg angle can be fiddly, but aside from this, they’re great.

The main limitation of the tripod, however, is that the maximum height is 1570mm / 5.15ft. On the plus side, the minimum height is 175mm / 6.9in, and the weight of the tripod and head is just 1.65kg / 3.64lbs. As a travel solution, this is perfect, but you’ll need a full-size tripod if you want something taller and/or weightier.

In the tripod kit, you also get three short carbon fiber legs made up of two sections, which feature a twist lock. These are for the Desktop Mode, which requires you to split the centre column using a hex key and then insert the shorter section with the base to attach the ball head. Transforming into this Mode is the fiddliest, but it’s still much more convenient, and reduces weight, compared to carrying both a travel and a desktop tripod.

Without the ball head attached and with the desktop legs angled out at 90 degrees, you can create a support for use in Monopod Mode. It’s nowhere near as effective as dedicated monopods with three mini legs built in, and certainly nowhere near as stable, but it’s still a potentially useful and welcome feature.

The Trekking Pole Mode simply requires you to remove the leg without the foam and extend it, although there’s nothing to suggest the two legs with foam couldn’t be used as a pair of trekking poles instead. When you use a leg, or two, in this mode, you have to remove the rubber foot at the bottom of the leg. This can be used to cover the screw thread at the top of the leg while also revealing the metal spike at the bottom.

The maximum payload of the legs is 20kg / 44lbs, but since the head’s maximum payload is 10kg / 22.04lbs, this is the figure to go with. However, 10kg is still a respectable payload and will accommodate the vast majority of camera and lens combinations. The maximum payload of the legs also explains how one leg, or possibly more, can be used safely as trekking poles.

The Freewell 5-in-1 is a fantastic tripod that does everything it claims to, and does it well. The only use of the five that doesn’t appeal to me is the Trekking Pole Mode, because if I know I'll need trekking poles, I’ll always take them with me. However, if you’re hiking and feel the need for a trekking pole, the ability to utilize the tripod leg or even a couple of them is useful.

I’m a fan of small desktop tripods with Arca-Swiss ball heads, so I can use L-brackets with them for low-level shots, and this one fits the bill. For me, it’s Tripod, Desktop and Monopod Modes which are the most effective. The robust metal smartphone holder built into the tripod plate is a work of genius. In fact, the overall implementation of the different Modes illustrates innovative design that takes the humble tripod beyond expectations.

Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1: key specs

Head

Ball head

Leg sections

Four

Height

175mm – 1570mm / 6.9 inches – 5.15ft

Weight

1.65kg / 3.64lbs (head & legs)

Max Payload

10kg / 22.04lbs (head)

Material

Carbon fiber

Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1: Price and availability

The Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1 launched on October 8, 2025, and is priced in US dollars at $330, which at the time of writing converts to £246 / AU$500. This is a reasonable and attractive price for a carbon fiber travel tripod, and excellent value when you consider the versatility of this model. Amazon sells Freewell gear, so the tripod will likely be available on Amazon soon.

The tripod comes with a smart padded carry bag with handles and a shoulder strap. Inside the bag are the short Desktop Mode legs, a carabiner clip that can be screwed into the tripod to hang filter kits, and a couple of hex keys. The larger one is used to tighten the legs, and the smaller is used to split the center column. Splitting the center column allows you to set the tripod to Desktop Mode and also use the shorter legs as a base in Monopod Mode.

Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1: Also consider

Heipi 3-in-1 Travel Tripod

The Heipi 3-in-1 Travel Tripod is a small, lightweight travel tripod with three functions and a different basic design from the Freewell. Just like the Freewell, it can support multiple camera types, including smartphones, but it's ultimately more limited because it doesn't offer the same number of modes or functions.

Read our Heipi 3-in-1 Travel Tripod review

Vanguard VEO 3T+ 234CB travel tripod

The Vanguard VEO 3T+ 234CB travel tripod is a unique model due to its articulating center column, which isn't a common travel tripod feature. It's well-made, but one of the heavier travel tripods available at 4.4lbs / 1.98kg.

Read our Vanguard VEO 3T+ 234CB travel tripod review

Should I buy the Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1?

Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1 in a field

(Image credit: James Abbott)

Buy it if...

You need versatility

This tripod performs several functions of different types of tripods and does all of them well.

You’d like portability

This is a compact and lightweight travel tripod that won’t take up too much space or weigh you down.

Don't buy it if...

You need height

At 1570mm / 5.15ft, this isn’t the tallest travel tripod available, but it is adequate in many situations.

You mainly shoot video

If you mainly shoot video, there are video travel tripods available with fluid heads and other video-specific features.

How I tested the Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1

  • The tripod was tested for several weeks
  • Handling, stiffness and rigidity were assessed
  • All five uses were tested

I tested the Freewell Real Multi Tripod 5-in-1 over several weeks, mainly for stills photography but also for some videography, despite it not being a video tripod. The tripod was tested in all five modes to assess effectiveness and handling.

I used the tripod with several different camera and lens combinations, shooting subjects including landscapes, cityscapes and product photography. I carried the tripod extensively using the carry case and also with the tripod attached directly to my camera bag.

First reviewed October 2025

I tested the new Insta360 X4 Air action camera, and now I’m addicted to 360 video
3:00 pm | October 28, 2025

Author: admin | Category: 360 Cameras Cameras Computers Gadgets | Comments: Off

Insta360 X4 Air: two-minute review

It’s been just over six months since the release of the Insta360 X5, which showed up bang on cue to replace the highly praised X4 from 2024. The TechRadar team loved both of these models, placing them amongst the best 360-degree cameras, and you’ll see quite a few of them around the office. Now, in what may feel like Christmas come early for 360 video devotees, Insta360 has released the X4 Air, a smaller and even more portable package designed to fill a gap in the market.

Viewing the X4 Air side-by-side with the X5 – or the X4 for that matter – there are some fairly noticeable differences. Firstly, given the name, it’s no surprise to find that the X4 Air is smaller and more lightweight. If the X4 could fit easily into your coat pocket, the X4 Air can find a home in the pocket of your jeans, making it possible to travel through busy locations and be ready to capture video on the go without being noticed.

Despite the shrunken proportions, the body of the X4 Air retains the solid feel of the X4, and I was confident that the camera would fare better than I would in the city center rainstorm I was caught in during my testing.

The camera is quick and easy to set up and use, even if you have limited experience with videography or 360 capture. The screen is a little fiddly to use, given its small size, but this can be remedied by pairing the X4 Air with your smartphone and using the feature-packed Insta360 app to control the camera remotely. All of the menus are easy to navigate, and I had the camera customized to my requirements in no time.

The Insta360 X4 Air outdoors in a garden setting

The X4 Air has the flatter back-plate design of the X4 rather than the geometric pattern found on the more recent X5 (Image credit: Future)

The dual sensors in the X4 Air are smaller than those in the X5, but larger than the 1/2-inch units on the X4. I was greatly impressed by the dynamic range and noise performance of these chips in high-contrast and low-light settings. Colors were still punchy and shadows clean, despite the X4 Air not having the PureVideo Mode seen on the X5. The 8K footage looked fantastic straight out of the camera, and reframing using the app or Insta360 Studio desktop software was quick and easy.

There might not be enough reasons for X4 users to switch to the X4 Air, but assessed by itself, the camera is a great 360 shooting machine that made me fall back in love with the format. If you’re an avid explorer, or even a pro videographer looking to capture some more exciting angles, the X4 Air is a solid choice.

Insta360 X4 Air specs

Insta360 X5 specs

Type:

360 camera

Sensor:

1/1.8-inch x 2

LCD:

2.5-inch touchscreen

Memory:

MicroSD

Dimensions:

45 x 112 x 25mm approx

Weight:

5.8oz / 165g

Insta360 X4 Air: Price and availability

  • Launched worldwide on October 28 2025
  • Standard edition costs $399.99 / £359 / AU$639.99
  • Starter Bundle available for $439 / £389 / AU$699.99

The Insta360 X4 Air was released on October 28 and is priced $399.99 / £359 / AU$639.99, which is quite a bit below the price of the X4 / X5 at launch ($499.99 / £499 and $549 / £519 respectively). Considering that the X4 Air is technically an update to the X4, this seems a fair price to pay for the larger sensor and access to the replacement lens system.

Beyond the standard bundle above, Insta360 is also offering the X4 Air in a Starter Bundle, which includes the camera, a 114cm Invisible Selfie Stick, Lens Cap, and an extra battery which, given the limited battery life, is definitely a useful backup. This option can be picked up for $439 / £389 / AU$699.99, which is good value to get you up and running.

  • Price score: 4.5/5

Insta360 X4 Air: Design

  • 45 x 112 x 35mm in size, 5.8oz / 165g in weight
  • Waterproof to 49ft / 15m
  • 2.5-inch screen, USB-C 3.0 input and microSD card slot

If you’ve used an Insta360 camera before, you’ll fall right into step with the X4 Air. It shares much of the design philosophy with its stablemates, just in a smaller package. Let’s not forget that the Insta360 X4 is by no means a large piece of equipment, so I was initially concerned that by minimizing the body further it would result in some impractical control layout compromises. However, the changes that have been made are sensible ones, and feel more like refinements of the X4’s layout than unappealing but necessary drawbacks.

The front of the X4 Air looks simple, and not unlike a compact smartphone, albeit with an oversized camera lens. The area is dominated by the 2.5-inch touchscreen, and below that a single round button that's assigned to shutter triggering by default. This replaces the dual-control design of the X4 and X5, giving the X4 Air a more streamlined feel.

I actually think I prefer having one large shutter button in the bottom-center of the camera body to the X4’s smaller shutter control at the bottom-left. During testing, I found it easier to find and press the large button without looking, a minor advantage to many prospective users, perhaps, but as a regular street and travel photographer, being able to get a camera up and running immediately as I pull it out of its case is something I’ve come to appreciate greatly.

As you’d hope for in an action camera, the build quality is robust, and capable of withstanding a few knocks and scrapes. Despite the reduced weight, the X4 Air doesn’t feel noticeably flimsier than the X4, another area I was concerned about, although I suppose Insta360 could only change the construction integrity so far before the camera stopped being fit for purpose.

I really like the textured grip pattern adorning the sides of recent Insta360 cameras. It gives the impression of solidity, and makes them feel like true tools made for outdoor use. On paper, I know action cams are often waterproof, but I often still have trust issues with submerging a valuable piece of technology; the X4 Air will go a long way to easing your nerves if you're like me.

Another major upgrade over the standard X4 is the replaceable lens system. New to the latest generation of Insta360 cameras, the ability to easily swap out a cracked or scratched lens for a new one yourself, without having to send the whole camera away for an off-site repair, saves both money and time. It’s a very neat concept that frees you to take a few more risks with your camera, placing it in some more extreme positions for exciting angles, for example, with less concern that you are about to write off your Insta360 completely. It’s a multi-step process that requires some practice to do confidently, but the additional $29.99 (£29.99) cost for a replacement kit is good value for the peace of mind it provides.

The X4 Air weighs exactly the same as an iPhone Air – surely no mistake on Insta360's part from a marketing point of view. At 165g, it’s not going to add a perceptible amount of extra load to your camera bag, and can even be transported in a coat pocket with ease when heading out for a day of exploring. Due to its size, I found myself taking the X4 Air with me everywhere, on the off chance a shooting opportunity presented itself.

  • Design score:4.5/5

Insta360 X4 Air: Performance

  • Quick focusing
  • Intuitive reframing
  • Disappointing 88-minute battery life

I was a little slow to embrace 360 video shooting, probably because I was put off by how fiddly I thought processing and editing footage would be (I’ve had some bad experiences creating virtual tours for assignments, which left me traumatized, obviously). Right from the off, working with the Insta360 X4 Air via the mobile app was a breeze, however. Once you go through the usual activation and connection processes, which require Bluetooth for two-way communication between your smartphone and the camera, you can use the phone screen to preview the scene in far more clarity than on the camera monitor.

It’s easy to pair your devices, and preview clips and images stored in the camera roll, while there's also the option to download files to your phone for editing. It is possible to work on files stored on your memory card mounted in the X4 Air, but this can slow down processing considerably. The app interface is fairly user-friendly, although some of the more advanced functions could feel a bit overwhelming to beginners.

In use, the X4 Air is highly responsive, being quick to start up and begin shooting. The audible ‘beep’ as the camera boots up is quite loud out of the box, potentially drawing some unwanted attention in quieter environments such as a museum or church; you can adjust the volume once the camera is on, although even after I'd muted it the tone still sounded on startup, which maybe have been an issue with my sample unit.

The touchscreen is nicely sensitive, and I experienced little to no lag when swiping to reframe 360-degree footage while recording. Admittedly, the preview image isn’t the highest quality you can find on a camera; it looks comparatively low-resolution if you’re accustomed to using a recent phone screen or interchangeable lens camera. Equally, the small size means tapping icons on-screen is a challenge if, like me, you have hands that are on the large side. This is why I’d recommend using your X4 Air paired to a phone instead, where practical.

The stated battery life of 88 minutes isn’t especially impressive, so carrying multiple replacements is a good idea if you’re away from home for any length of time. The charging time is fast though, meaning it’s easy to top up on power during a short coffee break at a cafe using the supplied USB-C cable. In my review sample, I found the USB connection quite loose, and some jiggling was required to ensure stable charging.

I did notice the X4 Air’s body heated up quite rapidly, even when not recording. I liked that the screen switches off automatically when not in use, to save battery, but keeping the camera on and at the ready for shooting means it still gets warm in the hand. It’s nothing extreme, but I do wonder how the camera would perform over extended shooting times in hot environments.

The camera is quick to focus, although again I’d recommend using a connected phone screen for assessing critical sharpness. The on-camera screen is too small for you to be completely confident that you have the subject in focus, although with such a deep depth of field at this focal length and given the smaller sensor, you don’t have to worry too much about obvious back-focusing.

  • Performance score: 4.5/5

Insta360 X4 Air: Image quality

  • New dual 1/1.8-inch sensors
  • Can record 8K 30fps or 6K 50fps video or 72MP photos (360-degree)
  • No PureVideo mode for low-light

With a sensor more than 1.6x smaller than the Insta360 X5's, you would expect a tradeoff in absolute image quality. Smaller pixels are the necessary compromise that allows the X4 Air’s diminutive size, and if you buy one, you’re likely doing so because a manageable size and weight are your top priorities. Considering the compact proportions of the camera body, Insta360 has done well to optimize the internal engineering, and the sensor is actually larger than the chip used in the X4 by almost a millimeter.

I jumped in at the deep end when testing the X4 Air, taking it to the low-light conditions of a Christmas-themed market at a local garden center. Despite the limited ambient light, footage was clean and detailed. Straight out of the camera there was very little discernible noise in shadow areas, and the image seemed sharp, free from the excessive mushiness that is the tell-tale sign of harsh in-camera noise reduction. Colors were also vibrant without being unnatural.

I genuinely think the video was superior in this area to that from my older semi-professional APS-C format DSLR cameras, which either made colors flat and dull in high-ISO footage, or wildly overcompensated by making them glow like a Tim Burton movie. This clip was quickly edited in the Insta360 Studio desktop app, which comes supplied with royalty-free music for social media use.

The dynamic range was perfectly acceptable, and while highlights tended to clip quickly in high-contrast lighting, the X4 Air did a good job of capturing shadow detail. I loved that a Log mode is available: I-Log produces a much flatter profile, allowing for more advanced color grading during post-processing while retaining more shadow and highlight data. This worked well, and although Netflix is unlikely to certify the camera any time soon, it does open up a wealth of cinematic styling opportunities.

Meanwhile, the Active HDR mode and Adaptive Tone setting are highly effective at preserving highlights. It’s worth mentioning that HDR shooting isn’t possible above 30fps. The frame rate is also limited to 50fps rather than the higher 60p available on the X4.

Shooting outside in good light produced the best results. The automatic white balance system also copes well in direct sunlight, although taking full control over the color temperature is possible through the menu, giving you more consistency between clips. This gives 360 footage a truly immersive and life-like feel, perfect for capturing the essence of a location while traveling.

  • Image quality score: 4.5/5

Insta360 X4 Air: testing scorecard

Insta360 X4 Air

Attributes

Notes

Rating

Price

Considering it's technically an upgrade to the X4, the X4 Air is significantly cheaper, which is welcome. There is the matter of the DJI Osmo 360, though.

4.5/5

Design

There have been few compromises to enable the more compact size, though handling can be a little fiddly.

4.5/5

Performance

For such a small 8K camera, the X4 Air manages to cope with processing time, heat dissipation and startup.

4.5/5

Image quality

The reduced sensor size from the X5 does limit low-light performance, but noise levels are still excellent, as are colors and dynamic range

4.5/5

Should I buy the Insta360 X4 Air?

Buy it if...

You value portability above all else
There may not be much of a reason to switch from another recent Insta360 camera model, but if you regularly travel and want to be discreet in how you shoot, the X4 Air is a truly pocket-friendly video camera.

You need 8K video
Arguably, 8K is overkill for many users, but it does open up cropping and reframing possibilities. Getting 8K capability in such a portable package is great for high-end videography purposes on the go.

You're new to 360 video
The reduced price point compared to the X4 and X5 means the X4 Air represents an affordable entry point into the Insta360 system. You get many of the same great features, but with less investment, making it a good choice to test the water and see if this type of videography is your thing.

Don't buy it if...

You just bought an Insta360 X5
....unless you want both! While I wouldn't necessarily say the X4 Air is worth changing to if you already own an X5, which is the higher-end model, you might still consider owning both if you're a 360 fanatic and want a smaller backup body.

You want maximum image quality
While the image quality is impressive, the X5 has the larger sensor and benefits from PureVideo mode for low-light and night shooting. For professional use, you might value absolute image integrity over diminutive size.

Also consider

How I tested the Insta360 X5

  • I tested a full production model running release firmware over several days
  • I use the camera both mounted on an invisible selfie stick and handheld
  • I recorded videos in varying lighting conditions, both indoors and outside

Having reviewed action cameras on and off for several years, I went into this test with high expectations. I spent roughly a week using the Insta360 X4 Air alongside an X5 for the purposes of a comparison. I shot footage on both cameras under the same conditions to evaluate how each camera handled noise and tonal range, then examined both out-of-camera footage and color-graded I-Log clips to evaluate image quality.

  • First reviewed October 2025
« Previous PageNext Page »