The DX5 II is the product that Chinese specialist Topping hopes is going to force its name into the ‘affordable desktop audio’ conversation – and so it’s specified it accordingly and then priced it in the most aggressive manner imaginable.
A selection of digital inputs and a wider selection of balanced and unbalanced outputs mean the DX5 II can function as a DAC and headphone amp, like many of the best portable DACs we recommend can, but it can also become a preamp for use with a traditional stereo system or a pair of powered speakers – which your average portable DAC definitely can't do. So, this is new ground for many a headphone amp-owner.
ESS Sabre digital-to-analogue conversion with a native resolution of 32bit/768kHz and DSD512 means the DX5 II is as high-resolution a device as these things ever get. A variety of finishes, each one tidily realised and each one complementing an impeccable standard of build and finish, means the DX5 II won’t lower the visual tone of your system or your desktop. A selection of desktop Topping technologies designed to maximise sonic performance act as the cherry on top.
And no matter if you use it as a DAC, a preamp or a headphone amp, the DX5 II has an awful lot to recommend it where sound quality is concerned. It creates a big, open soundstage and organises it carefully. It’s detailed and dynamic in equal measure, and it controls low-frequency information to the point that rhythms are delivered with real positivity. It’s eloquent through the midrange, and its top-to-bottom frequency response is smooth too. In fact, there’s only a suggestion of overly bright treble response that represents a tiny fly in a great big vat of sonic ointment.
Topping DX5 II review: Price and release date
(Image credit: Future)
Launched on June 10, 2025
Priced $299 / £299 / AU$499
The Topping DX5 II is on sale now, and in the UK it goes for £299. Those numbers apply in the United States too, where it sells for $299 (subject to tariff fluctuations) while in Australia it will set you back AU$499.
A quick comparison then: it's a fair amount of product for the money. FiiO's pocketable BTR17 portable Bluetooth DAC/headphone amplifier sells for just a little less, at around $219 / £179 / AU$329 – but it's a portable little beast rather than a 'desktop' option.
The USB DAC iFi GO Bar Kensei is more, at $499 / £449 / AU$769, while the five-star iFi hip-dac 3 is less, at $199 / £199 / AU$349. All of which is a roundabout way of saying, there's certainly a market for the Topping DX5 II at this price, if it can take care of business.
(Image credit: Future)
Topping DX5 II review: Features
ESS Sabre 32bit/768kHz and DSD512 DACs
Bluetooth 5.1 with aptX Adaptive and LDAC compatibility
Balanced and unbalanced outputs
If Topping has attempted to build the DX5 II down to a price, it’s in no way obvious from the way the device is specified. There are similar products costing a fair bit more than Topping is asking that don’t tick as many spec boxes.
Consider the array of inputs and outputs, for instance. The DX5 II can accept digital audio information via coaxial or optical (which both top out at 24bit/192kHz), USB-B (a giddy 32bit/768kHz and DSD512), or Bluetooth 5.1 with SBC, AAC, several aptX standards (up to and including Adaptive) and LDAC. It’s worth mentioning that Windows PC users will need to install a driver to make use of that USB-B socket. Once the digital audio information been converted to the analog equivalent (which I’ll get to in a moment) it can come out again via single-ended stereo RCAs or balanced stereo XLRs (for connection to powered speakers or the amplifier of a traditional stereo system), or via a trio of headphone outputs – balanced XLR, balanced 4.4mm and single-ended 6.3mm.
Conversion to analog from digital is handled by a couple of ESS Sabre ES9038Q2M two-channel DAC chips – one attends to the left channel, the other to the right. They include ESS Sabre’s latest ‘Hyperstream IV’ architecture that’s intended to suppress noise and deliver optimal dynamic range – and their native 32bit/768kHz and DSD512 resolution is about as hi-res as hi-res ever gets out in the real world. To further suppress noise and distortion, Topping has developed a bespoke current-to-voltage conversion module that should also make the DX5 II compatible with a very wide selection of headphones and powered speakers.
And on top of this, Topping has included its own ‘X-Hybrid’ headphone amplification technology. It’s a fully balanced four-channel design with three stages (discrete input, op-amp -based gain stage, discrete output). This optimised circuit topology is designed to offer extended dynamic range, optimum efficiency and low distortion – and it should mean the DX5 II has no problem driving even the most uncooperative and power-hungry headphones.
Now, the free ‘Topping Tune’ software: it was only available for Windows PC at the time of testing, but it’s now also available for Mac OS users and provides access to Topping’s new ‘PEQ’ (parametric equaliser) algorithm that allows control of bandwidth, frequency and gain across ten definable bands. It means multiple audio profiles can be created, saved and uploaded to the DX5 II, target curves can be defined and imported – and different profiles can be applied to specific inputs, so the ultimate sound of headphones or speakers can be individually tuned by the Topping.
Features score: 5 / 5
(Image credit: Future)
Topping DX5 II review: Sound quality
Great sense of space and detail
Dynamic and punchy when required
A hint of top-end brightness
In virtually every respect, the Topping DX5 II does straightforwardly impressive work. So much so, in fact, that I might as well deal with the one aspect where it doesn’t outright excel – which should leave plenty of space for me to explain just what’s so likeable about it.
The top of the frequency range is just a little flimsy and bright when compared to everything else that’s going on underneath it. There’s an overly bright quality to the treble reproduction here, a sort of latent edginess that means the DX5 II is just slightly pickier about partnering equipment than it otherwise would be.
And with that out of the way, let’s get to all the good stuff.
The DX5 II is an open, detailed and considered listen, with the sort of soundstaging ability that makes even a complex recording like The Birth and Death of the Day by Explosions in the Sky easy to follow on a granular level. This recording also allows the DX5 II to demonstrate its considerable dynamic headroom – the distance between the moments of greatest intensity and attack, compared to the quietest and most contemplative moments, is significant.
The Topping is also alert to the dynamics of harmonic variation, too – and, in fact, shows a great facility for detail retrieval in every circumstance. It can identify, reveal and quite carefully contextualise even transient or minor details in a mix. And this goes a long way towards creating the sensation that you’re in full receipt of everything a recording has to offer.
The tonality of the low frequencies and the midrange is tidy and naturalistic, and the frequency response from the very bottom to the very top is smooth and even. Low frequencies are deep and textured, and carry a huge amount of information along with very pleasing tonal variation – and they’re controlled at the point of attack, too, so rhythmic expression is assured. The DX5 II punches into bass sounds, rather than slurring, and it observes the decay of those same sounds very carefully too.
The midrange is equally well-realised. The voice during a 24bit/96kHz FLAC file of Ghostpoet’s Off Peak Dreams is characterful and attitudinal, and there’s a tremendous amount of fine detail regarding technique and tone revealed at the same time as information about intention and emotion. The Topping communicates through the midrange in the most articulate manner, and as a result voices always sound direct and positive.
All of the above is true no matter what you’re asking the DX5 II to do. As long as you take a moment’s care with your choice of headphones, as long as the system you’re introducing it into doesn’t share the same latent treble tendencies, it’s a deft and remarkably accomplished performer.
Sound quality: 4.5 / 5
(Image credit: Future)
Topping DX5 II review: Design
44 x 190 x 155mm (HxWxD)
Black, silver or white finishes
Properly built and finished
It’s become apparent lately that ‘desktop’ is a relative term – but Topping really means it when it describes the DX5 II as a desktop device. At a neat 44 x 190 x 155mm (HxWxD) it isn’t going to get in the way, even if your desktop is as untidy as mine.
The standard of build and finish is exemplary, and the DX5 II even feels good in a matte-finish, square-edged kind of way. The little indent around the rear of the fascia adds a tiny hint of visual interest, and the Topping looks very presentable in any of the black, silver or white finishes that are available.
Design score: 5 / 5
(Image credit: Future)
Topping DX5 II review: Usability and setup
2-in full-colour display
Remote control handset
Legible and sensible on-screen menus
There are some physical controls on the fascia of the DX5 II – they’re grouped to the right of the crisp, full-colour screen that occupies the centre. Three rectangular buttons take care of input selection, accessing set-up menus, and cycling through the various display options for that screen, while a larger turn/press dial takes care of volume and menu navigation.
Options for the screen consist of a ‘spectrum analyser’ (which is sure to remind readers of a certain age of a graphic equaliser from back in the day), a readout of volume level, file format and file resolution, or a virtual VU meter (which is one for readers of an even more certain age). There’s a choice of colour and adjustable brightness, but in every circumstance the display is legible and crisply rendered, so navigating menus is always straightforward.
The Topping is also supplied with a little remote control handset that is, predictably, a lot less visually interesting and a lot less tactile than the control interface on the device itself. And unlike the DX5 II itself, there’s no choice of finish available – it comes in traditional black.
Usability and setup score: 4.5 / 5
Topping DX5 II review: Value
Judge it on the physical size of the product and the DX5 II can seem quite expensive. Consider it in terms of its specification and it suddenly seems much more realistically priced. And then think about its functionality, its flexibility and the highlights of its performance and the Topping starts to look like a bit of a bargain.
Value score: 4.5 / 5
Should I buy the Topping DX5 II?
Attributes
Notes
Rating
Features
Comprehensively specified – it'll even work as a preamp
5/5
Design
Small, svelte and useful enough to slip onto even the untidiest of desks
5/5
Sound quality
Dynamic, punchy and detailed, if just a tad bright on occasion
4.5/5
Value
It would be wrong to argue with the sound-per-pound value here
4.5/5
(Image credit: Future)
Buy it if...
You want to up your desktop audio game The difference the DX5 II can make to the sound of your laptop really needs to be heard
You have a traditional audio system that could do with some digital smarts High-quality Bluetooth streaming can be yours, no matter how old-school your stereo system
You have some nice headphones that need the best bringing from them The Topping is ready and able to drive the most demand and/or most high-achieving headphones around
Don't buy it if...
You have headphones that are lively at the top of the frequency range The resulting sound could easily be interpreted as ‘too much of a good thing’
Topping DX5 II review: Also consider
It’s pretty plain that the iFi Zen DAC 3 is the product the DX5 II needs to topple – or, at the very least, compete hard with if it’s going to be a viable option.
The iFi is a nice-looking, properly built and handily specified device, and it’s capable of extremely clean, confident and full-bodied sound. Which, of course, are all things that equally apply to the Topping machine…
How I tested the Topping DX5 II
I tried a bit of everything, basically – I used the DX5 II on my desktop, connected it to my laptop via USB, and plugged in a pair of high-end IEMs via the balanced 4.4mm headphone output.
I connected it to my reference stereo system using its single-ended RCAs and its balanced XLR outputs – this way I was able to use it as a DAC for my CD player and, with it wirelessly connected to my smartphone, as a Bluetooth receiver. And I tried out these various roles and functions for a working week or more.
The Dwarflabs Dwarf III smart telescope is a mini marvel. My first astrophotography set-up 10 years ago weighed more than 20kg / 44lbs – but this excellent little self-contained device comes in at a mere 1.3kg / 2.8lbs and is small enough to fit in airline carry-on luggage.
In fact, that's exactly what I did with it a few months ago, taking it with me on vacation to Greece. I've also used it extensively in my garden in the UK and compared it thoroughly to another smart telescope, the ZWO Seestar S50. And as you can see from my verdict and score above, I love it.
But I'm getting ahead of myself, so let's start with the basics.
The Dwarf III is one of the new breed of smart telescopes which simplify and automate the process of astrophotography to bring it to within easy reach of those without the time or money needed for a 'proper' set-up of mount, telescope and camera.
As with smart telescopes from rivals ZWO, Vaonis and Unistellar, the Dwarf III doesn't have an eyepiece you look through, and doesn't in any way resemble a classic telescope such as a reflector or refractor. Instead, it tracks objects in the night sky then takes photos of them and 'stacks' them.
This process increases the faint signal being captured in order to bring out details – because if you just looked at a single shot, you'd see very little beyond a few stars. The resulting image can be viewed in real-time as it develops on your phone's screen, which is essentially your eyepiece.
You can see it in action below, with the fuzzy object that's barely visible after five frames eventually becoming the recognizable Crescent Nebula after about 60 frames:
The Crescent nebula appearing in real time on my phone (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The Dwarf III has two lenses to capture its targets, one 35mm telephoto and one 3.4mm wide-angle – although the latter is mainly used for finding objects rather than shooting them.
The telephoto has a 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, which can fit the moon in it about six times and which has space for almost every galaxy and nebula you might want to capture. I go into this in more detail below, but this wide FOV is one of my favorite things about it.
Inside, there's a 4K IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor, which is on the budget end compared to that found within dedicated cooled astronomy cameras but which delivers excellent results, helped also by the fast f/4.3 f-ratio; this captures light more quickly than some rival smart scopes.
It's all controlled by the DwarfLab app, which gives you everything you need to take photos of the night skies without the need for you to do much more than choose your target and set it going. Even if you've never used a smart telescope – or any kind of telescope – before, you should be up and running within a few minutes.
In fact, roughly 20 minutes after taking it out of the box you could be viewing your first shot of wonderfully named objects such as the Elephant's Trunk nebula or Sombrero galaxy – the Dwarf III really is that easy to set up and use.
And when you do so, I'm pretty sure you'll be impressed, because the Dwarf III takes excellent photos given its small stature and low-ish price. It's truly one of the best ways into this fascinating hobby.
DwarfLab Dwarf III: price and availability
The Dwarf III is competitively priced for what it does – note you'll need to buy a tripod separately (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The DwarfLabs Dwarf III was released in May 2025 and is competitively priced, coming in at $549 / £459 / AU$849. Depending on where you are in the world, that's either slightly cheaper or the same price as one of its main rivals, the ZWO Seestar S50, which costs $549 / £539 / AU$949. Compared to the Seestar S30, which is a comparable size to the Dwarf III, it's more expensive though; that model comes in at $399 / £419 / AU$699.
It's also worth noting that unlike the two Seestar models, the Dwarf III doesn't come with a tripod. Many keen photographers and stargazers will already own one, but if not you can buy one with the telescope for an additional $89 / £73 / AU$149. Or, of course, you can add your own; we have plenty of good options in our list of the best travel tripods. Either way, that might bump up the price a little.
The included carrying case is a nice addition (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Small but mighty (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Dwarf III weighs only 1.3kg (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Looks-wise, the Dwarf III is about as far from a traditional telescope as you could get. Powered off, it resembles a beefy external hard drive from about 2010, but turn it on to reveal the twin lenses and it's more like some kind of futuristic security-camera-robot hybrid.
It's actually pretty cute, with a certain Wall-E charm about it (or maybe that's just me). Either way, it's well built: solid, with a smooth plastic finish and an IP54 rating that keeps it safe from dust, moisture and dew.
It's also impressively small – like, how-did-they-fit-all-that-in-there small, a feeling that only grows after you see what it's capable of. It's relatively light, too, at 1.3kg / 2.87lbs; that's almost half the 2.5kg of the Seestar S50 and a little less than the S30.
There's not a lot to look at, externally. Beyond those two lenses and the DwarfLab logo, there's the main power button – a big circular affair that's very easy to find in the dark and which has a glowing green ring around it – plus a battery status indicator of four green dots, and a single USB-C charging port. On the bottom, meanwhile, there's a 1/4-inch tripod thread.
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The Dwarf III's twin lenses (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The power button is easy to find at night (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Battery life is not the best (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Charging is via USB-C (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
It comes with an excellent carrying case, plus a couple of accessories: a USB-C charging cable, lens wipe cloth, plus a solar filter. The latter snaps on magnetically in a pleasing fashion, and comes with a pouch to keep it safe.
Design is all very well thought out and though it's a shame it doesn't come with a tripod, that's the only minus point in this regard. It's not a massive problem, either, because many of the telescope's intended customers will already have one, and it helps keep the price low.
I've been using either the Seestar S50's tripod or a K&F Concept 64in/163cm model which costs $49 in the US, £45 in the UK and AU$150 in Australia. This is light, sturdy and has a 360-degree ballhead which makes it very easy to angle the Dwarf III for EQ mode (of which more later).
DwarfLab Dwarf III: Features and performance
The included solar filter snaps on magnetically (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The Dwarf III is a feature-rich device, with a multitude of abilities and use cases.
Obviously the first of those is to take photos of the night skies, and it does that very well thanks to its 4K Sony IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor – the same type as used in some of the best dash cams, including the Thinkware U3000 Pro. Starvis 2 is particularly strong in low light, while the IMX678's 4K resolution gives you more pixels to work with when cropping in on small and distant objects.
The twin lenses are very helpful. The telephoto is what you'll take most of your images with, while the wide-angle one is mainly for locating objects in the first place; you can take photos with it too, but it has a much lower resolution.
I've got a full gallery of astro images taken with the telescope below, but for now here's just one, my favorite that I've shot with the device. It shows the Eagle Nebula, Messier 16, and if you zoom in on the middle you'll see the famous 'Pillars of Creation', the swirling clouds of dust and gas that wowed the world when the Hubble telescope shot them two decades ago.
The Eagle Nebula, processed in Pixinsight, and showing the Eagles of Creation in the center (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The Dwarf III has three internal filters. The most important is the dual-band filter, which targets the OIII (sulphur) and H⍺ (hydrogen) wavelengths – in layman's terms, this means it can capture more of the faint details in nebulae and reduce the impact of light pollution. There's also an astro filter, which extends into the infra-red range and which works best on galaxies and star clusters, and a 'VIS' filter which is used for daytime photography. All are easily selected within the Dwarf III's app; you don't need to physically attach anything.
Speaking of daytime photography, DwarfLabs make a big pitch around the telescope's usefulness around bird watching, and theoretically you could use it instead of a mirrorless camera and telephoto lens for any subject – just don't expect it to rival an expensive chunk of glass from Canon, Nikon or Sony.
The daytime photography ('General') mode includes burst and timelapse options, plus object tracking which I found to be a little hit and miss. 4K video can be recorded at up to 30fps, or 60fps if you switch to 1080p.
There's also a solar system mode for snapping the sun, moon and (theoretically) planets, plus a panorama mode. In Astro mode, meanwhile, you can shoot in either alt-azimuth or equatorial mode.
Performance-wise, the Dwarf III is pretty snappy to turn on and off, and slews to targets quickly and reasonably quietly; it makes less noise than the Seestar S50, for instance, although neither would be likely to wake even the lightest of sleepers next door.
In use, it's unerringly accurate in finding targets, zipping about the sky when you tell it where to go via the built-in star atlas.
It's also incredibly reliable when shooting. If the tracking on a motorized telescope is even a tiny bit off, you'll get star trails and the individual frame will be rejected and not included in the 'stack', potentially reducing detail in the final stacked image. With the Dwarf III, this almost never happened – I generally got around an 80-90% success rate, so if I shot a target for an hour, I'd get around 50 minutes' worth of photos. This is way better than my experience than shooting with the Seestar S50, where it can be more like 50% at times.
Plus, that's when shooting with 15-second exposures in alt-az mode; put it in EQ mode and you can get 30s shots with a similar success rate. This all makes it very easy to capture a lot of data on a target in a short time.
One of the few downsides is that the battery is not the biggest – only 10,000mAh, which is good for about 5 hours in astro mode when tracking and shooting a target, according to DwarfLab, and which was about right in my experience. You almost certainly won't get through a full night's shooting with it.
That said, I didn't put it to the test often, preferring instead to leave a much bigger power bank connected to it to ensure I got a full night's shooting. I tend to use Iniu power banks, which I've found to be very reliable and extremely well priced; the model below is well worth checking out and will triple the Dwarf III's capacity.
DwarfLab Dwarf III: Software
Scheduling on the Dwarf III is very simple (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The nature of a smart telescope means that all of your interactions with it will be via an app – it's not like you can look through as you can with an old-school reflector or refractor.
That puts a lot of pressure on the device's software to be slick and simple to use, and fortunately the Dwarf III's is just that – with a few caveats.
I began using the Dwarf III several months ago, and on my first few nights shooting with it found the interface to be a little confusing. It wasn't a horror show by any means, but it wasn't as intuitive as ZWO's Seestar app. For instance, I'd click on the big 'Photo' button front and center to start shooting a galaxy or nebula, then would realize that I'd have to go back in and select the 'Atlas' option to actually choose my target.
Settings for options such as exposure time, meanwhile, were hidden within a menu called 'Function' – which really didn't (to me) suggest 'Settings'. I got used to it all after a few nights, but it was a little more confusing than it could have been.
The good news is that DwarfLabs is continually updating the platform, and a recent update has massively improved the experience. Those settings are now within a menu named 'Parameter, which is far more sensible, and the Atlas is available from within the shooting screen. There's a simple toggle between the wide and telephoto cameras, whereas before you tapped the small one to change between them, but again without labelling. It's all much more slick and easy to use.
(Note that most of my images in this review are using the old version of the software, because there's not been a clear night in the UK for me to take further screenshots for what feels like about 15 years now. I'll update them soon.)
There's a scheduling feature within the app, which works as you'd want it to and which is better than the one in ZWO's app. This is a vital inclusion, because most people won't want to stay up all night – they'll want to set the Dwarf III running with a list of targets, then wake refreshed in the morning to a lovely collection of images.
It's very easy to get polar alignment in EQ mode via the Dwarf III app (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Switching to EQ mode is also pretty trouble-free. For the uninitiated, this lets the Dwarf III rotate fully in sync with the skies, meaning you can take longer exposures than in standard alt-az mode. Anything longer than 30 seconds will need to be in EQ mode (the maximum exposure is two minutes) and in my experience it's best for 30 seconds too; alt-az mode is fine for 15s exposures.
The Dwarf III app guides you through the process of setting the telescope into EQ mode, telling you exactly which direction and what amount to adjust the tripod head by, and the whole thing only takes about five minutes, less if you haven't moved the tripod since the previous session.
The Stellar Studio processing suite can get great results with very little effort (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The included Stellar Studio software is also great. This lets you carry out basic processing actions on photos via the cloud, rather than needing to download them to your computer.
It's not exactly stacked with options, but does a really good job of reducing noise, sharpening stars and bringing out details. You can also remove stars entirely if you want that lovely clean view of a galaxy or nebula.
The Dwarf III's wide-angle and telephoto cameras work well in General/Daytime mode (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Finally, in 'General' mode the app works pretty well to let you zoom in on a target. You can use the wide-angle view to get an overall view of your surroundings, then click on the screen to adjust where the telephoto lens is pointing. Another click switches to the telephoto view and you can start snapping away.
DwarfLab Dwarf III: Image quality
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The Eagle nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Eagle nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The East Veil nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The East Veil nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Bubble nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Bubble nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The West Veil nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The West Veil nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Andromeda Galaxy, M33, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Andromeda Galaxy, M33, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Heart nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Heart nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Soul nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Soul nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M33 galaxy in Triangulum, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M33 galaxy in Triangulum, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Omega nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Omega nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pacman nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pacman nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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M24, the small Sagittarius star cloud, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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M24, the small Sagittarius star cloud, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Iris nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Iris nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Elephant's Trunk nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Elephant's Trunk nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Crescent nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Crescent nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pelican nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pelican nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Double Cluster, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Double Cluster, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Wizard nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Wizard nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Dumbbell nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Dumbbell nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M39 cluster, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M39 cluster, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
There's one very important thing that anyone using a smart telescope for the first time needs to understand: you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images straight out of the camera. Well, obviously, you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images at all; this is a $500 smart telescope, not a rig that costs 10 times that.
But even with that in mind, there's a big difference between the photos that the Dwarf III creates for you, and the results that you can achieve with some proper processing.
The easiest way to demonstrate that is with some before and after photos – so check out the gallery above. In every case, you'll see the unprocessed image produced by the Dwarf III first, followed by the version I processed in Pixinsight, the specialist astrophotography software I use.
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The unprocessed image of the East Veil nebula (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The East Veil nebula processed in DwarfLab's Stellar Studio (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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And my version processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Now, let's get one thing straight: I'm not an expert when it comes to astro image processing. It's an incredibly complex hobby, with sometimes arcane software to master and a surprisingly large amount of technical knowledge needed to really get the best results. In fact, I think I prefer some of the Dwarf III's images, at least when it comes to color – which is one of the toughest things to get right.
Regardless of what you think of my images (I won't be offended, promise), you can see that processing reduces noise and brings out more detail and color. To really get the best from the Dwarf III, you will still want to do some processing.
Fortunately, as mentioned above, it's pretty easy to considerably improve things within the Dwarf III's Stellar Studio on your phone, with no need to shell out for or learn anything more complicated.
For instance, try the above image of the glorious East Veil nebula – the original, unprocessed image is pretty good, but Stellar Studio turns it into something epic, and my Pixinsight version is only a slight improvement (if anything).
The Dwarf III's wide field of view really shines with this shot of the awesome Bubble Nebula (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
One of the things I really love about the Dwarf III is its wide 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, even when using the telephoto camera. The Seestar S50 has a much narrower 0.7x1.2-degree FOV, while the S30 is close to the Dwarf at 1.22x2.13-degree.
The net effect of this is that you get a real sense of drama with the Dwarf III. I love the Seestar S50, but with many targets you end up with a close-up of the object. You can get around this by using mosaic mode (the Dwarf also has one of these), but in my experience mosaics take longer to shoot and are harder to process.
The Dwarf, meanwhile, almost always captures the object and its surroundings. Its field of view is wide enough to cover the whole of Andromeda, for instance, whereas the S50 gets only the central section.
Of course you may prefer a closer view of targets, but the Dwarf's 4K resolution means you can crop in anyway and still have a decent-sized image. It's possible that the Seestar S30 will give me the FOV I love from the Dwarf with some of ZWO's advantages too, but I've not used that device yet, so that comparison will have to wait.
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The Dwarf III takes decent nature photos, but they're not what you'd buy it for (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The ability to easily find and then zoom in on targets is one of the Dwarf III's strengths (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Solar photography on the Dwarf III is easy and produces good results (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
In general mode, image quality is fine. That's a pretty nice shot of a pigeon on my lawn above, but view the full-size image and you'll see the feathers lack definition. My Fujifilm X-T5 mirrorless camera would do a better job with a good zoom lens.
Solar photography, meanwhile, is easy to do – you simply snap on the filter then move to the target. Admittedly, for some reason the Dwarf finds it much harder to locate the sun than it does a tiny object many millions of light years away, but the Seestar S50 is no different in this regard.
I've only taken a few solar shots with the Dwarf III and was relatively impressed by them, but it's not an area of photography I'm particularly interested in.
Should I buy the DwarfLabs Dwarf III?
Buy it if…
You're a beginner The Dwarf III is one of the easiest, most hassle-free ways to give astrophotography a whirl. Beginners will be taking photos of galaxies in no time.View Deal
You don't have much time You can pick up the Dwarf III and have it shooting within minutes – which is great if you either have a busy life or are afflicted by cloudy skies. View Deal
You want to travel light The Dwarf III is small enough to chuck in a bag and take away for a trip – and light enough that it won't break your back.View Deal
Don't buy it if…
You're an upgrader The Dwarf III is unashamedly a beginner scope. Sure, it can take amazing photos, but after a year or two you may find yourself wanting to upgrade – and as this is an all-in-one device, that means buying a new model. View Deal
You want a tighter field of view The Dwarf III's wide view is great for big targets, but you'll get a closer vision of small objects such as planetary nebulae with the Seestar S50.View Deal
You want to take photos of planets As above, the Dwarf III's field of view makes it entirely unsuited to imaging Mars, Jupiter and the rest of the gang. You might see a small Saturn-shaped dot, but not much more. View Deal
Also consider
ZWO Seestar S50
The S50 has a longer focal length and bigger aperture than the Dwarf III, meaning you get a much closer view and a bit more detail. I own the S50 and have taken some wonderful photos with it – choosing between them is tough. Really it depends on which field of view you prefer. View Deal
ZWO Seestar S30
The S30 has the same focal length and a similar field of view to the Dwarf, but a smaller aperture. I've not used it, but I expect it to deliver similar – but probably slightly inferior – results to the Dwarf.View Deal
Unistellar Odyssey Pro
The Unistellar Odyssey Pro is in a different class of smart telescope entirely, with a price tag of $4,500 / £3,500 and far better specs in almost every regard. At this price you could get an impressive mount+telescope+camera set-up, though – so it's probably best suited to those who have more money than time.View Deal
How I tested the DwarfLabs Dwarf III
The Dwarf III smart telescope on a roof terrace in Crete (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
I took the Dwarf III with me on vacation to Crete, Greece, where I was lucky enough to be staying in an apartment with a roof terrace – and in a country with clear skies every night. I used the smart telescope extensively over the next week or so, taking photos of multiple targets including the Eagle nebula, Omega nebula and Andromeda galaxy.
When I returned to the UK, I used it whenever I could, which unfortunately was not that often due to the clouds which blanket the nation for about three-quarters of every month. Here, I set it up alongside my ZWO Seestar S50, taking photos of the same subjects for the same amount of time so I could directly compare results.
I also tried it in EQ mode, in Solar mode, in General mode for a bit of nature photography and spent many hours processing the photos it produced in all modes.
The Dwarflabs Dwarf III smart telescope is a mini marvel. My first astrophotography set-up 10 years ago weighed more than 20kg / 44lbs – but this excellent little self-contained device comes in at a mere 1.3kg / 2.8lbs and is small enough to fit in airline carry-on luggage.
In fact, that's exactly what I did with it a few months ago, taking it with me on vacation to Greece. I've also used it extensively in my garden in the UK and compared it thoroughly to another smart telescope, the ZWO Seestar S50. And as you can see from my verdict and score above, I love it.
But I'm getting ahead of myself, so let's start with the basics.
The Dwarf III is one of the new breed of smart telescopes which simplify and automate the process of astrophotography to bring it to within easy reach of those without the time or money needed for a 'proper' set-up of mount, telescope and camera.
As with smart telescopes from rivals ZWO, Vaonis and Unistellar, the Dwarf III doesn't have an eyepiece you look through, and doesn't in any way resemble a classic telescope such as a reflector or refractor. Instead, it tracks objects in the night sky then takes photos of them and 'stacks' them.
This process increases the faint signal being captured in order to bring out details – because if you just looked at a single shot, you'd see very little beyond a few stars. The resulting image can be viewed in real-time as it develops on your phone's screen, which is essentially your eyepiece.
You can see it in action below, with the fuzzy object that's barely visible after five frames eventually becoming the recognizable Crescent Nebula after about 60 frames:
The Crescent nebula appearing in real time on my phone (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The Dwarf III has two lenses to capture its targets, one 35mm telephoto and one 3.4mm wide-angle – although the latter is mainly used for finding objects rather than shooting them.
The telephoto has a 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, which can fit the moon in it about six times and which has space for almost every galaxy and nebula you might want to capture. I go into this in more detail below, but this wide FOV is one of my favorite things about it.
Inside, there's a 4K IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor, which is on the budget end compared to that found within dedicated cooled astronomy cameras but which delivers excellent results, helped also by the fast f/4.3 f-ratio; this captures light more quickly than some rival smart scopes.
It's all controlled by the DwarfLab app, which gives you everything you need to take photos of the night skies without the need for you to do much more than choose your target and set it going. Even if you've never used a smart telescope – or any kind of telescope – before, you should be up and running within a few minutes.
In fact, roughly 20 minutes after taking it out of the box you could be viewing your first shot of wonderfully named objects such as the Elephant's Trunk nebula or Sombrero galaxy – the Dwarf III really is that easy to set up and use.
And when you do so, I'm pretty sure you'll be impressed, because the Dwarf III takes excellent photos given its small stature and low-ish price. It's truly one of the best ways into this fascinating hobby.
DwarfLab Dwarf III: price and availability
The Dwarf III is competitively priced for what it does – note you'll need to buy a tripod separately (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The DwarfLabs Dwarf III was released in May 2025 and is competitively priced, coming in at $549 / £459 / AU$849. Depending on where you are in the world, that's either slightly cheaper or the same price as one of its main rivals, the ZWO Seestar S50, which costs $549 / £539 / AU$949. Compared to the Seestar S30, which is a comparable size to the Dwarf III, it's more expensive though; that model comes in at $399 / £419 / AU$699.
It's also worth noting that unlike the two Seestar models, the Dwarf III doesn't come with a tripod. Many keen photographers and stargazers will already own one, but if not you can buy one with the telescope for an additional $89 / £73 / AU$149. Or, of course, you can add your own; we have plenty of good options in our list of the best travel tripods. Either way, that might bump up the price a little.
The included carrying case is a nice addition (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Small but mighty (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Dwarf III weighs only 1.3kg (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Looks-wise, the Dwarf III is about as far from a traditional telescope as you could get. Powered off, it resembles a beefy external hard drive from about 2010, but turn it on to reveal the twin lenses and it's more like some kind of futuristic security-camera-robot hybrid.
It's actually pretty cute, with a certain Wall-E charm about it (or maybe that's just me). Either way, it's well built: solid, with a smooth plastic finish and an IP54 rating that keeps it safe from dust, moisture and dew.
It's also impressively small – like, how-did-they-fit-all-that-in-there small, a feeling that only grows after you see what it's capable of. It's relatively light, too, at 1.3kg / 2.87lbs; that's almost half the 2.5kg of the Seestar S50 and a little less than the S30.
There's not a lot to look at, externally. Beyond those two lenses and the DwarfLab logo, there's the main power button – a big circular affair that's very easy to find in the dark and which has a glowing green ring around it – plus a battery status indicator of four green dots, and a single USB-C charging port. On the bottom, meanwhile, there's a 1/4-inch tripod thread.
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The Dwarf III's twin lenses (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The power button is easy to find at night (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Battery life is not the best (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Charging is via USB-C (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
It comes with an excellent carrying case, plus a couple of accessories: a USB-C charging cable, lens wipe cloth, plus a solar filter. The latter snaps on magnetically in a pleasing fashion, and comes with a pouch to keep it safe.
Design is all very well thought out and though it's a shame it doesn't come with a tripod, that's the only minus point in this regard. It's not a massive problem, either, because many of the telescope's intended customers will already have one, and it helps keep the price low.
I've been using either the Seestar S50's tripod or a K&F Concept 64in/163cm model which costs $49 in the US, £45 in the UK and AU$150 in Australia. This is light, sturdy and has a 360-degree ballhead which makes it very easy to angle the Dwarf III for EQ mode (of which more later).
DwarfLab Dwarf III: Features and performance
The included solar filter snaps on magnetically (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The Dwarf III is a feature-rich device, with a multitude of abilities and use cases.
Obviously the first of those is to take photos of the night skies, and it does that very well thanks to its 4K Sony IMX678 Starvis 2 sensor – the same type as used in some of the best dash cams, including the Thinkware U3000 Pro. Starvis 2 is particularly strong in low light, while the IMX678's 4K resolution gives you more pixels to work with when cropping in on small and distant objects.
The twin lenses are very helpful. The telephoto is what you'll take most of your images with, while the wide-angle one is mainly for locating objects in the first place; you can take photos with it too, but it has a much lower resolution.
I've got a full gallery of astro images taken with the telescope below, but for now here's just one, my favorite that I've shot with the device. It shows the Eagle Nebula, Messier 16, and if you zoom in on the middle you'll see the famous 'Pillars of Creation', the swirling clouds of dust and gas that wowed the world when the Hubble telescope shot them two decades ago.
The Eagle Nebula, processed in Pixinsight, and showing the Eagles of Creation in the center (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The Dwarf III has three internal filters. The most important is the dual-band filter, which targets the OIII (sulphur) and H⍺ (hydrogen) wavelengths – in layman's terms, this means it can capture more of the faint details in nebulae and reduce the impact of light pollution. There's also an astro filter, which extends into the infra-red range and which works best on galaxies and star clusters, and a 'VIS' filter which is used for daytime photography. All are easily selected within the Dwarf III's app; you don't need to physically attach anything.
Speaking of daytime photography, DwarfLabs make a big pitch around the telescope's usefulness around bird watching, and theoretically you could use it instead of a mirrorless camera and telephoto lens for any subject – just don't expect it to rival an expensive chunk of glass from Canon, Nikon or Sony.
The daytime photography ('General') mode includes burst and timelapse options, plus object tracking which I found to be a little hit and miss. 4K video can be recorded at up to 30fps, or 60fps if you switch to 1080p.
There's also a solar system mode for snapping the sun, moon and (theoretically) planets, plus a panorama mode. In Astro mode, meanwhile, you can shoot in either alt-azimuth or equatorial mode.
Performance-wise, the Dwarf III is pretty snappy to turn on and off, and slews to targets quickly and reasonably quietly; it makes less noise than the Seestar S50, for instance, although neither would be likely to wake even the lightest of sleepers next door.
In use, it's unerringly accurate in finding targets, zipping about the sky when you tell it where to go via the built-in star atlas.
It's also incredibly reliable when shooting. If the tracking on a motorized telescope is even a tiny bit off, you'll get star trails and the individual frame will be rejected and not included in the 'stack', potentially reducing detail in the final stacked image. With the Dwarf III, this almost never happened – I generally got around an 80-90% success rate, so if I shot a target for an hour, I'd get around 50 minutes' worth of photos. This is way better than my experience than shooting with the Seestar S50, where it can be more like 50% at times.
Plus, that's when shooting with 15-second exposures in alt-az mode; put it in EQ mode and you can get 30s shots with a similar success rate. This all makes it very easy to capture a lot of data on a target in a short time.
One of the few downsides is that the battery is not the biggest – only 10,000mAh, which is good for about 5 hours in astro mode when tracking and shooting a target, according to DwarfLab, and which was about right in my experience. You almost certainly won't get through a full night's shooting with it.
That said, I didn't put it to the test often, preferring instead to leave a much bigger power bank connected to it to ensure I got a full night's shooting. I tend to use Iniu power banks, which I've found to be very reliable and extremely well priced; the model below is well worth checking out and will triple the Dwarf III's capacity.
DwarfLab Dwarf III: Software
Scheduling on the Dwarf III is very simple (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The nature of a smart telescope means that all of your interactions with it will be via an app – it's not like you can look through as you can with an old-school reflector or refractor.
That puts a lot of pressure on the device's software to be slick and simple to use, and fortunately the Dwarf III's is just that – with a few caveats.
I began using the Dwarf III several months ago, and on my first few nights shooting with it found the interface to be a little confusing. It wasn't a horror show by any means, but it wasn't as intuitive as ZWO's Seestar app. For instance, I'd click on the big 'Photo' button front and center to start shooting a galaxy or nebula, then would realize that I'd have to go back in and select the 'Atlas' option to actually choose my target.
Settings for options such as exposure time, meanwhile, were hidden within a menu called 'Function' – which really didn't (to me) suggest 'Settings'. I got used to it all after a few nights, but it was a little more confusing than it could have been.
The good news is that DwarfLabs is continually updating the platform, and a recent update has massively improved the experience. Those settings are now within a menu named 'Parameter, which is far more sensible, and the Atlas is available from within the shooting screen. There's a simple toggle between the wide and telephoto cameras, whereas before you tapped the small one to change between them, but again without labelling. It's all much more slick and easy to use.
(Note that most of my images in this review are using the old version of the software, because there's not been a clear night in the UK for me to take further screenshots for what feels like about 15 years now. I'll update them soon.)
There's a scheduling feature within the app, which works as you'd want it to and which is better than the one in ZWO's app. This is a vital inclusion, because most people won't want to stay up all night – they'll want to set the Dwarf III running with a list of targets, then wake refreshed in the morning to a lovely collection of images.
It's very easy to get polar alignment in EQ mode via the Dwarf III app (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Switching to EQ mode is also pretty trouble-free. For the uninitiated, this lets the Dwarf III rotate fully in sync with the skies, meaning you can take longer exposures than in standard alt-az mode. Anything longer than 30 seconds will need to be in EQ mode (the maximum exposure is two minutes) and in my experience it's best for 30 seconds too; alt-az mode is fine for 15s exposures.
The Dwarf III app guides you through the process of setting the telescope into EQ mode, telling you exactly which direction and what amount to adjust the tripod head by, and the whole thing only takes about five minutes, less if you haven't moved the tripod since the previous session.
The Stellar Studio processing suite can get great results with very little effort (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
The included Stellar Studio software is also great. This lets you carry out basic processing actions on photos via the cloud, rather than needing to download them to your computer.
It's not exactly stacked with options, but does a really good job of reducing noise, sharpening stars and bringing out details. You can also remove stars entirely if you want that lovely clean view of a galaxy or nebula.
The Dwarf III's wide-angle and telephoto cameras work well in General/Daytime mode (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Finally, in 'General' mode the app works pretty well to let you zoom in on a target. You can use the wide-angle view to get an overall view of your surroundings, then click on the screen to adjust where the telephoto lens is pointing. Another click switches to the telephoto view and you can start snapping away.
DwarfLab Dwarf III: Image quality
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The Eagle nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Eagle nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The East Veil nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The East Veil nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Bubble nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Bubble nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The West Veil nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The West Veil nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Andromeda Galaxy, M33, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Andromeda Galaxy, M33, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Heart nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Heart nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Soul nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Soul nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M33 galaxy in Triangulum, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M33 galaxy in Triangulum, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Omega nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Omega nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pacman nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pacman nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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M24, the small Sagittarius star cloud, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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M24, the small Sagittarius star cloud, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Iris nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Iris nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Elephant's Trunk nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Elephant's Trunk nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Crescent nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Crescent nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pelican nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Pelican nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Double Cluster, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Double Cluster, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Wizard nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Wizard nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Dumbbell nebula, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The Dumbbell nebula, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M39 cluster, unprocessed (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The M39 cluster, processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
There's one very important thing that anyone using a smart telescope for the first time needs to understand: you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images straight out of the camera. Well, obviously, you won't be getting Hubble-challenging images at all; this is a $500 smart telescope, not a rig that costs 10 times that.
But even with that in mind, there's a big difference between the photos that the Dwarf III creates for you, and the results that you can achieve with some proper processing.
The easiest way to demonstrate that is with some before and after photos – so check out the gallery above. In every case, you'll see the unprocessed image produced by the Dwarf III first, followed by the version I processed in Pixinsight, the specialist astrophotography software I use.
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The unprocessed image of the East Veil nebula (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The East Veil nebula processed in DwarfLab's Stellar Studio (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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And my version processed in Pixinsight (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
Now, let's get one thing straight: I'm not an expert when it comes to astro image processing. It's an incredibly complex hobby, with sometimes arcane software to master and a surprisingly large amount of technical knowledge needed to really get the best results. In fact, I think I prefer some of the Dwarf III's images, at least when it comes to color – which is one of the toughest things to get right.
Regardless of what you think of my images (I won't be offended, promise), you can see that processing reduces noise and brings out more detail and color. To really get the best from the Dwarf III, you will still want to do some processing.
Fortunately, as mentioned above, it's pretty easy to considerably improve things within the Dwarf III's Stellar Studio on your phone, with no need to shell out for or learn anything more complicated.
For instance, try the above image of the glorious East Veil nebula – the original, unprocessed image is pretty good, but Stellar Studio turns it into something epic, and my Pixinsight version is only a slight improvement (if anything).
The Dwarf III's wide field of view really shines with this shot of the awesome Bubble Nebula (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
One of the things I really love about the Dwarf III is its wide 2.9x1.7-degree field of view, even when using the telephoto camera. The Seestar S50 has a much narrower 0.7x1.2-degree FOV, while the S30 is close to the Dwarf at 1.22x2.13-degree.
The net effect of this is that you get a real sense of drama with the Dwarf III. I love the Seestar S50, but with many targets you end up with a close-up of the object. You can get around this by using mosaic mode (the Dwarf also has one of these), but in my experience mosaics take longer to shoot and are harder to process.
The Dwarf, meanwhile, almost always captures the object and its surroundings. Its field of view is wide enough to cover the whole of Andromeda, for instance, whereas the S50 gets only the central section.
Of course you may prefer a closer view of targets, but the Dwarf's 4K resolution means you can crop in anyway and still have a decent-sized image. It's possible that the Seestar S30 will give me the FOV I love from the Dwarf with some of ZWO's advantages too, but I've not used that device yet, so that comparison will have to wait.
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The Dwarf III takes decent nature photos, but they're not what you'd buy it for (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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The ability to easily find and then zoom in on targets is one of the Dwarf III's strengths (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
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Solar photography on the Dwarf III is easy and produces good results (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
In general mode, image quality is fine. That's a pretty nice shot of a pigeon on my lawn above, but view the full-size image and you'll see the feathers lack definition. My Fujifilm X-T5 mirrorless camera would do a better job with a good zoom lens.
Solar photography, meanwhile, is easy to do – you simply snap on the filter then move to the target. Admittedly, for some reason the Dwarf finds it much harder to locate the sun than it does a tiny object many millions of light years away, but the Seestar S50 is no different in this regard.
I've only taken a few solar shots with the Dwarf III and was relatively impressed by them, but it's not an area of photography I'm particularly interested in.
Should I buy the DwarfLabs Dwarf III?
Buy it if…
You're a beginner The Dwarf III is one of the easiest, most hassle-free ways to give astrophotography a whirl. Beginners will be taking photos of galaxies in no time.View Deal
You don't have much time You can pick up the Dwarf III and have it shooting within minutes – which is great if you either have a busy life or are afflicted by cloudy skies. View Deal
You want to travel light The Dwarf III is small enough to chuck in a bag and take away for a trip – and light enough that it won't break your back.View Deal
Don't buy it if…
You're an upgrader The Dwarf III is unashamedly a beginner scope. Sure, it can take amazing photos, but after a year or two you may find yourself wanting to upgrade – and as this is an all-in-one device, that means buying a new model. View Deal
You want a tighter field of view The Dwarf III's wide view is great for big targets, but you'll get a closer vision of small objects such as planetary nebulae with the Seestar S50.View Deal
You want to take photos of planets As above, the Dwarf III's field of view makes it entirely unsuited to imaging Mars, Jupiter and the rest of the gang. You might see a small Saturn-shaped dot, but not much more. View Deal
Also consider
ZWO Seestar S50
The S50 has a longer focal length and bigger aperture than the Dwarf III, meaning you get a much closer view and a bit more detail. I own the S50 and have taken some wonderful photos with it – choosing between them is tough. Really it depends on which field of view you prefer. View Deal
ZWO Seestar S30
The S30 has the same focal length and a similar field of view to the Dwarf, but a smaller aperture. I've not used it, but I expect it to deliver similar – but probably slightly inferior – results to the Dwarf.View Deal
Unistellar Odyssey Pro
The Unistellar Odyssey Pro is in a different class of smart telescope entirely, with a price tag of $4,500 / £3,500 and far better specs in almost every regard. At this price you could get an impressive mount+telescope+camera set-up, though – so it's probably best suited to those who have more money than time.View Deal
How I tested the DwarfLabs Dwarf III
The Dwarf III smart telescope on a roof terrace in Crete (Image credit: Future/TechRadar)
I took the Dwarf III with me on vacation to Crete, Greece, where I was lucky enough to be staying in an apartment with a roof terrace – and in a country with clear skies every night. I used the smart telescope extensively over the next week or so, taking photos of multiple targets including the Eagle nebula, Omega nebula and Andromeda galaxy.
When I returned to the UK, I used it whenever I could, which unfortunately was not that often due to the clouds which blanket the nation for about three-quarters of every month. Here, I set it up alongside my ZWO Seestar S50, taking photos of the same subjects for the same amount of time so I could directly compare results.
I also tried it in EQ mode, in Solar mode, in General mode for a bit of nature photography and spent many hours processing the photos it produced in all modes.
This model has slightly different names and product codes in different territories:
US: Freestyle Max SV2002 UK: Freestyle Pro / Freestyle Max SV2000UK AU: Freestyle Max SV2000NV
For this review, I tested the US version. The UK version has also been tested by the TechRadar homes team. The only notable discrepancy between the different versions is that the US version has headlamps, and the UK and AU versions do not.
The Shark Freestyle Max is not your average upright vacuum. It's far lighter and more streamlined, and it's cordless too. After its launch in October 2025, I tested it out to see how it compares to both the best upright vacuums on the market and the best cordless vacuums.
In terms of suction power, I was very impressed. I used this vacuum in my 1600-square-foot home and it did a great job at cleaning fine materials and large debris from both hard floors and carpet-like rugs. It picked up everything in a single pass and got right up close to the edges of rooms, too.
The design is very basic but effective – you use your foot to press down on a big button on the floorhead to turn the machine on and off and switch modes. Charging happens via a dock, but this is about as compact as you can imagine – smaller than even the footprint of the vacuum itself. It's also incredibly affordable – pricing is lower than some of the best cheap vacuums on the market, but the suction power is up there with far pricier stick vacuums.
There are a couple of significant potential drawbacks. Firstly: battery life. The battery doesn't last longer than 20 minutes in hard floor mode and less than 12 minutes in carpet mode. That wasn't enough for me to clean my house in a single go without stopping to recharge (at least recharge is relatively quick at three hours). Secondly: the Freestyle Max is for use on floors only. There are no detail tools, and nor is there a flexible hose that enables you to use the vacuum to clean furniture, stairs, or up high.
If you can handle those drawbacks and are looking for a simple vacuum that packs the power of an upright but without the weight and bulk, the Freestyle Max is a great choice. Keep reading to get deeper insight into its pros and cons.
(Image credit: Future)
Shark Freestyle Max review: price & availability
List price: $199.99 / £149 / AU$249.99
Launched: October 2025
Available: US, UK, AU
The Shark Freestyle Max launched in October 2025, and at list price in the US it costs $199.99, though it's often on sale – at time of writing, it was down to $149.99.
There's an almost-identical model in the UK, minus the headlamps, which costs £149.99 but was discounted to £99 at time of writing. Shark doesn't seem to have decided whether to call it the Freestyle Pro or Freestyle Max, so look at the product code (SV2000UK) to make sure you're getting the right one. The AU model doesn't have headlamps either, and costs AU$249.99 at list price.
It's a budget buy on the wider market, and with the typical discount, it's well priced, considering the strong suction power and the shorter battery life.
Value for money score: 4.5 out of 5
Value for money score: 4.5 out of 5
Shark Freestyle Max specs
Product code:
SV2002 (US) / SV2000UK (UK) / SV2000NV (AU)
Weight:
6.6 lbs / 3 kg
Bin size:
0.7qt / 0.7L
Max runtime:
21 mins
Charge time:
3 hrs 20
Size (H x W x L):
44.9 x 10.2 x 9.8in / 114 x 26 x 25cm
Modes:
Hard floor mode, Carpet mode
Cleaning path:
10.3in / 26.2cm
Headlamps:
Yes (US) / No (UK and AU)
Shark Freestyle Max review: design
Extremely lightweight for an upright, and cordless
Generous dust cup, foot-press button operation, and two suction modes
Basic but effective in design
Shark set out with the intent to create a more compact and lightweight upright vacuum, and it did just that with the Shark Freestyle Max. Aesthetics wise, the vacuum is white and gray with a modern sleek design.
The vacuum is very lightweight, clocking in 6.6 lbs / 3kg, which would be fairly light for a stick vacuum, let alone an upright. Unlike other vacuums, the button to change between the two suction modes is found on top of the vacuum head.
(Image credit: Future)
To shift between the two modes, you press the button with your foot, and a blue or green light indicates which mode you're in. Look extremely closely and you'll see an icon to indicate that the more powerful 'green' should be used on carpet, whereas the lower-powered 'blue' is for hard flooring.
(Image credit: Future)
The vacuum locks in place so it can stand up on its own. Although the vacuum can't lean back 180 degrees, it comes very close. If I had to guess, I'd say the vacuum leans to about 160 degrees, which is not quite as nimble as a stick vacuum, but still very decent. The US version also has a headlight on the front of the vacuum head to help users see in dim spaces. This isn't included on the UK or Australian versions.
The 0.7-quart / 0.7L dust cup can be removed from the vacuum pod and emptied with a lid release button. A debris screen and filter are located inside the dustbin. There are no additional accessories, nor a flexible tube that would allow you to break down the vacuum and use it to clean windowsills or in the corners of ceilings, à la something like the Shark Stratos Upright.
(Image credit: Future)
Rather unusually, there's a dock for charging. This is smaller than even the footprint of the vacuum, but a simple plug-in setup would probably be more convenient.
Setup took only a few minutes. I just had to click the wand into the vacuum pod, and the vacuum pod onto the floor nozzle. From there, I charged the vacuum, and it was ready to go.
Design score: 3.5 out of 5
Shark Freestyle Max review: performance
Very powerful hard floor and carpet suction, with excellent edge cleaning
Picks up fine materials in a single pass
Maneuverable for an upright but not as nimble as a stick vacuum
From the get-go, I was impressed with the Shark Freestyle Max Cordless Upright Vacuum, especially in terms of suction power. It may be a simple vacuum without smart features or app integration, but it did a great job cleaning fine material – like flour – and larger items – like crumbs and leaves. In fact, no matter if I used the bare floor or the carpet mode, it only took a single pass on rugs and hard floors for the vacuum to pick up all material, be it dirt or hair.
I tested both the front edge and edge cleaning of the vacuum and was very happy with the results. It cleans right to the edge. Unfortunately, if I tried to vacuum in reverse, larger debris like coffee grinds got stuck behind the wheels. It was better to do a forward pass over a mess for quick and efficient cleaning.
I've tested many vacuums over the years, and the Shark Freestyle Max Cordless Upright Vacuum feels a lot more powerful than others. With some vacuums, I need to use a Max or a Turbo mode to pick up large debris. The Freestyle Max isn't outfitted with those types of modes, but thankfully, you don't need them. The suction power of this vacuum outshone many cordless stick vacuums that I've tested in the past.
While not as powerful as bulkier, corded uprights, it's right up there with the priciest cordless stick vacuums when it comes to power. TechRadar's Home Editor Ruth tested the UK version side-by-side with the Dyson Gen5detect and found the cleaning power comparable with that model – all the more impressive considering that vacuum costs five times the price.
(Image credit: Future)
The compromise here is that because of the higher suction power, the battery on this vacuum doesn't last very long. I discuss more about the battery in the battery section, but for reference, I wasn't able to clean my entire house switching between bare floor and carpet modes.
I love that the Shark Freestyle Max Cordless Upright Vacuum is outfitted with a headlight, as it made it easier to see dust and dirt in low lit areas. If only the vacuum paused when locked upright. In terms of sound, the hard floor mode has a dB rating of 79. I measured an 83 dB rating during carpet mode. In my opinion, the vacuum isn't any louder than most.
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(Image credit: Future)
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The only other thing I should note is that the vacuum felt a little stiff in terms of maneuverability. Turning the vacuum left or right was not as smooth as I would have liked. While it's nimbler than your average upright vacuum, it's not as maneuverable as most stick vacuums I've used. At least it's lightweight, the vacuum head fits in relatively tight spaces, and it can lean back to about 160 degrees, making it easy to reach under my bed and low furniture.
(Image credit: Future)
Maintenance doesn't take long to complete. When the dust cup was full, I removed it from the vacuum pod and placed it over a trash can. Then I pressed the 'lid release' catch and the dust and dirt emptied. I was able to keep my hands clean. The debris screen and the filter – both located in the dust cup – need to be occasionally removed and washed with water, before air drying for 24 hours.
Performance score: 4 out of 5
Shark Freestyle Max review: battery life
11 mins in Carpet mode; 21 mins in Hard floor mode
Takes about 3 hours and 20 mins for the battery to fully recharge
Battery not removable or replaceable
The battery life of the Shark Freestyle Max Cordless Upright Vacuum depends on which mode is being used. In higher-powered carpet mode, the battery lasted almost 11 and a half minutes, and in hard floor mode, 21 minutes.
Since I have both hard floors and rugs in my 1,600-square-foot house, I tested how long the battery lasted when switching between modes. I was able to clean my bare floors in 15 minutes. Then I switched to carpet mode to vacuum my rugs. The battery lasted only three more minutes, which was not enough time to fully vacuum one of my large rugs. The battery took about three hours and 20 minutes to fully charge. I let it charge for an hour, which gave it enough juice to finish vacuuming my rugs.
The Shark Freestyle Max Cordless Upright Vacuum's battery life is far shorter than most cordless stick vacuums – many models can last up to a full hour in their lowest-powered mode these days, and it's rare to see a maximum runtime shorter than 40 minutes. This model won't fit the bill for those with bigger homes or lots of carpet. However, I see it as a strong choice for apartments, small homes, or anyone who just like having a vacuum to do short bursts of cleaning.
One final black mark against Shark here is that the battery isn't removable or swappable, as is the case with most good modern cordless vacuums. That means once the batteries wears out, you'll have to throw the whole machine away.
Battery life score: 2 out of 5
Should you buy the Shark Freestyle Max?
Attribute
Notes
Rating
Value
Very affordably priced, with performance up there with far more expensive cordless models. The compromise is short battery.
4.5 / 5
Design
Very basic in terms of features, but perfectly functional and well-built. Cordless uprights are very rare, so it fills that niche.
3.5 / 5
Performance
Very lightweight and maneuverable for an upright. Picks up fine and large materials in a single pass and offers impeccable edge cleaning.
4 / 5
Battery life
The battery doesn't last longer than 20 minutes, which is very short.
2 / 5
Buy it if...
You want a powerful vacuum for quick cleanups
The suction power of this vacuum is powerful, so much so that you can pick up small and large debris in one forward pass. It's not as sucky as the bulkiest corded uprights, but packs a real punch for a cordless.
You're on a budget
This vacuum has an extremely wallet-friendly price tag, and it's often discounted further. For the cleaning power on offer, it's a steal.
You have more limited mobility
Upright vacuums are typically heavy and bulky, but the Shark Freestyle Max Cordless Upright Vacuum is far more compact, lighter and easier to maneuver, but it still stands up on its own, making it a strong choice for those with limited mobility.
Don't buy it if...
You have a medium / large house or lots of carpet
The limited battery life – which is even shorter in the higher-powered mode – makes this vacuum a poor choice for larger homes or those with lots of carpet, unless you're only planning to use it for a room or two at a time.
You want to clean stairs or furniture
There's no configuration that lets you clean anything that's not flat floor. Most uprights have a flexible hose and detail tools for cleaning above the ground, but that's not included here.
You can handle a cord or a heavier upright
If you can deal with the extra weight and the inconvenience of a cord, there are uprights that deliver even more oomph, can be used for detail cleaning, and won't run out of juice mid-clean.
How I tested the Shark Freestyle Max
I tested the Shark Freestyle Max Cordless Upright Vacuum for a week in my 1,600-square-foot home, using it to vacuum my hardwood and laminate floors and two large rugs. Everything from how well it suctioned debris to the length of battery life and ease of movement was tested and considered when writing this review.
The UK version was also tested on-team in the TechRadar offices, where it was used on hard floor, mid-pile carpet and deep-pile carpet, and the suction power was compared to that of a premium Dyson stick vacuum.
The Tales series has been going strong for almost 30 years. From the humble Tales of Phantasia to the recent Tales of Arise, the Japanese role-playing game franchise has shown no signs of slowing down.
Review info
Platform reviewed: PS5 Available on: PS5, Xbox Series X and Series S, PC, Nintendo Switch 2 Release date: October 31, 2025
In celebration of the anniversary, Bandai Namco has released a few remasters, one of which is Tales of Xillia Remastered. The 2013 original has now been reborn for the next generation of consoles and gamers, and I can safely say it’s well-deserved of it and more.
On the road (Again)
The story of Tales of Xillia follows a group of ragtag heroes on the lam after discovering a secret government weapon.
There’s a lot of depth and nuance laced in the narrative, as simple as it may seem at times. Its tackling of themes like life, neglect, and family rings true throughout. It's not too in your face either, weaving it all in like a fine tapestry for you to unravel as the story progresses. Plus, the action and drama are done quite well, delivering some great scenes and thoughtful moments.
If this is your first time with Xillia, there’s much to enjoy in it. For starters, the cast of colorful characters is among the series’ best. Each is highly memorable and lays the groundwork for future titles. From the shifty Alvin to the budding Leia, you instantly grow attached to them and by the game’s end, don’t want to leave them behind. Also, more games should have cool elders like Rowen. It shouldn't always just be teens hogging the spotlight!
Tales of Xillia Remastered can be played from two perspectives: the kind doctor Jude Mathis or the god-like deity Milla Maxwell. It’s the same story in each one, just told from a different viewpoint. Some plot points are learned earlier in one and later in another, and even holes in one story are filled in the next. Even if most of the gameplay is the same in each, it does boost the replayability a lot.
(Image credit: Bandai Namco)
An old dog has learned some new tricks
In terms of updates, there’s a lot of work being done for the remaster. For one thing, it feels extremely approachable compared to other entries.
For example, guide markers for maps help steer players in the right direction, which is extremely helpful for certain maps. An autosave feature has also been added, which helps whenever you are unable to get to a save point or quicksave. All the additions are convenient and helpful, making Remastered the best version to play of Tales of Xillia.
Perhaps the biggest upgrade is the graphics. Seeing as Tales of Xillia is from 2013, it got a noticeable facelift in the remaster. Characters and settings look a lot nicer, and the improved framerate lends way to smoother gameplay. At times, however, the visuals can feel a bit lackluster, with some of the animations being a touch stiff.
Still, for a remaster, it does translate quite well and plays great on the PlayStation 5. Though some of the audio is a bit glitchy, with character's voices drowned out by mixing issues.
Best Bit
(Image credit: Bandai Namco)
The colorful cast of characters and abundant customization radiate throughout Tales of Xillia Remastered. Plus, with improved graphics and great accessibility, it makes for the most approachable Tales game yet.
If you played Tales of Arise, you may notice the battle system is quite different, but it’s one worth staying with. While the LMBS system does take some getting used to, it feels fluid and fun.
I was a bit intimidated, given I’m used to Arise’s open-air combat, but it does grow on you quickly. Despite an option to walk around freely, I barely used it, as I started to find the groove of the system.
Furthermore, the link system, which connects you with another member on the battlefield, is a lot of fun to use. Crafting combos on the fly and hitting a satisfying move on an enemy never got old.
(Image credit: Bandai Namco)
Nostalgic yet new
One of the best parts of Tales of Xillia Remastered, for me at least, is the vast amount of customization at your disposal. While it is in the original, the Lillium Orb is a fantastic system for players to use. It lets you personalize your moves, stats, and skills to your desire. The same goes for your teammates, as you can outfit them however you like. Want your Milla to be magic-focused with Alvin dealing critical? It’s all there and something I hope future Tales titles return to.
For many, this is likely the first time they will play Tales of Xillia, and for others, it’s a return trip. The ones who will benefit the most from the remaster are newcomers, as it gives them a whole new playground to explore. Older fans will get to see the world they know brought back to life for new consoles. Luckily, there’s a lot to love from both perspectives, whether it’s the intuitive new features or the upgraded graphics.
Overall, Tales of Xillia Remastered set out to do one thing and did it right. A classic has been reborn for a new era, and even more fans get to meet Jude, Milla, and the gang and go on the run with them. The improved graphics, while a touch shoddy at times, bring life back to the world and give way to the best version of the title on the market. With tons of replayability, customization, and charm, you can’t go wrong with it.
(Image credit: Bandai Namco)
Should you play Tales of Xillia Remastered?
Play it if...
You love RPGS with a lovable cast of characters to spend time with In an RPG the game is as good as the companions you spend it with. Luckily, Tales of Xillia has a great group to follow. Each new member adds a key element in battle and nobody feels out of place.
You enjoy intricate battle systems that allow for customizable builds The Lillium Orb is a fantastic way to customize and personalize your playstyle. You can make any of your party the way you’d like them to be, like a unstoppable tank or a magic powerhouse. It’s an element that I hope makes a return in future titles, even if Arise moved away from it.
You liked any of the other Tales of games and want a new experience For those who played Arise and Berseria, this is worth getting into. It’s not as long as those titles, but you’ll find it does all things a Tales game should: great gameplay, fun characters, and a gripping story.
Don't play it if...
You are looking for proper current-gen RPG experience Unfortunately, while it does look better than the original, Tales of Xillia Remastered is still a bit rough around the edges due to its age. Compared to other remasters it doesn’t have too many updated textures. However, it does feel noticeably smoother thanks to the improved framerate.
Accessibility features
In terms of accessibility, there are a few different options to adjust. The biggest is difficulty, it ranges from easy to unknown, the hardest one. Map adjustments, like the newly added markers, are available, as is turning on/off encounters in the open world. You can also change between English and Japanese audio at any time. Button mapping is also customizable and easy to use.
There isn’t too much on display, though, and it may have benefited from adding colorblind modes. Still, what’s been added definitely helps make Tales of Xillia Remastered a more approachable title for newcomers and fans alike.
(Image credit: Bandai Namco)
How I reviewed Tales of Xillia Remastered
I played Tales of Xillia Remastered for around 30 hours, finishing the main story with some side content. My first playthrough was Jude with some time in New Game+ as Milla Maxwell.
There is multiplayer available, but I did not try it for the review. I played the game on a base PS5 with the DualSense wireless controller and Razer BlackShark V2 wired gaming headset, all on a Roku 4K TV. If you played other Tales titles like Symphonia and Vesperia, you’ll find a lot of similarities here.
The Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp is a feature-packed smart light that combines practical lighting with vivid and eye-catching visual effects through preset scenes and custom settings.
Since its launch in June 2025, the Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp has been available to buy direct from Govee, as well as Amazon and other retailers.It has a list price of $179.99 / £179.99, which is great value for money considering how convenient and versatile it is.
Better still, at the time of writing, Govee is offering a discount of $30 / £30, taking the cost down to just $149.99 / £149.99, which is a fantastic price considering this is one of the best smart lights I’ve tested. There’s a similar deal at Amazon, lowering the cost to £149.99 in the UK, but it's just $20 off in the US, so it’s worth purchasing from Govee if you’re buying from across the pond.
The process of assembling the Uplighter was straightforward, although I suggest having someone assist with attaching the lamp section to the pole if you have limited shoulder mobility. Alternatively, if you have the floorspace, you can do what I did and prop up the pole with boxes so you can build the lamp on its side, but it’s much more of a faff than assembling it standing up.
While the Uplighter is pretty lanky at 66.9 inches / 170cm, it’s reassuringly stable thanks to its weighted base. It has a simple aesthetic when it’s not in use. The majority of its outer surfaces are plastic apart from the aluminium stand, which appears to have a powder-coated finish.
I can’t help but find the lampshade somewhat uninspiring when not lit up, but that’s simply because I’m obsessed with how pretty it is when the colors are flowing. Nonetheless, it has a nice finish, featuring a combination of clear and smoky black translucent plastics separated by a black band with a matte finish.
(Image credit: Cesci Angell)
A little word of warning: the clear dome of the lampshade is easy to scuff. I accidentally scuffed mine when it gently knocked against the sloped section of my living room ceiling as I was testing the lamp’s stability. It’s not noticeable when the sidelamp is turned on, but I still recommend taking extra care when shifting the Uplighter about.
The Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp had me hooked in seconds with the bright and colorful effects that were projected from its ripple light. The color-shifting sidelight is a satisfying element too, especially for someone as addicted to color as I am. The downlighter proved satisfyingly practical, too, especially with its easy-to-adjust color temperature and brightness settings.
Govee states this lamp can emit up to 1000lm of brightness, and I can confirm that the downlighter makes for convenient task lighting. The uplighter’s brightness means that the ripple effects are beautifully vivid, even during the daytime, and it looks utterly fantastic when ramped up to 100 percent at night.
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At the time of writing, only two of the lamp’s elements can be used simultaneously, though I’ve heard murmurings that we may be able to enable all three in the future. This limitation isn’t really an issue, and I’m sure some may consider using all three lights as overkill; however, I’d love it if I didn’t have to sacrifice one of the colorful elements when using the downlighter.
In terms of onboard controls, there are two buttons located on the front of the pole, one for power and the other for switching between scenes and color temperatures. They work just fine, but I primarily use the Govee Home app or my Echo Dot (5th Gen) to control my Uplighter.
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The Govee Home app is the best app for smart lights I’ve used to date – and I’ve tested a bunch of them. After taking a few moments to sync with the Uplighter, the app gave me access to a range of device settings, including preset features, smart home assistant, and Matter syncing.
More excitingly, there’s a boatload of preset scenes to explore, from multi-colored aurora effects to floating mists from the ripple light, to themed side and downlighter combos. There’s plenty of opportunity to finetune the effects, too, with DIY and AI creation sections, along with adjustable speed settings on many of the existing scenes.
There’s also a super convenient auto-run feature, which is great to have, especially if you don’t own a smart home assistant – it allows you to assign different scenes and settings to specific times of the day.
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In summary, this is a fantastic, multi-functional lamp that makes an eye-catching feature, while also providing adjustable and convenient task lighting. So, if you love the sound of the Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp, I highly recommend purchasing one to experience its mesmerizing and colorful displays for yourself.
If you enjoy getting lost in captivating visuals to help you unwind, but you’re looking for something a little smaller, then I suggest checking out the Govee Table Lamp 2, which offers a huge range of stunning preset scenes, as well as a bunch of customizable settings. Better yet, if you happen to be looking for a smart speaker as well, the Govee Table Lamp 2 Pro comes with built-in JBL sound, and its larger size means there’s more space for all those calming colors to swirl about.
Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp review: Price and specs
Price
$179.99 / £179.99
Model
H60B0
Colors
RGBWW, RGBIC, WW
Lumens
1000lm
Color temperature
2700K-6500K
Dimensions
12.2 x 12.2 x 66.9 inches / 310 x 310 x 170cm
Connectivity
2.4GHz Wi-Fi, Bluetooth
App
Yes
Control methods
App, voice control, pushbutton controls
Additional features
3-in-1 lighting effects, dynamic ripple effect
Should I buy the Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp?
Buy it if...
If you love colorful lighting Whether you’re a color addict like me, or you love unwinding by losing yourself in colorful, sensory-calming visuals, this uplighter will be right up your street.
You want a lamp that’s pretty and practical With the downlighter’s adjustable temperature and brightness, Govee has struck the perfect balance between attractive lighting effects and practical task lighting with this floor lamp.
Don't buy it if...
You want a subtle floor lamp While it works well as a task lamp, and the color-changing shade makes for a great feature, the standout feature of this uplighter is its vivid aurora-like projections.
You want a lamp that looks pretty when it’s off I’ll be honest, I’m scraping the bottom of the barrel a bit here, as I don’t have many negative points on the Uplighter. However, if you’re not into simple, modern lamps, then you might not appreciate the look of this floor lamp when it’s not in action.
Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp review: Also consider
Nanoleaf Smart Multicolor Floor Lamp If you’d prefer to wash your walls with color instead, and would rather be kinder to your budget, then this colorful column is the perfect choice. This easy-to-assemble wall washer was considered pleasingly sturdy by our reviewer, and its slim design makes it a more discreet option. Like the uplighter, there’s a range of scenes and DIY settings to explore, and it’s easy to control via its app and voice control via your smart home system. If you’d like to learn more, check out our full Nanoleaf Smart Multicolor Floor Lamp review.
How I tested the Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp
I used the Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp regularly over a few weeks
I tested the different features and customizable settings
I observed the brightness and visibility of the scenes in light and dark environments
I used the Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp to light up my bedroom and living room ceilings with colorful loveliness for a few weeks. I also used the downlighter as a gentle source of light in the evening, as well as task lighting whenever required.
I explored all of the Uplighter’s features, trying out the different preset scenes, creating my own, and experimenting with various lamp combinations.
I used the app regularly for customization, but I mostly used voice control to power it on and off, via my Amazon Echo Dot.
I used the Govee Uplighter Floor Lamp in my living room most days, and moved it to my bedroom so that I could enjoy the calming ripple effect lighting while lying in bed. I used it on sunny days and at night, so that I could assess how visible the effects were with various levels of ambient light.
Ever fancied having a graphic design team at your fingertips to help your business with branding, marketing and reach, but can’t afford to hire more people? How about a customizable AI service instead? This is what the amazingly named “design.com" aims to offer (incredible that URL was still available).
Design.com: Pricing & plans
(Image credit: Design.com // Future)
Barely any free templates, but at least you can try all the tools before choosing a subscription plan
Although you can explore all of what Design.com has to offer, and experiment with all of its tools to your heart’s content, you’ll find this service is primarily a paid one. Sure, you’ll spot the odd free design here and there, discernible by a ‘free’ moniker top left of a template’s thumbnail, but sadly, those are few and far between.
When it comes to choosing a paid tier to suit your needs, I found the choices to be somewhat confusing, as the plans on offer differ depending on the services you’re using.
For instance, working in the logo section will bring up ‘Premium Logo Pack’ or ‘Premium Logo Pack + Website’, ranging from €3 to €6 per month, billed annually (paying on a month by month basis is considerably more expensive: from €9 to €14).
However, if you come from the YouTube Banner, Instagram Post or T-Shirt sections, say, you only have one option: ‘Premium Account’, for €5 a month billed annually, or €9 on a month by month basis, yet both ‘Premium Account’ and ‘Premium Logo Pack’ allow you to edit posts, logos and more… Why the discrepancy, in tier name and cost, depending on which service you start from?
I must note that over the days I spent experimenting with this service, these options changed: there used to be three different tiers coming from the logo service, and two from the others, so it might be possible that they will have changed again once you try the service out for yourself.
Design.com: Categories & templates
(Image credit: Design.com // Future)
A wealth of different categories, with hundreds of templates for each. It’s very easy to navigate through them all.
Design.com certainly is feature packed. It’s a logo maker, sure, but it also offers you the ability to create business cards, posters, flyers, banners for YouTube and LinkedIn, Facebook and Instagram posts and stories, email signatures, entire websites, T-shirts, and more.
The platform's focus is on allowing AI to do the bulk of the work for you, with customizations available further down the line if they’re needed. The aim here is to offer you a design so good, you don’t need to do anything to it, except insert your business's info.
The way it works is incredibly simple: at the top of the page is a menu-bar, broken down by category, with options within each category being quite vast. If this feels too clinical for you, scroll down the main page instead to browse through a list of the most common services, with big friendly images and description of what to expect.
Remember: the vast majority of the templates will have to be paid for. Only a handful are available for free, and as you’d expect, they won’t be the flashiest, nicest looking ones. Still, free is free. You’re also able to explore and customize all templates, even the premium ones, as you only get to the paywall when you’ve finalized your design, giving you a good opportunity to try out every feature.
If you’re on the lookout for a free logo and don’t fancy scrolling through the long list hoping to find the handful of free templates available, click here to see the free designs and not the premium ones.
Design.com: Choices
(Image credit: Design.com // Future)
So many choices increases the odds you’ll find the perfect AI creation for you. You’re given a few basic customization options, with the more in-depth alterations saved for another part of the service
Looking through Design.com’s vast choices can be overwhelming, although the developers have gone to great lengths to keep the results focused on what you’re looking for.
To make this work, once you’ve selected the type of service you’re after (be it a poster, website, post, business card, logo, etc), you’ll need to enter a list of keywords so the website’s AI can get to work. There are exceptions to this, like the Business Card or Logo sections, for instance, which request your business name instead.
If you have a logo already designed, you can upload it at the same time, and it’ll be integrated into the results.
Once you click on the big blue ‘Start Now’ button, you’ll be instantly given dozens of variations based on your business name and/or keywords. Actually scratch that: that’s just the first page: scroll down to the bottom and you’ll find hundreds of additional pages waiting for you, which means you have thousands of templates to choose from, which you can narrow down with a selection of filters, additional keywords and searches.
Click on the one you like best to select it and be taken to the next steps, which include changing the template’s default colours, altering the text (or let AI write something for you), and finally select a layout from a choice of six, if the original one wasn’t to your liking.
If this is as much editing as you have the time or inclination for, click on Download to claim your prize… or so I might’ve hoped. I’ve already covered that most templates aren’t free, but if you’re working on one that is, you'll have to jump through a lot of hoops to get it. I lost count of how many pages offering me special (paid) deals I had to skip through in order to finally be able to download my file.
Design.com: Customization & export
(Image credit: Design.com // Future)
The level of customization is high, giving you full control over your creation - although that’s solely reserved for paying customers. As for exporting your work, the number of options on offer is broad.
Keeping it simple is great and a very useful timesaver, but if you have specific ideas not reflected by the AI results, you’ll be pleased to learn these designs are fully customisable, although be aware this feature is for paying customers only.
You have access to the full layout, being able to move and resize and even rotate any object present on the template. You can even bring in new shapes and clip art should you want to.
Altering an item’s colour is just a click away, you have full control over text boxes, from style, to format, to font. It’s all fun and easy to use. If you’re familiar with Canva, you’ll feel right at home here.
Whether you customized your layout or not, now’s the time to download it. The choices you have are refreshingly vast, and this also applies to the free templates you might elect to use.
Being able to download the full design is a given, but you also have the option of exporting a version with a transparent background, or to just get the icon, solely grab the text, or turn the whole creation into greyscale. You even have a choice of format, from JPG, PNG, SVG, EPS or PDF.
This level of choice is most welcome as it can allow people to edit the design further elsewhere, should they want to.
Should I buy Design.com?
Buy it if...
You’re looking for a service that uses AI to generate designs for your business at a fraction of what it would cost to maintain a creative team. There’s a handful of free templates, as well as reasonable subscription rates to gain access to all templates and full customization control.
Don't buy it if...
You want total creative control over your designs without AI input. And the free options feel pretty meagre compared to the more lavish premium templates.
Monopods are useful camera supports in a range of situations, and many tripods come with a detachable leg that can be converted into a monopod, a system that works extremely well. With this in mind, you might wonder why you'd need to buy a dedicated monopod. In a nutshell, the answer is that monopods like the Sirui SVM-145P bring something much more versatile and robust to the table.
Monopods are essentially a single tripod leg that can be used to provide stability, enabling you to shoot at slower shutter speeds than you could handheld. Plus, the SVM-145P has three metal feet to provide additional stability, making it perfect for video capture when you only need a simple camera support rather than the greater stability of a slower-to-use full-size video tripod.
As the name suggests, this is a monopod with a maximum height of 145cm, or 57.1 inches, while the P signifies ‘pedal’. The pedal is used to quickly release the lock at the bottom of the monopod to allow for 20 degrees of tilt and 360 degrees of rotation, providing the movement you need when the three metal feet are being used for stability.
An interesting feature is that there’s a friction control, which allows you to control how loose or restricted these two movements are. This is useful when shooting video because it allows for smoother pans and tilts.
You can, of course, attach a fluid tripod head for video and use this for panning rather than the monopod itself. My only criticism of the friction control is that the dial at the top of the feet section is itself stiff to turn. Stiff is good to avoid movements caused by accidental knocks, but it’s arguably too stiff.
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You can, of course, keep the feet folded up, in which configuration the SVM-145P performs like a standard monopod with a rubber foot at the bottom that can also be rotated to reveal a spike. The feet can also be removed from the monopod, which reduces size and weight when you require only basic functionality.
Moving on to the minimum height of the SVM-145P, the minimum in monopod mode is 77cm / 30.3 inches, which isn’t particularly low. The SVM-145P, however, has another trick up its sleeve: quick-release feet and the mounting plate where a tripod head can be attached.
These can then be put together to create a desktop / mini tripod, which is roughly 20cm / 7.87 inches. The mounting plate also features a 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch self-adaptive thread to allow tripod heads with either thread size to be attached.
The desktop tripod's minimum height isn’t listed in the specs, only the minimum heights of the basic monopod and monopod-plus-feet configuration. Adding a tripod head to the feet with the base attached will inevitably increase the minimum height, but it remains low to the ground, or not too high when positioned on a desk or table. There’s no denying that it’s a useful and interesting feature for a monopod.
Operation of the SVM-145P is quick and easy, with a simple twist lock at the top for extending and retracting the monopod. Plus, there’s the quick-release mounting plate for switching between monopod and desktop modes.
The aim of this design is speed of operation, and it certainly achieves this. The ability to move the SVM-145P quickly and to easily set it up in seconds also makes it suitable for fast-paced shooting situations. It’s undoubtedly much quicker to set up than a tripod, for instance.
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As far as monopods go, this one is pretty chunky, with the thickest tube having a 36mm / 1.42-inch diameter. The weight of the SVM-145P without a head is 1.49kg / 3.3lbs, so once a head is attached, it’s going to weigh as much as many travel tripods.
When you remove the metal feet, the overall weight is reduced by 720g / 1.6lbs. The maximum payload of the monopod is 10kg / 22lbs, which will include the tripod head if you attach one, but leaves plenty of room for many camera and lens combinations.
The SVM-145P doesn’t come with a head included. This frees you to choose your own head, as well as providing the ability to use different heads depending on what and how you’re shooting. This is standard in the world of mid-to-higher-end tripods and monopods, but more and more travel tripods come with a ball head included, which does reduce overall cost.
My biggest issues with the SVM-145P are that it weighs as much as some travel tripods that have multi-functionality, including monopod and desktop tripod modes, and the cost. The build quality and functionality are fantastic for a monopod, but it also costs the same as many travel tripods, which also come with a head included.
Sirui SVM-145P: key specs
Head
Purchased separately
Leg sections
Three
Height
770mm – 1450mm / 30.3 inches – 57.1 inches
Weight
1.53kg / 3.4lbs
Max Payload
10kg / 22.04lbs
Material
Carbon fiber
Sirui SVM-145P: Price and availability
The Sirui SVM-145P is available now and costs $274 / £239, which puts it in a similar price range to many travel tripods, and the SVM-145P doesn’t even include a tripod head. You can use the monopod without a head, which is ideal when using it to support larger telephoto lenses, but for general photo and video capture a tripod head does improve handling and control.
With this in mind, the SVM-145P is quite expensive. On the other hand, it’s much more feature-packed than a basic monopod or one that’s just a converted tripod leg. If you’re looking for a high-quality monopod and will get plenty of use from it, this could be a fantastic option to consider. If, however, you only need to use a monopod occasionally, you might be better off with a cheaper alternative.
There are also several other monopods available in the SVM range, with different heights, with and without the foot pedal that allows you to switch between a locked monopod and pan and tilt movements when the feet are in use. This means you can choose the height and functionality that works best for you, but as the model that loosely sits in the middle, the SVM-145P is likely to be one of the more popular options in the range.
Sirui SVM-145P: Also consider
Peak Design Pro Tripod
There are three Peak Design Pro Tripod models available, and this excellent travel tripod doesn't come cheap. Its design allows for a compact folded size, while optional ‘mods’ allow you to increase video functionality if required.
The Heipi 3-in-1 Travel Tripod is a small and lightweight travel tripod featuring an innovative design, and the ability to support multiple camera types, including smartphones. The tripod also incorporates a mini tripod into the overall design, adding to its usefulness when traveling.
This monopod can be operated quickly and provides the support you need in a range of shooting situations.
You need portability
If you don’t need the full support of a tripod, monopods are often more compact, although this one is as heavy as travel tripods.
Don't buy it if...
You need greater support
If you need full camera support for capturing long exposures, for example, you’ll need a tripod rather than a monopod.
You’re on a budget
If you’re on a budget, you can buy cheaper and more basic monopods. Plus, many tripods have a convertible leg for monopod use.
How I tested the Sirui SVM-145P
I tested it in all configurations
I used it with different camera and lens combinations
I tested it with and without a tripod head
I tested the Sirui SVM-145P for more than a week in situations when a monopod is the most appropriate solution, using it to capture both a range of photographic subjects and video. I also tested it alongside a travel tripod, so that I could directly compare the pros and cons of each system.
Given that vinyl records often feel like they belong in the Smithsonian, actually using them for music can seem like a scary proposition, and what doesn't help is how fiddly and delicate some of the best turntables can seem. Newbies to the vinyl game can find many reasons to stay away, but I'm here to offer one good reason to come over: the Majority Folio.
This record player – for amplification and speaker are both onboard, squirrelled away into the base – is here to downplay those reasons, and make listening to your collection (relatively) simple.
This is the joint-third turntable from British audio company Majority, following the Majority Moto 2.0 and releasing simultaneously with the pricier Stylo.
Like its predecessor, the Folio is an inexpensive turntable, and it also totes a built-in speaker, which means you don't need to buy a separate one (or indeed any phono stage or pre/power amplifiers) to hear your music. These facts alone make the device really easy to buy for people scared to take the plunge.
But beyond that it's easy to set up and use, and won't be scary for new users to experiment with. And once you decide to flesh out your hi-fi setup, the Majority Folio's support for many outputs and inputs means that unlike many cheap vinyl players, it actually can remain a central part of your kit and won't need to be replaced any time soon.
You may want to upgrade things though, because the Folio's speaker doesn't actually sound that great; it's fine as a starting-off point, or for people who aren't already too used to the fantastic audio that high-end kit can put out, but it retains all the issues of its predecessor in that it lacks a solid, weighty and impactful low-end and doesn't provide quality audio overall.
Another gripe I have with the Folio is that a few design choices show a lack of precision. The dust cover doesn't fit perfectly, and the turntable's wooden surface showed up bumps and scratches really easy. These didn't affect playback, but it's still not ideal.
One novel feature I need to bring up in the introduction is that you can plug a USB stick into the Folio and rip/record your vinyl record onto it. This can be great for digitizing your record collection, but you could also use it to create your own mix-tapes (you can split the recording and break it up by track, changing vinyl while you do) or re-record your favorites at a shifted pitch... for some reason. It's a feature with admittedly limited appeal, but I can see it being a game-changer for some music creators.
Majority Folio review: Price and release date
Announced on April 12, 2025
Sells for £169.95 (roughly $220, AU$340)
No US or AUS availability
The Majority Folio was announced on Record Store Day, which was April 12, 2025. It went on sale shortly afterward.
You can buy the turntable for £169.95 (roughly $220 / AU$340), although it’s only available in certain regions, including the UK. Majority’s turntables don’t tend to go on sale in the US, and while they do in Australia, the Folio isn’t currently offered in the region.
That price puts the Folio as one of the more affordable turntables on the market, a great budget buy for people who don’t have the big bucks to invest in a fancy home hi-fi system but want something solid to play vinyl.
(Image credit: Future)
Majority Folio review: Specs
Dimensions
41.2 x 32.3 x 14.2cm
Motor
Belt drive
Platter
Die-cast metal
Phono preamp
Yes
USB
Input & recording
Bluetooth
5.3
Speeds
33, 45RPM
Stylus
AT3600L
Extras
45RPM adapter, RCA cable, rubber mat, replacement belt
(Image credit: Future)
Majority Folio review: Features
Easy to set-up and use
Range of connection options
USB recording feature
The Majority Folio seems designed as a plug-and-play dream; thanks to having its own speaker you don’t need to fuss over connecting other devices or extras, and simply plugging it into a power point is your first and last act to get it running. Well, you’ve got to add the record too, and it’s not an automatic turntable so you'll need to place the needle yourself; the record begins to spin as soon as you lift the arm.
Despite having its own speaker, and therefore being less reliant on external speakers to work, the Majority Folio offers quite a few connection options. You can pair to nearby Bluetooth speakers or wireless headphones with Bluetooth 5.3 (to transmit your vinyl wirelessly for playback, thus bypassing the Folio's inbuilt speaker), play via an AUX cord, output music from a USB stick or plug in other devices with RCA, and so the Folio can stand alone or be the nexus of a hi-fi set-up. Most of these options let you output the vinyl music, but also use the device’s speaker for other inputs.
In somewhat of a novelty, you can plug a USB stick into the Folio and record your vinyl recording onto it. It’s a neat way of digitizing your music, especially with the ability to split a recording (ie, break it up by song), although the quality isn’t exactly stellar. If you change the playback speed of a record, this is reflected in your recording, but tweaking the volume isn't.
Features score: 4/5
(Image credit: Future)
Majority Folio review: Sound quality
AT3600L cartridge in play
Build-in speaker lacks quality
Output sounds a lot better
At the end of the arm is an AT3600L Moving Magnetic Cartridge, a piece of kit Majority has used before. And there’s no shame in that, especially not when the first two letters stand for Audio-Technica; this is a fine-tuned piece of kit. We've seen it grace plenty of other budget options and it provides fun audio, if lacking some high-fidelity flair of higher-end options.
One of the unique selling points of the Majority Folio is that it comes with its own speaker as part of the package; if you’re at the first step of your home audio journey and don’t have a hi-fi set-up, you can use the Folio out of the box…
… although I’d recommend against it, if you can avoid it. Music from the built-in speaker sounds a bit tinny, lacking deep bass or crisp treble, and that's not just true of phono playback but for Bluetooth playing too. I couldn’t help but feel that lots of the depth, detail and nuance that the vinyl format provided, was lost when played through the main speaker. As I write this, I’m listening to Bowie’s Space Oddity, and it’s hard to make out much of the song besides the vocals, strings and cymbals.
Thankfully, as I’ve mentioned, the Folio has a range of connectivity options, and I’m pleased to report that music sounds better from headphones or other speakers. The low end has a lot more weight (even accounting for the toning of other devices), high-end is crisper and there’s a full-bodied midrange which adds to the sense of detail on a song. It’s not going to wow audiophiles who’ve tested top-end equipment, but I’d question how many such buyers have made it this far into the review anyway!
There’s nothing strictly wrong with the built-in speaker if you’re at the beginning of your home hi-fi journey, but it’s not something I’d rely on in the long run.
It’s worth noting that, according to the website and user manual, the Folio doesn’t support high-quality or low latency Bluetooth codecs. So I’d recommend buying wired speakers (see TechRadar's guide to the best stereo speakers here) if you want to appreciate your music to the best standards.
(Image credit: Future)
Sound quality score: 3.5/5
Majority Folio review: Design
Chunky, thanks to built-in speaker
Lots of dials, ports, switches
Easily gains knicks
As you can probably expect from a turntable with a speaker built in, the Majority Folio is a little bit bigger than some rivals on the market, and it adds this heft in the height department. It’s 14.2cm tall, 41.2cm wide and 32.3cm length-wise. And if we’re going through dimensions, it weighs 3.7kg.
The device has a classy look, with a nice wooden finish, although this material quickly showed some marks and splintering on my review unit. An S-shaped tonearm is light and nimble, though looks a little too much like a Mechano set towards the needle, which blocked my sight of the needle from certain angles (and I'm bad at placing it at the best of times). The party is at the back though with an easily-manipulated counterweight and RPM toggle hidden away from the plate.
The table begins to spin automatically, as soon as you lift the needle, but the arm cradle wasn’t totally reliable at holding the limb in place; a few times I accidentally bumped the arm and the record began to spin of its own accord. A cradle with a slight edge would fix this problem.
Elsewhere on the body you’re getting an RPM adapter plonked to the side, and then on the right edge a headphone jack as well as dials for the volume, pitch and input method. It’s a little more cluttered than some other turntables I’ve seen, but I prefer ease of use with your many functions, toggles and switches in plain view.
That’s only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the Majority Folio’s buttons and dials. On the right edge there’s a USB slot as well as buttons for recording, splitting and Bluetooth pairing, while on the back there’s the range of connection inputs we’ve already discussed. Perhaps one of the benefits of a big body, is lots of room for ports and buttons.
Like most (but not all) alternatives, the Folio has a dust cover. It does its job but it’s a little wobbly, often not sitting straight on the turntable, and it quickly got quite scuffed up during my testing.
(Image credit: Future)
Design score: 4/5
Majority Folio review: Value
Based on the price, specs and feature set, the Majority is a great entry-level turntable for people at the beginning of their hi-fi journey.
It’s a purchase comparable to those guitar starter-packs you can buy, which get you a budget amp, carry case and cables alongside a cheapie six-string; none of the kit is stellar, but you’re getting a nice easy package to get you started. The further you get into your hi-fi journey, the more you can augment your setup with extra speakers.
There are a few turntables on the market that are cheaper than the Majority, but most don’t have the speaker built in, giving this an easy value win.
Value score: 4.5/5
(Image credit: Future)
Should I buy the Majority Folio?
Majority Folio score card
Attributes
Notes
Rating
Features
A range of connection options, and easy to use.
4/5
Sound quality
Built-in speaker isn't perfect, but there's a fun sound in general.
3.5/5
Design
Its big size facilitates its many features; it shows its wear readily though.
4/5
Value
It's great value for what you're getting (and what you don't need to get).
4.5/5
Buy it if…
You're on a limited budget If you buy the Folio, you don't need to buy extra speakers or players if you don't want. One purchase and you're done.
You want to digitize your record collection The USB recording feature is a neat way to transfer your old vinyl records into a more digital form, or record your own mix tape.
You need something easy to use While it's not an automatic turntable, the Majority Folio is simple to use and doesn't need endless tweaking or tinkering.
Don’t buy it if…
You've got limited shelf space Thanks to its speaker, the Majority Folio is a pretty bulky piece of kit which takes up a fair amount of space on a shelf.
You need top-quality audio People who want to get every drop of audio goodness from their records will want to spend a lot more on their kit.
Majority Folio review: Also consider
Majority Folio
Audio-Technica AT-LP70XBT
House of Marley Revolution
Dimensions
412 x 323 x 142mm
110 x 400 x 330mm
112 x 389 x 328mm
Motor
Belt drive
Belt drive
Belt drive
Platter
Die-cast metal
Aluminium
Plastic
Phono preamp
Yes
Yes
Yes
USB
Input & recording
No
No
Bluetooth
5.3
5.2
5.3
Speeds
33 1/3, 45RPM
33 1/3, 45RPM
33 1/3, 45, 78RPM
Cartridge
AT3600L
AT-VMN95C
AT3600L
Extras
Dust cover, rubber mat, 45 adapter, RCA cable.
Dust cover, felt mat, 45 adapter, 1m RCA cable
Dust cover, felt mat, 45 adapter
Audio-Technica AT-LP70XBT We rate the AT-LP70XBT as our favorite budget turntable, though it costs a little more than the Folio. It's easy to use, sounds decent and doesn't break the bank, making it a solid beginner turntable. Read our Audio-Technica AT-LP70XBT review here.
House of Marley Revolution Another highly-rated beginner turntable, which undercuts the Folio, comes from HoM. It has the same cartridge as the Folio so you're getting a similar audio profile. Read our House of Marley Revolution review here.
How I tested the Majority Folio
(Image credit: Future)
Tested for three weeks
Inputs include vinyl records, Bluetooth and USB
Outputs include built-in speaker and wired headphones and speakers
I used the Majority Folio for three weeks in order to write this review, and through the whole process it was set up in my living room (which is also my dining room and kitchen; it's not a big apartment).
I primarily listened to music from my large vinyl record library, though also used the speaker's Bluetooth playback function and also listened to recordings I'd made with the USB recording function.
For most of the testing period, I listened through the build-in speaker, but for additional listening I plugged in some over-ear headphones and some wireless speakers to get a sense for the sound.
Battlefield REDSEC arrives seven years after the battle royale genre began in earnest, boasting a free-to-play structure, a whole lot of destruction, and of course, a Battle Pass. It launched as a surprise free-to-play update to Battlefield 6, but it can also be downloaded separately.
Review info
Platform reviewed: PS5 Pro Available on: PC, PS5, Xbox Series X and Series S Release date: October 28, 2025
I imagine you now have a clear picture in your head as to what Battlefield REDSEC looks like, what mechanics it uses to push players further and further into the map, and can practically see the various icons for currencies both paid for and free.
While Battlefield REDSEC does have a few interesting design choices, I’d almost guarantee that you’ve pretty much played this one before. You'll no doubt recognize key mechanics lifted from several of the best FPS games to come out in recent years, with very little that jumps out as new.
Late for departure
(Image credit: EA)
The highlights then. Battlefield is a perfect fit for battle royale design, and its destructible environments are easily the best I've ever seen in the genre.
The class system borrows from the main game and offers genuinely enticing and decidedly distinct ways to play. There’s tanks too - yes, tanks in a battle royale game. They’re brilliant, but also balanced in a way that makes them extremely difficult to manage, especially if your enemies have brought in an Engineer.
Even the gunplay is tight and enjoyable, and really gives Warzone a run for its money. All in all, I’d recommend Battlefield REDSEC if you’re a fan of shooters, and if you want a more streamlined experience when compared to the bloated monster that main competitor Warzone has become over the years.
The main issue with REDSEC is timing. Had it launched 3 years ago, I reckon it would’ve been a rather exciting proposition.
Instead, it joins Apex Legends, Warzone, Fortnite, and other battle royale games, all jostling for your attention. It’s not just those games either, as 2025 has been a veritable goldmine of innovative multiplayer experiences like Peak, R.E.P.O, and most recently: Arc Raiders. With the arrival of the latter in particular, I’ve found it very difficult to justify sinking hour after hour in Battlefield REDSEC when there’s another game that I’d desperately rather be playing.
Military medley
In my mind, PUBG: Battlegrounds kicked off the ongoing fascination with closing circles and last survivor-victories all the way back in 2018. Battlefield REDSEC then, has quite a bit to borrow from, and borrow it does, rather masterfully in fact. There’s the map design of Warzone, the squad-formation drop-ins from Apex, and the Battle Pass structure perfected by Fortnite. All of this is spliced together into quite a neat package, making Battlefield REDSEC a sort of best-of compilation of games you’ve probably played over the last seven years.
There’s very little fat to trim here, and if you’re looking for a battle royale game that feels the way you remember Warzone feeling in 2020, you’ve found it. Inventories are clean and simple, armor plates aren’t stored in some extra menu or bag that you have to manage on the fly, and matches are all action, all the time.
(Image credit: EA)
Burn this city
My favorite quirk of Battlefield REDSEC is the closing circle of flame. Rather than slowly doing damage over time, the flames will instantly kill you if it catches you, and you’ll even take burn damage just by being anywhere near the closing wall.
This does two things: it prevents players from using the closing circle as a hiding spot, while encouraging players to move inwards at all times. That first effect is a very welcome one indeed, and anyone who’s played Warzone over the years can attest to how frustrating it is to get to the final circle and learn that the opposing team is using gas masks and health stims to stay alive in the gas.
Best bit
(Image credit: EA)
Don’t sleep on Gauntlet mode, which pits teams against each other in a variety of different mini-modes set on the battle royale map. For those that don’t want to invest in Battlefield 6, it’s a great sampler of what to expect from the more structured gameplay sessions of the base game. It’s the perfect way to learn the gunplay, as well.
The second effect can be felt dramatically throughout matches, as you and your team frequently have to change position and make quick decisions before the flames get too close. Given the rapidity with which the deadly flaming circle contracts, vehicles become vital means for repositioning.
Gatling gun-mounted buggies feel weighty and fun to drive, while helicopters are hilariously complicated beasts that require careful practice, and a whole lot of bravery to pilot. Add in the tanks and you’ve got a winning formula, as you send vehicles careening through buildings, charging across debris-ridden plains, and soaring across a sky filled to the brim with missiles.
“Iconic DNA”
EA has been hammering on about Battlefield’s “Iconic DNA” in the marketing for REDSEC. Presumably, this refers to the destructability and class-based warfare that I’ve certainly enjoyed while playing the main game’s multiplayer modes. In REDSEC, however, I’m left wanting a bit more of a signature style, something to differentiate it from the countless others vying for my attention.
Part of this identity crisis stems back to the overall design mentality of this new era of Battlefield. After the floundering performance of Battlefield 2042, EA has stripped everything back to the bone, choosing to appease Battlefield 3 and 4 purists rather than risk anything remotely new.
This has been an overcorrection, and while I do enjoy both Battlefield 6 and REDSEC, there’s very little that’s truly memorable about either. This all translates over to REDSEC’s Battle Pass, which is woefully dull, filled with generic military skins and green-brown color swaps of boilerplate character designs.
I’m genuinely left wondering why anybody would spend real money on any of it, and while I understand the need for EA to avoid the wacky and often-maligned cosmetics of Call of Duty, there’s got to be a middle ground.
(Image credit: EA)
On a mission
There’s a mission system in Battlefield REDSEC which gives players varied objectives to complete in addition to the main goal of looting and shooting. These range from bomb defusals to tasks that have you aligning satellite beacons. They’re almost always worth doing, and often serve as sneaky ways to bring rival teams closer together. It’s all little more than Contracts in Warzone, or missions in Fortnite, but I do like the implementation better in Battlefield REDSEC.
Similarly, the way loot is labelled and upgraded is sleek and intuitive. Orange crates give you loot that’s specific to your class, while weapon kits can be used to upgrade an aspect of your held weapon.
Custom weapon caches drop from the skies periodically, leading to yet more opportunities for skirmishes between squads. Battlefield REDSEC really excels in pacing, and I’ve found the majority of matches to be action-packed and just bit-sized enough to encourage me to jump back in.
(Image credit: EA)
In terms of incentives, however, REDSEC is once again held back by the trappings of the battle royale genre. There’s really no reward for winning, par for the course at this point, but other games like Fortnite have managed to use victory crowns and exclusive Gliders as a reason for players to want to win again and again. There’s an XP bonus that ties nicely into the shared progression of guns across REDSEC and Battlefield 6, but given the lacklustre nature of the Battle Pass rewards, I find very little reason to keep playing night after night.
By positioning Battlefield REDSREC as a separate, free to play, title, EA has at least made the barrier to entry fairly low. I’d recommend it for those that love battle royale games, as it’s solid enough, and often fun enough, to warrant getting a full squad together to give it a go.
Unfortunately, there’s only Duos and Quads right now, so be aware that you will need to play with randoms often, and there’s really no way to play solo, which is disappointing. For those that’ve gotten their fill from years of Warzone, Fortnite and Apex Legends, however, there’s very little that differentiates REDSEC from titles you’ve already played. Perhaps the genre has started to run its course
Should I play Battlefield REDSEC?
(Image credit: EA)
Play it if...
You live and breathe battle royale games While Battlefield REDSEC doesn’t bring anything new to the genre per se, it is a great culmination of elements borrowed from some of the best that we’ve seen so far. The destructible environments are well worth checking out, at a minimum.
You have a full squad REDSEC only offers Duos and Quads, and partnering with randoms is a mixed bag at present. The Ping system isn’t perfect, and it can be difficult to coordinate without a mic. Get a full team of pals together to really experience the best of what a Battlefield-branded battle royale has to offer.
You’re enjoying Battlefield 6 There’s shared progression between Battlefield 6 and REDSEC, and the battle royale mode is likely already installed on your hardware. There’s challenges to complete in REDSEC, and the classes line up nicely with those in the main game. You can bring in your custom weapons as well, granted you find a cache that spits them out.
Don't play it if...
You’re looking for something new I think it’s fair to say that the battle royale genre has lost much of its appeal over the last couple of years. REDSEC is very much by the numbers, and you won’t really find anything in here that you didn’t get in Warzone over five years ago.
You want to progress and unlock new rewards The battle pass and rewards system is pretty lacking in REDSEC at the moment. If you don’t really want to dig into its various loadout options and grind out attachments, there’s very little to incentivize you to play regularly.View Deal
Accessibility features
Battlefield REDSEC has some decent accessibility settings like Menu Narration, customizable color elements for the HUD, and Tinnitus-related audio sliders. There’s also color profiles for Deuteranopia, Tritanopia, and Protanopia color blindness options. Custom color blind settings can be applied too.
Subtitles can be increased in size, and tweaked to alter outline, background opacity, text opacity, and more. Camera effects like motion blur and HUD motion have sliders, and you can dial down camera shake and turn off camera sprint camera bobbing.
How I reviewed Battlefield REDSEC
I’ve played around 15 hours of Battlefield REDSEC, predominantly in Quads mode. I’ve also spent around an hour of that time in Gauntlet mode. All of this was on PS5 Pro in Auto (Performance) mode, using a DualSense Edge wireless controller with back buttons assigned to jump and interact.
While playing Battlefield REDSEC, I used an LG Ultragear 27GR93U 4K monitor, as well as a Steel Series Arctis Nova 7 Gen 2 headset. For one play session, I also tested the game on PlayStation Portal, and found Gauntlet mode to work well, and it looked great on the handheld screen.
